Nitrous Help!

[Jenkins]

So I have a NX Plate Kit on a 14A6. Yesterday at my local 1/8th track it seemed like it would spray off the line but then quit. Also it seems you have to really push the pedal hard to get the system to activate. Just wanted to see if anyone had any input or has been through this. Thanks!

 

[hitmix300]

Log the data with your programming device and send it to your tuner?

 

[331coupe]

Does it have a micro switch at the pedal?

 

[Jenkins]

Its not a tune problem its in the nitous set up. My tuner is at the track when i am and always watching over my car. No i dont have a micro switch i am using a TPS sensor (which i believe could be the issue) but my tuner suggested going to a micro switch for simplicity.

 

[Cashbum]

Are you tapped into the brown wire?

 

[Jenkins]

Are you tapped into the brown wire?

What wire is that for?

 

[JUIC3D]

Micro switch ftw. Both will work but you need to make sure you have the correct wire tapped for the tps switch. I remember a thread on here saying exactly which one. It has something to do with the throttle body sending the signal as a rising voltage instead of a falling voltage or something along those lines. Good luck

 

[grnenvy]

I have never liked the TPS switch offered. I would do a Micro switch under the pedal even if the problem isn't in the TPS switch. I'm all about simplicity when it comes to spray.

 

[NoSlo5oH]

What wire is that for?

The brown wire is for the falling edge voltage signal. Most people running a controller or window switch use this wire. You'll have to unplug the factory TPS harness from the throttle body, remove the tape and wire loom to access it. Here's a pic.

http://i1351.photobucket.com/albums/p790/10HUTT/2013 Mustang GT/image_zps88b9c17b.jpg

 

[125oh]

What did you set your tps switch to activate at ? Tapping into the brown wire is falling voltage . The throttle blade closed is 4.3 volts . As it opens voltage drops to 1.2-1.3 at wot . I had a problem with mine . I had it set to spray at too low of a voltage and the car would never hit if . 1.3 is where you wanna be

 

[stang8psi]

so what wire is the correct one for the NX tps switch?

 

[125oh]

so what wire is the correct one for the NX tps switch?

I'm not sure I used a nos window / tps switch it's the brown

 

[SteveG@Lethal]

For the TPS switch, you use the brown wire.

OP, sounds like a TPS single problem, contact NX and i'm sure they can help you out on getting you a new box if that is the issue.

If not, we like to use the WOT switch on the gas pedal. Easy... simple.... and works.

 

[NitrousExpress]

Use the brown wire. May try to retrain the TPS switch. The nitrous isn't supposed to activate until 85% throttle or more in most cases, or in other words, wide open throttle. This could be the issue your having with "pressing the pedal hard"... Let me know if you continue to have issues.

-Garrett

 

[Jenkins]

Use the brown wire. May try to retrain the TPS switch. The nitrous isn't supposed to activate until 85% throttle or more in most cases, or in other words, wide open throttle. This could be the issue your having with "pressing the pedal hard"... Let me know if you continue to have issues.

-Garrett

After playing with it last night when i got home from work i believe we pushed the pedal really hard during the training so to make the system activate you must do the same. I will know for sure this weekend after my next track outing.
Thanks for your help.

 

[kbrolly]

What mods do you have on your car? I have a 75 shot on my car with 4c converter, X-pipe, JLT-CAI, tune, 3.73's and racestars. Went 11.02 @ 122 in Gainesville, do you ever go to Gainesville or SGMP?

 

[NTXRockr]

This is random, but if the tps relearn doesn't fix the problem then check your power and signal wires. I had the exact same situation happen - it would hit hard out of the hole but fall on its face before mid track. I ended up rewiring the entire kit and found that those two wires were installed backward into the relay from factory...basically, the switch was getting 30 amps and the solenoid only 5 amps.

