Pads and rotors

G's Shelby

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While getting my oil changed at the dealer they said I need pads all the way around and front rotors.
1. What rotors and pads are a good combo?
2. Is this a hard job to do myself on Jack's in my garage?
Thank you in advance
 

RBB

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1. The OEM replacements are fine if you're not looking to spend much money, however, there are plenty of better alternatives depending on what you're looking for. Look around at some of the vendors' sites and you'll get an idea. I definitely prefer a ceramic pad to cut down on the dusting.

2. Judging by the fact that you're asking this question I'm guessing you don't have much experience working on cars. That said, it's a job a beginner can do with basic tools. All you really need is a socket wrench and a compression tool for the rear caliper. I'd imagine there are some how to threads or videos out there if you google it. Any S197 Mustang with the Brembo package will be done the same way.
 

Brutal Metal

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Centrics rotors and their StopTech pads are what I just purchased, nice quality stuff and the price is great at Rockauto.
 

barspen

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For a street driven car, I really like AutoZone CMAX Gold pads and StopTech rotors combo. Price and performance is great.

Pad change is pretty easy, especially the fronts (Brembos). Rear take a special tool to rotate the piston that you can rent or buy (Amazon). Rotors change is a little more work, but not hard. Get some quality jack stands, floor jack, socket set and a long breaker bar. Also, get lots of break cleaner and some anti-seize and extra towels (rubber gloves are a bonus)...the job is a bit messy.

YouTube is your 'best friend' and then you can judge what you think you are capable of.
 

ShelbyGT5HUN

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If dusting isn't a concern, what's a good pad for the street warrior (4th gear pulls to 140, aggressive canyon carving)?
 

barspen

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If dusting isn't a concern, what's a good pad for the street warrior (4th gear pulls to 140, aggressive canyon carving)?

I've run Hawk HPS and HPS 5.0 and they are a nice balance between a pure 'street' pad and a HPDE\autocross pad. Not much dust and will cost more...more aggressive than a ceramic pad.

A step up would be HAWK HP+, which will dust more and make more noise and you need to get them warmed before they are any good. But they will have better stopping power when warmed up. Along the same line, I would look a the Carbotech AX6 (Autocross) for a more aggressive pad (I have not run that specific pad).

just my 2-cents :)
 

RedVenom48

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For the street, Hawk HPS all the way. Quiet, I only get the occaisional squeal coming to a stop from the front and probably just needs to be cleaned and lubed in the front. Rears are solid.

I unbolted the bottom of the rear caliber mouting bolt, tilted up the caliper and used a long set of Snap On needle nose pliers to rotate the pistons back. Works in a pinch of you dont have the tool. Make sure you line up the notch on the piston with the nub on the back of the brake pad.
 

merkyworks

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What is the cause of front brake squeal? Mine do that currently and it's driving me crazy. What do you clean and lube in the front?
 

barspen

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What is the cause of front brake squeal? Mine do that currently and it's driving me crazy. What do you clean and lube in the front?

Try a new set of pins and spring clips...Cheap picking these up at AutoZone or other parts stores. Clean the caliper and rotors very thoroughly with brake cleaner.

Lube the back plates of the pad/shim with high temp pad grease. Hit the edge of the backing plate and the center where the pistons makes contact. DO NOT get any on the actual pad itself and don't over-do it.

Do you know what kind of pad you are running? Some inherently make more noise than others. Some have not be bedded in correctly.
 
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SCGallo2

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DBA (Disc Brakes Australia) 4000/5000 series rotors with Hawk HPS pads is a great combo for high performance street applications.
 

barspen

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Original factory pads and rotors.

If you pull things apart, see how the pads look. Might want to swap them out if they are worn, cracked excessively.

If there's lots of meat left on the pad, you can gently sand them down (don't inhale the dust) and get the rotors turned. Grease pad edges and piston contact points like mentioned in post #12. Then re-bed them.
 
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merkyworks

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If you pull things apart, see how the pads look. Might want to swap them out if they are worn, cracked excessively.

If there's lots of meat left on the pad, you can gently sand them down (don't inhale the dust) and get the rotors turned. Grease pad edges and piston contact points like mentioned in post #12. The re-bed them.

Cool thanks!
 

black99lightnin

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Been looking at those...seems like a great deal. Think you have posted on some other threads.

What about a rotor ring replacement? I didn't see that part available...am I missing it?

Someone else found that on another site. It's as much as the full rotor.
 

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