P1SC help please!!!

[dteal23]

just got a p1sc suuuuper cheap from my friend. i only have the head unit and bracket.

i know i need injectors, pump, some pipes and a tune. he said it has a #10 pulley (im not sure). anyway CAN I RUN THIS THING WITHOUT THE intercooler? should i change the pulley to #8?

wat else do i need or wat else should i do??? any suggestions wil help
thanks.

 

[-Chip-]

1.) 42lbs injectors, 255lph intank +Boost-A-Pump, MAF (Granatelli, Lightning, or a MAF Extender), and the procharger plumbing. I'd also recommend a blow off valve. Best setup for you would be to use it as a blow through set-up.
2.) Yes you can run it without the intercooler but remember summertime is coming up the right hand assistant to detonation. I would recommend the intercooler, but you can certainly run it until you get one.

3.) Lastly, GET IT TUNED. I will not stress that enough nor will you find anyone to disagree how important that will be. You will be safe on a 10lbs level with a GOOD TUNE.

 

[dteal23]

1.) 42lbs injectors, 255lph intank +Boost-A-Pump, MAF (Granatelli, Lightning, or a MAF Extender), and the procharger plumbing. I'd also recommend a blow off valve. Best setup for you would be to use it as a blow through set-up.
2.) Yes you can run it without the intercooler but remember summertime is coming up the right hand assistant to detonation. I would recommend the intercooler, but you can certainly run it until you get one.

3.) Lastly, GET IT TUNED. I will not stress that enough nor will you find anyone to disagree how important that will be. You will be safe on a 10lbs level with a GOOD TUNE.

can i run it at 10# with out one safely for right now? and wat does the blow thru or by pass stuff do :shrug: wat is your opinion on that boost cooler from snow performance?

and where to get this stuff CHEAP?

thaks chip or anyone else ;-)

 

[-Chip-]

can i run it at 10# with out one safely for right now? and wat does the blow thru or by pass stuff do :shrug: wat is your opinion on that boost cooler from snow performance?

and where to get this stuff CHEAP?

thaks chip or anyone else ;-)

I would never EVEr recommend running any forced induction system without proper tuning. Besides once you get your new maf and injectors they will have to be calibrated, so you might as well go ahead and get it tuned once you bolt it all up. A draw through set up is most common on basic bolt on cars with forced induction. There the most efficient types when it comes to 550rwhp and below. Basically it has to do with the placement of the MAF Sensor. I won't get into details yet unless you really to know about the blow through vs draw through set-ups. You want to know about the blow through valve. Let me see if I can clarify exactly what a blow through valve is and does.

The Bypass Valve
Compressor surge is a problem that affects most superchargers and develops when the supercharger is creating boost, but the throttle shaft is closed. Although not a problem on some low-boost (5psi or less) applications This condition can occur under deceleration or while shifting between gears, and can cause the car to sputter and chirp. Under surge, the compressor forces air into the closed throttle body until the pressure inside the throttle body is higher than the amount of pressure being created by the supercharger, and the air tries to pop backward through the supercharger. At that point, pressure is released inside the throttle body and the compressor forces air back through the supercharger and into the throttle body, which again has nowhere to go, and the process repeats. While surge normally is not highly damaging to the engine it is certainly annoying and can cause damage with time. To eliminate these problems under surge conditions, a bypass valve (sometimes called an anti-surge valve) is used to release the excess pressure. The bypass valve is actuated using intake manifold vaccuum, which opens the vent valve and releases pressure in the air-intake. Air is either released into the atmoshpere (blowoff valve) or recirculated back through the supercharger compressor (bypass valve).


I hope that clarifies some. I also want to stress the importance of the intercooler as well, as you may have plans to not run one right away.

