Ok, I read a lot of threads about plugs in here. Seems like the $70 range is what I need to get, but I can't afford this right now. Gotta do other mods first. Now, is it worth switching to the TR6's from stock, or not?
Thanks, g.
Thanks, g.
NKG TR6's: Who's satisfied, who's not?
- Thread starter gchronis
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I had the 12 for stock plugs and went to the NGK TR6 which is one heat range hotter and the car feels much better I would do it again. I don't think I would pay 70-80 for Denso plugs unless somebody could give me a damn good reason why they are so expensive. I bought for SFP which were copper plugs, but De Molet is selling NGK Iridium TR6 plugs which might be better.
I'm voting get them but know that you may need to play with the gap or change them. I saw an 03 L pullied car w/ .040 gap w/ TR6 plugs NOT work perfectly on the dyno last Saturday. If you can't stop misfiring at high RPM (> 6000rpm) drop the gap or try the Denso's.. We also had a 03' w/ NO pulley (50rwhp less and 70rwtq less) misfire REALLY bad w/ stock plugs.. talking misfires at 5500 rpm on up.. TERRIBLE. Don't know WHAT the gap was on that car but it needed to be checked.. ran out of time.
What are you saying? He did have the plugs and it sucked or he didn't have the plugs and it was fine? I have a pulley and the plugs are going in tonight.
I haven't changed pulleys but I'm getting the DenseCharger, and I will put a 3.20 on in a couple of weeks.
Thanks for all the input.
Thanks for all the input.
Were they running chips? Sounds like a bad tune on both of 'em.
plugs??????
Ok folks now I'm confused I heard one guy in this thread say to get the NGK cause they were hotter than stock. My question is I was at the Penne Belle site today looking at thier FAQ's about superchargers and Penne Belle recommends having a plug one level cooler than stock plugs. So what is it hotter or colder than what we got with stock Ford plugs with a super charged application??? But again they were pushing the Denso Iridiums. But none the less they were saying a step cooler
Ok folks now I'm confused I heard one guy in this thread say to get the NGK cause they were hotter than stock. My question is I was at the Penne Belle site today looking at thier FAQ's about superchargers and Penne Belle recommends having a plug one level cooler than stock plugs. So what is it hotter or colder than what we got with stock Ford plugs with a super charged application??? But again they were pushing the Denso Iridiums. But none the less they were saying a step cooler
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I've sent both sets of the Iridiums...NGK & Denso to the Stangnet testing engineer for the Bullitt 2V and another, same, 2 sets, to Jamie Myer to determine the best for the 4V.
This is what I've seen from testing all three (NGK V-Power, NGK iridium, & Denso iridium) in my 5.0.
Apparantly the OHVs seem to like the NGKs better than the OHCs based on mine and customer feedback.
1. All three attained the same plug tip coloring...i.e. all stayed within the same exact heat range.
2. The NGKs were perfectly gapped, both sets. I had to regap some of the Densos. No big deal and doesn't affect performance but is just an observation.
3. Both iridiums delivered a smoother idle.
4. Both iridiums had noticably better "tip in" throttle response.
5. The NGK iridiums were smoother and pulled better at top RPM in my OHV motor than both the other sets.
6. Both iridiums quenched detonation more than the copper plugs during the "hot summer dog days".
7. The stangnet engineer visually noticed the detonation elimination with the iridiums on his dyno graphs which wasn't audible with the car on the road. This was in comparison to the factory platinum plugs. He also noticed more power gains with the Densos.
8. The extra performance I've enjoyed with the NGK iridiums hasn't "tailed off" with them now being in for about 10,000 miles.
9. The magazine test results aren't "BULL"! There is more performance with the iridiums.
10. I'm recommending the NGK iridiums with the OHVs and the Densos with the OHCs.
11. The V-Powers are a great plug but it's the detonation aspect that makes the iridiums rule. If we could still get Sunoco 101 it probably wouldn't matter. But we can't!
12. The only variable I haven't tested is the TR-6, one step colder, and copper, against the iridiums. If anyone tests these 2 please let me know the results, as the TR-6 may also then quench detonation as long as they don't load up.
It'll be interesting to see which ones Dr. Meyer prefers.
This is what I've seen from testing all three (NGK V-Power, NGK iridium, & Denso iridium) in my 5.0.
