P2195 and P2197

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So a little back story:

installed a Whipple 2.9 a month ago (car has 2300 miles on it, it is a 2012 GT500), no issues at all for a few weeks driving on it. Have a set of long tube headers installed but dynatech provided the incorrect O2 extenders, so ended up having the factory o2's extended by soldering in longer wire and wrapping it.

I drive the car around for 3 days no issues at all... park the car for 2 weeks.

I go to fire the car up and it starts to have a real choppy idle, and starts to blow black smoke. No codes yet.

Weird, so I figure what the heck, let's check all of the connections, maf looks good, pcv's look good... Nothing seems to be out of the ordinary.

I pull the plugs, they all look fine, inspect all of the coils, all look good.

Fire up the car again, another smoke show, so I let it idle a bit and finally a CEL kicks on and the idle returns to normal and no more black smoke.

P2195 and P2197, which basically mean O2 sensor stuck with a lean bias.

I take out my SCT and laptop and data log it, both O2's are reporting a value of 1.999.

So now all that is left is a vacuum leak test which I will be doing here in about 15 minutes. Does anyone else feel the extension we built for the o2's is the culprit or am I overlooking something?
 

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what was the problem, I'm having the same issues

if you extended your o2 sensors when doing headers, that was the issue. the stock widebands in the 2011+'s cannot be cut/extended. You'll either need to find decent 6 pin extenders, which still suck, or run the Raptor o2 sensor, which is part # DY-1184, and theyre dirt cheap from rockauto.com
 

shelbyman1

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if you extended your o2 sensors when doing headers, that was the issue. the stock widebands in the 2011+'s cannot be cut/extended. You'll either need to find decent 6 pin extenders, which still suck, or run the Raptor o2 sensor, which is part # DY-1184, and theyre dirt cheap from rockauto.com

I know that, the issue was that I was running the raptor o2 sensors which people on here say work, yeah, they work BRIEFLY. they are NOT the correct sensor and WILL go bad fast.

I went back to stock o2s and re-routed my harness. all fixed
 

99cobraUgotbit

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I know that, the issue was that I was running the raptor o2 sensors which people on here say work, yeah, they work BRIEFLY. they are NOT the correct sensor and WILL go bad fast.

I went back to stock o2s and re-routed my harness. all fixed

That's nice to know that they can be rerouted to work with the stock 02's. So far so good on my raptor 02's. Any stock sensor can foul out and go bad.

The raptor 02's are labeled for a 5.4L motor.
 
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5.4 motor has nothing to do with it, different pressure, completely incorrect sensor.

It's the same sensor. Different length wire. They are universal. Ever notice how companies like innovate etc all use the same bosche wide band for gauge kits etc.

You just happen to of received a bum sensor.
 

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It's the same sensor. Different length wire. They are universal. Ever notice how companies like innovate etc all use the same bosch wide band for gauge kits etc.
You just happen to of received a bum sensor.

He said both sensors are showing 1.9v...

A sensor is a sensor, they're all the same (EGO vs. EGO and UEGO vs. UEGO).

There used to be two sensors made. The most common uses platinum, I can't remember what the 'other' less common sensor used. (I believe it was exclusive to Toyota).

A O2 sensor senses OXYGEN, as a indication of Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) or mixture. A abundnace of oxygen indicates lean, a lack of oxygen indicates rich which is why a misfire (not burning the OXYGEN in the cylinder) or a exh. leak (letting OXYGEN into the exh. stream) shows up as a lean condition, which makes the PCM try to drive the system rich.

They produce between 0v and 1v.

The fact that the OP is showing 1.9v tells me that either the sensor is a UEGO Sensor (aka "Wideband", used on later EEC systems) or the sensor is bad. I have seen O2 sensors produces >1v when the shield that allows outside/ambient oxygen to be sampled gets clogged (grease/dirt/mud/undercoating/etc.) and does not allow the exh. O2 to be compared to the ambient O2. You didn't by chance put shrink tubing over the sensor body, did you?

Always remember THIS: The sensor value you see with a scanner is the voltage the scanner THINKS is being produced, which may or may not be accurate.

Pin into the sensor at the harness and take a true voltage reading and ALWAYS use the sensor ground wire, not a common ground (like a engine ground, sensor body ground, etc.).

The OP also doesn't say if he's testing a EGO (4-wire) sensor or a UEGO (5-wire) sensor.

A UEGO sensor is completely different. I don't know this for sure but I was told they actually sense HYDROCARBONS (HC) rather than Oxygen (O2).

Also: Lengthening ANY wire in a Electronic Engine Control system has risks. The wire lengths are all important because semi-conductors emit and are affected by RFI. Lengthening a harness wire can create a 'antenna effect' and cause a myriad of problems.