The Intercooler / Aftercooler

Some supercharger systems include an aftercooler (more commonly called an "intercooler"). The purpose of the intercooler is to remove heat from the air to create a cooler, more densely packed air charge - more on this in Let's Talk Intercoolers, and Aftercooling - Vortech Style. Although the intercooler is not necessary on most street applications, its performance becomes increasingly important on higher-output systems (with correspondingly higher charge temperatures). The intercooler can be compared to a automotive radiator, only instead of cooling water or coolant, the intercooler cools the air. Air-to-air intercoolers force the air through a large air-cooled finned and fluted core, normally mounted in front of the car's radiator. Air-to-water intercoolers force the incoming air charge through a much smaller finned and fluted heat exchanger that is cooled by water. The water is, in turn, cooled by a compact radiator that mounts next to the stock radiator.

The two main purposes of the intercooler are 1. to allow more boost on a given octane level of fuel without detonation, and 2. to help create more power by condensing the air charge. Thus, intercoolers are very common on high boost applications (10+ psi) and on roots-style superchargers, where discharge temperatures are higher than normal. Most street supercharger systems (5-8psi) do not come standard with intercoolers.

I hope you found this informative and anything else I can do please let me know.


Chip

 

[LS1PUSSOUT]

I may be in the same boat soon where can you buy the pipes and everything else you need at??

 

[dteal23]

yo thanks chip. when i meant can i run it at ten pounds with out it . i was refering to an intercooler or aftercooler at 10#? i know i gotta get a tune. man i wouldnt even risk my motor motor without one.

u kno where to get some of these parts for cheap?? thanks again man

 

[mustanginky]

you can get tubing off ebay for pretty cheap. usually they are polished.

i would recommend the intercooler myself, although it can be done without

and NEVER, EVER run a supercharged car w/o a GOOD DYNO TUNE FROM A GOOD DYNO TUNER!

 

[dteal23]

Yo CHIP, im thinking bout the vortech air/water. but i want to know the PERFORMANCE DIFFERENCE between prochargers 2 & 3 core intercoolers?? the price diffrerence is 300.00.

all info from anyone is appreciated

 

[no_slow_svt]

the 10 psi pulley may not be 10 psi on your car. with full exhaust like you have you may not see all 10 psi.
i would stay with the 10psi pulley I also would spend the extra money to get the intercooler in there.
you will get more power out of the supercharger and it will be safer.
J

 

[-Chip-]

Yo CHIP, im thinking bout the vortech air/water. but i want to know the PERFORMANCE DIFFERENCE between prochargers 2 & 3 core intercoolers?? the price diffrerence is 300.00.

all info from anyone is appreciated

To keep it elementary. The 3 core sheetmetal intercooler allows clolder cooling due to type of metal and larger volume capacity to allow a larger range of more efficient cooling. The 300 dollars is minute to the benefit you will receive by the upgrade. Do it now. If you want to know more about air to water, I can provide that as well.

 

[dteal23]

thanks man 3 hundred is not a big deal. but wat would u perfer the vortech air to water or th procharger 3 core?

 

[dteal23]

the 10 psi pulley may not be 10 psi on your car. with full exhaust like you have you may not see all 10 psi.
i would stay with the 10psi pulley I also would spend the extra money to get the intercooler in there.
you will get more power out of the supercharger and it will be safer.
J

can u explain to me how that works, that was my next question.
full exhaust= less boost. i want about 10 wat to do???

 

[mustanginky]

boost= backpressure, ya know. thats why exhaust will lower your boost, but its not a bad thing...

