No Pressure at the Driver's Rear Caliper and ABS light on

[ospreyfe]

Ok so I just bought a CSVT and I noticed a noise/rattling from the rear drivers side. After some investigating I found the caliper looked to be frozen and had ground the pads into the rotor. The inside pad look like it had been weld on to the caliper piston! So I installed new caliper, rotor and pads. I went to bleed the system and nothing, I even put my pump on there and still nothing, I even disconnected the rubber line from the hard line and put the pump on the hard line and still got nothing! I don't know where to go from here, but it does look like getting to the ABS module under the brake booster is going to be fun! Also my passenger side rear works as advertised. I did also realize that my e-brake cable on the driver side is locked up, so when I apply the e-brake it does not release the tension, so I will be getting a new one,. Does anyone know where I can get a return spring, the one on the drivers side is missing. Any help would be great. ***Update*** SO I took the car for a drive and I tried to brake hard to make sure that the brakes were ok for stopping and now the ABS light is on! So what do I do next. From what I can find so far it sounds like a bad ABS module(HCU). If I got another ABS module do I still need to take it to the dealer to have it bled or can I bleed it?

 

[Ryan]

I'd start with replacing the hoses and see where that takes ya.

 

[ospreyfe]

Well now the light goes out after driving. But returns after restarting the car but again goes away after driving. When I was looking over the system I ended up breaking the fuse to the abs and had to get a new one. So while I was at the parts store I had them read the abs codes. There was 5! The first being C1095 - ABS Hydraulic Pump Motor Circuit Failure - and codes C1145, C1155, C1165, C1175 - Wheel Speed Sensor Input Circuit Failure. I cleaned the rear sensors while I was changing pads but would that have anything to do with the codes? Also should I pay Ford $100 to flush and bleed my brakes or should I troubleshoot my abs module and then take it to ford if I replace the module? Since I am sure they will have to bleed it, or can I bleed the system after I change the module?

 

[cobracloud]

bleed it out yourself-clear the codes, and drive it and see what code sets first

 

[ospreyfe]

Well I wish I could bleed it! Can't get fluid out of the drivers rear caliper or hard line! I did take it the shop on base and used their Snap-on Modis scan tool and there were no codes present. It also has the option to do a brake bleed function and pump test however nothing happened when I selected either one! Also the abs light now goes out along with all the other lights when you turn the key to on or start the car! I still am looking at taking it to ford to have them do a brake flush and hopefully they will be able to bleed the rear brake. I just have a hard spending a $100 on something I should be able to do!

 

[cobracloud]

have you bench bled the master cylinder ?

 

[ospreyfe]

I never removed the master cylinder so I never thought to bench bleed it. I did end up bleeding the front brakes until the fluid that went into the master cylinder was as clean coming out. I did that because the other day on the way home from work it seemed like the brakes were dragging and slowing down the car and by the time I got home from a 3 mile drive the brakes were very hot. But since I flushed the front brakes with clear fluid they are working fine. But just can't bleed the drivers rear caliper.