open track engine choices

MGC

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OP - is this for an AI or AIX car? Or just a reliable open-track engine? Reason I ask is because if it's AI you would have to be careful not to make too much power otherwise you'd be bumped into the AIX class which you would then be outgunned.
 

BlackStripes

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You forgot expensive, and upgrading it will be more than the LS1 and way more than the SBF. You can build a nice 420 HP SBF engine that will live a long time for well under $4k (especially if you buy some parts used).

The price for an LS will vary as you can buy a take out and modify it or start from scratch. I bought an LS1 with spun rod bearings and it came ECU, harness and the intake and oil pan I needed. I rebuilt it for track use and have about $4k into it total, and that was finding deals on parts along the way. It is overkill but it is bulletproof. On top of that is new accessories, a starter, all new sensors, an accusump, and other odds and ends, and you are talking around $5k.

Don't get me wrong the Coyote is a nice engine, but if you a building a track car it is probably not the best choice.

The coyote is not really any lighter than a SBF or a LSX with an alumnium block. They are all about 450 lbs.

Well, not sure if the car we are talking about is a street car, track car or all out race car. I said new for new prices of an LSX or Coyote are basically the same. Weights are also basically the same, I still think that the Coyote is 15lbs lighter :-D

Actually you need to consider other things when you put an LSX in a Mustang from a decent K-member, bellhousing, headers and a lot of small crap, specially in a street car. The coyote bolts to existent bellhousing and the headers are $500. The result: 400 rwhp as reliable as it can be.

If it is a Fox, yeah, SBF will be a lot easier and cheaper!
 

encasedmetal

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OP - is this for an AI or AIX car? Or just a reliable open-track engine? Reason I ask is because if it's AI you would have to be careful not to make too much power otherwise you'd be bumped into the AIX class which you would then be outgunned.

just open track- no class restrictions
 

encasedmetal

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Well, not sure if the car we are talking about is a street car, track car or all out race car. I said new for new prices of an LSX or Coyote are basically the same. Weights are also basically the same, I still think that the Coyote is 15lbs lighter :-D

Actually you need to consider other things when you put an LSX in a Mustang from a decent K-member, bellhousing, headers and a lot of small crap, specially in a street car. The coyote bolts to existent bellhousing and the headers are $500. The result: 400 rwhp as reliable as it can be.

If it is a Fox, yeah, SBF will be a lot easier and cheaper!

I haven't decided what body I'm gonna do yet- just thinking ahead about engine combos
 

99COBRA2881

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What? No N/A mod motor option. (not coyote)

Buy used. Mod motors are plentiful and there are a shit ton of parts out there for them now.
 

BlackBolt9

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Thats fine, but don't come crying to me when you want to do heads and cam(s) because you are getting forcibly passed out there :)

Yup, AI champion two years running... Coyote powered, good try though ;-)

You just described an LS motor. Well done!:lol1:

Except the reliable on track part :p What was that about oiling issues? :poke:

OP - is this for an AI or AIX car? Or just a reliable open-track engine? Reason I ask is because if it's AI you would have to be careful not to make too much power otherwise you'd be bumped into the AIX class which you would then be outgunned.

Can't run a GM engine in a Ford car or a Ford engine in a GM car according to AI rules. So if he put a LSx in a Mustang he'd be stuck running AIX no matter what.

What? No N/A mod motor option. (not coyote)

Buy used. Mod motors are plentiful and there are a shit ton of parts out there for them now.

If going used and trying to go cheap sure but the NA mod motors I've seen that dyno similar to a stock Coyote had heads, cams, intake, and the 5.0L stroker kit. That's not really any cheaper to make the same power, and I've heard rumors that the 5.0L stroker kits aren't proving to be as reliable when spun to higher RPM's for long periods.
 
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99COBRA2881

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Stock forged crank. Resleeved to 5.0l, spin it to 7k all day. With no rules package to build "to" why not! haha

Edited to include "to"
 
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brkntrxn

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If you are Open Tracking, just run the cheapest car you can until you get experience. Then figure out a class to target and build something for that class. Let the rules of the class depict what you get. Otherwise you are going to end up with a mixmatched car you love, but one that you can ONLY open track because it does not fit nicely within a ruleset.

As for choices: the LS3 is the one with the known oiling issues. Most all of the rest (LS1, LS2 and LS6s) are bullet proof. LS6 for Chevy is my choice, or 331 SBF or 4.6 DOHC for Ford is my other choice.


-Kevin
 

N/Angel

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I'd go with a built N/A Coyote. I've been debating between a big bore 5.0 Mod Motor with heads, cams and intake and a built coyote for a while now and the horsepower advantage out of the coyote is what is making me lean towards the newer engine even though I have a crap load of parts for the 4.6 based mod motor.
then again last week we installed a cam into a L99 Camaro and with our custom dyno tune this thing runs awesome! same power level and almost as much torque as my Eaton/Stroker to! I have to admit I briefly thought about this engine swap into my Mustang but I don't think I could live with a Chevy engine in a Ford, lol!
 

gcassidy

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I'd also go with a Coyote engine, but only because it sounds cool and smacks of the old days and racers like Foyt, Andretti, etc. Not a very rational reason to choose, but that's never been my strong point.
 

TXPD

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its important to know the short and long term goals that you have for the car in question in order to make a proper suggestion.

i will say this. horsepower is less relavant to having a good time at the race track and also learning than most people realize. road course driving is about the corners and not the straights. horsepower effect that equation on approach and exit for sure. braking and proper use of the throttle on exit.

the faster you go, the less forgiving your car will be to your mistakes and the higher the price will be for those mistakes.

i have enough power with the 5.0L cammer engine that the car can be a handful under hard braking and can spin under too much power too early on exit as well.
 

suprsnke

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Mach heads

98 cobra, race American Iron in the Northeast region. Recently spun a main bearing on a mostly stock 98 4v. Im picking up the entire top end from an 03 Mach 1 (heads, lower and upper intake, valve covers, engine wiring harness and computer). Does anyone know of a link to any threads documenting this type of swap. My crank and 4 rods were wiped out so I located a donor 99 cobra motor for the crank and rods. I'll be using new forged flat top pistons for 10.75:1 compression. Mostly concerned with the use of the Mach heads though. Thanks

Ray Prato
 

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