 

[no_slow_svt]

can u explain to me how that works, that was my next question.
full exhaust= less boost. i want about 10 wat to do???

you will be putting down just as much or more than a 10 psi set up
only you are getting rid of the exhaust quicker, so it has less time to build up in the manifold.


im running a 3.70 pulley on my 99 and i see 7psi at the manifold. with full exhaust.
procharger says the 4.10 pulley is a 6psi pulley and the 4.00 is a 10psi pulley.
so technicaly my 3.70 pulley should be putting out around 12-15psi right?
well it doesnt.
im not fully tuned yet but its already putting down some good numbers.
J

 

[dteal23]

you will be putting down just as much or more than a 10 psi set up
only you are getting rid of the exhaust quicker, so it has less time to build up in the manifold.


im running a 3.70 pulley on my 99 and i see 7psi at the manifold. with full exhaust.
procharger says the 4.10 pulley is a 6psi pulley and the 4.00 is a 10psi pulley.
so technicaly my 3.70 pulley should be putting out around 12-15psi right?
well it doesnt.
im not fully tuned yet but its already putting down some good numbers.
J

i gotya, i got my stock bottom end wat pulley u recommend? thinkin bout adding that boost cooler from snow performance too. wats ur opinion?

 

[no_slow_svt]

i think you should stay with that 10 psi pulley and a good tune.
if you go any smaller it may not be enough.
but its really gonna be up to you at that point.
maybe you should wait on the snow cooler too because ive heard they are giving like 75hp gains on centi blowers. which is gonna put you real high on the hp scale for a stock bottem end
but its your bottem end do what you want..... and just because you have 450+rwhp doesnt mean you have to use all of it all the time. and your engine life will reflect that


i personally didnt want the 3.70 pulley that mine came with because i though it would be like 12-15 psi which is way to much for me.
but after i put it on and only had 6-7psi and 424 rwhp i was happy i went that low.
when im fully tuned i should have about 460rwhp
which is just a touch over what i was hoping for when i bolted the procharger up.

 

[dteal23]

i dont want to put on the blower then blow it up. i guess ill do the 10# pulley and get a good tune. wat r ur mods?

 

[guarnibl]

#1 -- I had a P1sc on a 2003 Mustang GT. It made 390 rwhp on 10 lb of boost with 12 degrees of timing. Car had stock engine, 4.10 gears, and an offroad MAC H-Pipe with flowmasters.

Here's what I needed (and what you'll want to get if you really want this to shine).

#1 - 42 lb injectors [$300], 10lb pulley Don't go higher. I saw 12lb of boost on my car with this pulley. You'll see less because of your exhaust.
#2 - All the right tubing and 3-core intercooler. Make sure you remove the bumper to install the intercooler! Otherwise it'll take you twice as long (yes, it will). [Not sure how much an intercooler is -- probably a grand or so]
#3 - Be prepared to custom fit things! The prochargers don't quite go on our cars perfectly... you have to cut tubing, all that jazz.
#4 - Kenne Bell Boost a Pump. [$240]
#5 - Dual cobra pumps and tank. That walbro is a piece of shit that they give you. It's good for return style cars but not for ours. [~$800 shipped]
#6 - SCT BigAir 90 MAF [$200 something I believe]
#7 - Tune + Chip [$300 for the chip, $200 for the tune from a good tuner]
#8 - I used what came with the P1sc in regards to the blow off / blow through setup.

Also---

As long as you have a good tune, you should be fine up to 450 rwhp. Just don't beat too hard on it if you have the stock rotating assembly.

The water meth kit is a piece of crap IMO. Yea it works if they send you the right shit. I don't trust it... I know how it works and I realize it WILL work if used properly, but I just don't trust it. I don't think it's worth the money unless you're only using it for the track.

Edit: Guess it still shows I have the P1SC -- I sold it to my friend. New engine setup is having a 302 stroker in it with a Kb 2.2L, stage 2 comp cams, viper spec t-56, custom heads, patriot valve/valves springs, about a million other things... hoping to push about 700 rwhp before nitrous.

 

[no_slow_svt]

if your not going over 450 rwhp you should be fine with just the cobra pumps. with no boost a pump.

everything else from the above post sounds right though

J

 

[guarnibl]

Yep, BAP wasn't needed. In fact after I got the cobra pumps and tank I had it set all the way to off. Without that BAP you're still looking around $3,000 to get your procharger running right though. Mainly because you don't have any of the plumbing or the intercooler.