Apparantly the OHVs seem to like the NGKs better than the OHCs based on mine and customer feedback.
1. All three attained the same plug tip coloring...i.e. all stayed within the same exact heat range.
2. The NGKs were perfectly gapped, both sets. I had to regap some of the Densos. No big deal and doesn't affect performance but is just an observation.
3. Both iridiums delivered a smoother idle.
4. Both iridiums had noticably better "tip in" throttle response.
5. The NGK iridiums were smoother and pulled better at top RPM in my OHV motor than both the other sets.
6. Both iridiums quenched detonation more than the copper plugs during the "hot summer dog days".
7. The stangnet engineer visually noticed the detonation elimination with the iridiums on his dyno graphs which wasn't audible with the car on the road. This was in comparison to the factory platinum plugs. He also noticed more power gains with the Densos.
8. The extra performance I've enjoyed with the NGK iridiums hasn't "tailed off" with them now being in for about 10,000 miles.
9. The magazine test results aren't "BULL"! There is more performance with the iridiums.
10. I'm recommending the NGK iridiums with the OHVs and the Densos with the OHCs.
11. The V-Powers are a great plug but it's the detonation aspect that makes the iridiums rule. If we could still get Sunoco 101 it probably wouldn't matter. But we can't!
12. The only variable I haven't tested is the TR-6, one step colder, and copper, against the iridiums. If anyone tests these 2 please let me know the results, as the TR-6 may also then quench detonation as long as they don't load up.
It'll be interesting to see which ones Dr. Meyer prefers.
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The TR6's are colder than stock. 1.5 heat range I believe. If you have any questions or need them you can call me at the shop on Monday and I'll be glad to help you.
We have had this discussion about spark plugs and have determined that the newer the build the hotter the plug. My car was one of the first and had AGSF12FM1 plugs stock which is 1 range colder then NGK TR6. Others have AGSF22FM1 which are the same heat range as NGK TR6, and AGSF32FM1 which are 1 heat range hotter then TR-6 plugs. So when we are talking about are the replacement plugs the same heat range as stock you really need to define what you are calling stock.
Take a look at this thread.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=21180&highlight=AGSF12FM1
I screwed up thank you mike69440 the 12 is one range colder then the TR-6.
Take a look at this thread.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=21180&highlight=AGSF12FM1
I screwed up thank you mike69440 the 12 is one range colder then the TR-6.
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stock plugs
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Help, please define heat range numbering
Could someone who is knowledible on the subject please define the heat range numbering in a table and compare the factory Platinium plugs, the NKG Copper, NKG V-tip, and the NKG And denso Iridium plugs.
Is the "12" factory plug hotter or colder than the "22"? Is the 22"
cooler or hotter than the "32"
Is a Deso IT20 hotter than a IT22?
Etc.
Thanks a lot for any help.
Could someone who is knowledible on the subject please define the heat range numbering in a table and compare the factory Platinium plugs, the NKG Copper, NKG V-tip, and the NKG And denso Iridium plugs.
Is the "12" factory plug hotter or colder than the "22"? Is the 22"
cooler or hotter than the "32"
Is a Deso IT20 hotter than a IT22?
Etc.
Thanks a lot for any help.
Re: Help, please define heat range numbering
I don't know about the Denso's. The factory plugs the lower the number the colder the plug so 12 is colder then 22 which is colder then 32. On the NGK the higher the number the colder the plug TR-6 is colder then a TR-5 or TR-55. The 22 factory plug is equivalent to a TR-6 plug and 32 is equivalent to a TR-5.
I don't know about the Denso's. The factory plugs the lower the number the colder the plug so 12 is colder then 22 which is colder then 32. On the NGK the higher the number the colder the plug TR-6 is colder then a TR-5 or TR-55. The 22 factory plug is equivalent to a TR-6 plug and 32 is equivalent to a TR-5.
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As you go up, numerically, the Densos go colder.
i.e. IT16s are one heat range hotter than IT20s.
As you go up, numerically, the NGKs also go colder.
i.e. TR 55s are one heat heat range hotter than TR-6s.
With the NGKs to designate iridium you add an "IX" to the factory number.
TR55IX are the NGK iridiums in the stock heat range.
i.e. IT16s are one heat range hotter than IT20s.
As you go up, numerically, the NGKs also go colder.
i.e. TR 55s are one heat heat range hotter than TR-6s.
With the NGKs to designate iridium you add an "IX" to the factory number.
TR55IX are the NGK iridiums in the stock heat range.
I have always known it is the higher the number the colder the plug. I have never seen where the higher number is hotter.
Also just a little tidbit, the good thing about the factory plugs is that they last alot longer than most aftermarket plugs will. Let me state that this is from my experience.
Also just a little tidbit, the good thing about the factory plugs is that they last alot longer than most aftermarket plugs will. Let me state that this is from my experience.
I installed Tr-6's when I had my '03 in the shop for installation of the UPR Cold Air Kit. I asked that they gap them @ .040. Guess what...they automatically gap'd them @ .035 because that is what they usually set them at. On the drive home I immediately noticed some additional rumble and popping when slowing under compression.....(I have total Bassani exhaust & X w/cats). I did not have that happening before I installed the new plugs. Since I had the Cold air kit and plugs both installed at the same time I was not sure if the plugs were the culprit? Since then I have noticed when I start the '03 cold the throttle is hesitating and/or loading up. This doesn't happen when the engine is warmed up. I assume the plugs are my problem? What comments do you have? I have not changed the pulley so maybe I should go back to the original plugs?
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I'd spin the factory plugs back in to eliminate the "new plug" variable all together rather than regap them. If it still does it it's the CAI.
Try .050 if it isn't the CAI as a wider gap will usually help with idle, and or a hesitation.
What gap do they call for stock?
NGK specifies .050 on the TR-6s.
I always go with what NGK calls for.
I almost forgot....a leak at the meter with a CAI will cause your symptons.
Try .050 if it isn't the CAI as a wider gap will usually help with idle, and or a hesitation.
What gap do they call for stock?
NGK specifies .050 on the TR-6s.
I always go with what NGK calls for.
I almost forgot....a leak at the meter with a CAI will cause your symptons.
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For clarification, all three 03 Cobras were on the dyno for the purpose of getting a custom tune. The 2 Cobra's w/ pulleys did have NGK TR6 plugs that were recommended by and purchased through SFPH and the gap was set to .040. What heat range I don't know.. The misfires that were heard and visibly seen as intermittent puffs of black smoke (unburned fuel) at the tailpipes during the dyno pulls were almost always evidenced on the dyno graph as well as a rough area/dip in the curve. The 03' WITHOUT the pulley and without the plugs (had factory plugs) actually misfired the worst. On all three cars you could even hear SOME occasional misfiring (always heard at the tailpipes) when at constant part throttle (3000rpm) which was done to warm the cars properly before the pulls.. talking super critical ear here.
And in general, colder plugs and smaller gaps will yield poorer starting and poorer cold driving manners.. oh well, we have 460rwhp to play with so thats ok with me
Bottom line is I do not know that any of us have found the best cold starting/driving plug that yields zero misfires. In the end that is what we are searching for. It COULD be the NGK's that SFPH recommends just gapped down to .035 or even .030.. it could be the Denso's at .040.. dunno yet but $30 - $100 to experiement and find out is not a huge hurdle. Anyone going to the dyno soon care to take a crack? Take a set of Denso's and NGK's to the dyno, gap each as wide as possible w/o misfires, then try them each on different days cold..
Jerry
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Wow, I'm concerned about all these missfires.
Based on the Stangnet engineers findings so far I'd have to go with the Denso iridiums. He noticed another 4 hp over the NGKs with both quenching detonation.
Detonation with a blower motor is unacceptable!
Either iridiums should be spun in.
I'll let you guys know or we'll see what Dr. Meyer finds with his 03'.
That will be 2 4.6 A-B comparisons.
I can state for a fact that after 150,000 miles on my Mustang that these will help with any detonation.
I sent one customer Denso IT20s and IT22s and will follow up with him to see if he's tested them yet.
Based on the Stangnet engineers findings so far I'd have to go with the Denso iridiums. He noticed another 4 hp over the NGKs with both quenching detonation.
Detonation with a blower motor is unacceptable!
Either iridiums should be spun in.
I'll let you guys know or we'll see what Dr. Meyer finds with his 03'.
That will be 2 4.6 A-B comparisons.
I can state for a fact that after 150,000 miles on my Mustang that these will help with any detonation.
I sent one customer Denso IT20s and IT22s and will follow up with him to see if he's tested them yet.
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