Phill
 

99cobraUgotbit

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He said both sensors are showing 1.9v...

A sensor is a sensor, they're all the same (EGO vs. EGO and UEGO vs. UEGO).

There used to be two sensors made. The most common uses platinum, I can't remember what the 'other' less common sensor used. (I believe it was exclusive to Toyota).

A O2 sensor senses OXYGEN, as a indication of Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) or mixture. A abundnace of oxygen indicates lean, a lack of oxygen indicates rich which is why a misfire (not burning the OXYGEN in the cylinder) or a exh. leak (letting OXYGEN into the exh. stream) shows up as a lean condition, which makes the PCM try to drive the system rich.

They produce between 0v and 1v.

The fact that the OP is showing 1.9v tells me that either the sensor is a UEGO Sensor (aka "Wideband", used on later EEC systems) or the sensor is bad. I have seen O2 sensors produces >1v when the shield that allows outside/ambient oxygen to be sampled gets clogged (grease/dirt/mud/undercoating/etc.) and does not allow the exh. O2 to be compared to the ambient O2. You didn't by chance put shrink tubing over the sensor body, did you?

Always remember THIS: The sensor value you see with a scanner is the voltage the scanner THINKS is being produced, which may or may not be accurate.

Pin into the sensor at the harness and take a true voltage reading and ALWAYS use the sensor ground wire, not a common ground (like a engine ground, sensor body ground, etc.).

The OP also doesn't say if he's testing a EGO (4-wire) sensor or a UEGO (5-wire) sensor.

A UEGO sensor is completely different. I don't know this for sure but I was told they actually sense HYDROCARBONS (HC) rather than Oxygen (O2).

Also: Lengthening ANY wire in a Electronic Engine Control system has risks. The wire lengths are all important because semi-conductors emit and are affected by RFI. Lengthening a harness wire can create a 'antenna effect' and cause a myriad of problems.


Phill

That makes sense to me. I actually extended my stock 02's and they worked for awhile. But one went bad so switched to Raptors. Could have been worse and glad I switched.

Op stated he used stock 02's and rerouted the harnesses which I did not think was possible due to the manifolds being so close to engine bay and the stock ones are short. Nice to know it can be done. All good info here:beer:
 

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5.4 motor has nothing to do with it, different pressure, completely incorrect sensor.

What part of the raptor o2 is the same sensor as the 2011+ gt500 is not getting through to you. Only difference is longer wiring.

Now if you we're trying to use a wideband sensor on a 07-10 gt500 then there's your problem. They don't use them.
 

shelbyman1

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What part of the raptor o2 is the same sensor as the 2011+ gt500 is not getting through to you. Only difference is longer wiring.

Now if you we're trying to use a wideband sensor on a 07-10 gt500 then there's your problem. They don't use them.


theres more to an o2 than looks and wires! they dont read the same!!!!! ask lund or revan!
 

99cobraUgotbit

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Shelbyman1- just cause your sensor went bad doesn't mean that they are not made for the the GT500. Any sensor can foul out at anytime. It happens.

Looks like there's conflicting stories cause Van told me they work and told you they didn't? I had a conversation with him and not once did he tell me not to get them. So far.... Ours are working just fine. I have pulled ZERO codes since I put the Raptors in 2 months ago!!! So how are they completely different? But still work???
 
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shelbyman1

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Shelbyman1- just cause your sensor went bad doesn't mean that they are not made for the the GT500. Any sensor can foul out at anytime. It happens.

Looks like there's conflicting stories cause Van told me they work and told you they didn't? I had a conversation with him and not once did he tell me not to get them. So far.... Ours are working just fine. I have pulled ZERO codes since I put the Raptors in 2 months ago!!! So how are they completely different? But still work???

ask van if he sells them anymore!
ask LUND if he wants to tune a car with them!
ask Evolution if they use them!

dont always believe the things u read online. some people do run them and have luck... gotta love internet forums...
 
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If you compare both sensors, DY-1252 and DY-1184 and look at their engineering part #'s, they are the same sensor.

Van is the one who sold me my DY-1184, Raptor o2's. Lund is the guy who tuned my car on them originally too. So far after 3000+ miles with them, I have no issues. Want to know why? It's the same damn sensor, just longer wiring, lol!

Explain how the universal sensors that NGK etc make and they work just fine?
 

shelbyman1

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Van is the one who sold me my DY-1184, Raptor o2's. Lund is the guy who tuned my car on them originally too. So far after 3000+ miles with them, I have no issues. Want to know why? It's the same damn sensor, just longer wiring, lol!

?
NEITHER use them now
 

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