Long story short, the nitrous solenoid doesn't get enough power and doesn't stay open, whereas the fuel solenoid (it only needs 5 amps) stays open and enriches the motor and it falls on its face. On the flip side, the switch and anything wired in series with it are getting 30 amps and can be overloaded...I kept popping 30 and 40 amp fuses and couldn't figure out why, even caused my window switch to literally catch on fire. I'm lucky it didn't burn the car to the ground.

On a side note, I strayed away from the tps/window switch after this incident and used a handheld launch control button. Good thing about it is its on only when you push it (so no worries about nitrous activating when going wot in the window range while trying to pedal the car if it gets loose down track) but bad part is you can activate too low on rpm and get a backfire (and possibly destroy your intake manifold). I run a boss mani so I hit it a split second after launch, so around 2200 or so...best bet it 2500+. I prefer the handheld or microswitch method over tps, but may have to go back to it to run a second stage or use a progressive controller.

 

[NitrousExpress]

This is random, but if the tps relearn doesn't fix the problem then check your power and signal wires. I had the exact same situation happen - it would hit hard out of the hole but fall on its face before mid track. I ended up rewiring the entire kit and found that those two wires were installed backward into the relay from factory...basically, the switch was getting 30 amps and the solenoid only 5 amps.

Long story short, the nitrous solenoid doesn't get enough power and doesn't stay open, whereas the fuel solenoid (it only needs 5 amps) stays open and enriches the motor and it falls on its face. On the flip side, the switch and anything wired in series with it are getting 30 amps and can be overloaded...I kept popping 30 and 40 amp fuses and couldn't figure out why, even caused my window switch to literally catch on fire. I'm lucky it didn't burn the car to the ground.

On a side note, I strayed away from the tps/window switch after this incident and used a handheld launch control button. Good thing about it is its on only when you push it (so no worries about nitrous activating when going wot in the window range while trying to pedal the car if it gets loose down track) but bad part is you can activate too low on rpm and get a backfire (and possibly destroy your intake manifold). I run a boss mani so I hit it a split second after launch, so around 2200 or so...best bet it 2500+. I prefer the handheld or microswitch method over tps, but may have to go back to it to run a second stage or use a progressive controller.

Good info to have.

-Garrett

 

[Jenkins]

This is random, but if the tps relearn doesn't fix the problem then check your power and signal wires. I had the exact same situation happen - it would hit hard out of the hole but fall on its face before mid track. I ended up rewiring the entire kit and found that those two wires were installed backward into the relay from factory...basically, the switch was getting 30 amps and the solenoid only 5 amps.

Long story short, the nitrous solenoid doesn't get enough power and doesn't stay open, whereas the fuel solenoid (it only needs 5 amps) stays open and enriches the motor and it falls on its face. On the flip side, the switch and anything wired in series with it are getting 30 amps and can be overloaded...I kept popping 30 and 40 amp fuses and couldn't figure out why, even caused my window switch to literally catch on fire. I'm lucky it didn't burn the car to the ground.

On a side note, I strayed away from the tps/window switch after this incident and used a handheld launch control button. Good thing about it is its on only when you push it (so no worries about nitrous activating when going wot in the window range while trying to pedal the car if it gets loose down track) but bad part is you can activate too low on rpm and get a backfire (and possibly destroy your intake manifold). I run a boss mani so I hit it a split second after launch, so around 2200 or so...best bet it 2500+. I prefer the handheld or microswitch method over tps, but may have to go back to it to run a second stage or use a progressive controller.

Ok thanks i will have to check that out. Yeah i would like to run a progressive controller so hopefully i can get this to work!

 

[Jenkins]

What mods do you have on your car? I have a 75 shot on my car with 4c converter, X-pipe, JLT-CAI, tune, 3.73's and racestars. Went 11.02 @ 122 in Gainesville, do you ever go to Gainesville or SGMP?

same set up but i have 3.15s and a 3c. havent been to 1/4 mile track yet. been testing at the new ttrack in greencove

ill get back to you on that PM as well havent forgot.