Pinion Torque Spec.

[2ndGearPull]

Working on the rearend. Decided to replace the pinion seal. I marked the pinion nut and the pinion for reference when reinstalling. When I put the nut back on (used Locite) I tightened the bolt too the mark I made, counting the treads so it would be lined up like before. Is this ok or should I torque the nut too? I did notice about a half turn more from that spot it stop turning almost like it was bottomed out. I was concerned about going to far and crushing the crush sleeve too much! Did I go about this the right way?

 

[magstang1]

I'm just guessing here, but I would say you need the proper torque setting. I wouldn't feel comfortable just turning the nut back to where it was.

 

[jtm]

i think you need a new nut. just kidding....glad to see you doing your homework, so we can get that car back on the road.

 

[TVSCobra]

The proper way would be to have removed the carrier, remove the pinion, replace the seals, replace the bearings (if needed), install a new crush sleeve and reassemble. Get a flange holder and then tighten down the pinoin nut until you get 8-14 in lbs turning torque (old bearing) or 16-29 in lbs (new bearing). But I have done this manying times on an 8.8 and BMW differentials when resealing them. You should be okay with indexing the nut/flange/pinion and then tightening the nut back to that spot. When I do it this way I always measure the turning torque and then tighten the nut to my indexed spot and check it again. I have never had a problem doing it this way. Even in the Ford service manuals it doesn't tell you disassemble everything. It simply tells you to index the marks and then tight the nut back to your marks. Did you use Red grade lock-tite on the reused nut?

 

[2ndGearPull]

The proper way would be to have removed the carrier, remove the pinion, replace the seals, replace the bearings (if needed), install a new crush sleeve and reassemble. Get a flange holder and then tighten down the pinoin nut until you get 8-14 in lbs turning torque (old bearing) or 16-29 in lbs (new bearing). But I have done this manying times on an 8.8 and BMW differentials when resealing them. You should be okay with indexing the nut/flange/pinion and then tightening the nut back to that spot. When I do it this way I always measure the turning torque and then tighten the nut to my indexed spot and check it again. I have never had a problem doing it this way. Even in the Ford service manuals it doesn't tell you disassemble everything. It simply tells you to index the marks and then tight the nut back to your marks. Did you use Red grade lock-tite on the reused nut?

Yes I did use Red grade Locite on the old bolt. I thought it would be ok! I put the bolt a little past the mark just on the safe side. So it sounds like from what you just said that I did it right. The only thing I wish I had is a inlbs. wrench. Then I could have known the torque before taking off the bolt. Oh well! Thanks for the input! :beer: