Anyone have their tranny out that could take a measurement of the lenght of the pivot stud? And let me know if it's factory non adjustable or adjustable. I have to put mne back together and I have an adjstable so I'm trying to get a good staring point and maybe not have to remove it a bunch of times until it's right.
Pivot stud length?
- Thread starter five 0 ninja
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You want your clutch arm to be at the center or towards the back of the opening on the side of the bellhousing when the TOB is touching the pressure plate fingers. If it is too far forward, pushing the pedal all the way down may still not disengage the clutch as you will run out of room.
I'll double check mine when get off work if I can find it , but I believe stock was 1 1/8" to tip of ball . Think I set new one up at 7/8".
From wat I found out u deff want at least 1/8 " clearances between fingers and tob , when no pressure on the fork
Sorry for the hi-jack. But I would like to know if a stock T-56 has a lock washer under the pivot ball and like the OP, what is the total stock length of pivot ball assembly? I ask because i know that my old T-45 does, but just want to be sure on what is correct for stock application on a T-56?
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Somebody told me it should be basically 3/4 of the way toward the back. So in the middle of dead center and all the way back if that makes sense. Problem is I dont know where the pivot stud is going to put it until i put the tranny in and check. Thats why im trying to get it close to stock length for starters. Thanks for input.
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That would be great if you could double check, thanks.
Thats about what I heard also.
Sorry guys just realized I threw mine in trash last nite and was gonna go digging but had threw crab peelings in it earlier before putting it by the road . With all the clutch installs goin on someone has to have one out . Hope someone can answer . Sorry couldn't help more but I do know I remember setting mine up at 7/8 I'm bout 95 % sure .
It sucks, but that's the way to check for sure. You could measure the opening from the back of the engine before removing the transmission, then get it close before putting the tranny back in, but you won't know for sure until it's back in place. Just remember that a longer length on the pivot will move the clutch arm towards the back of the car.
Good luck.
I'm confused , how does a longer pivot ball do that ?? My stock pivot ball was making tob touch fingers so shorts edit with the adjustable one and it moved the arm toward the back more allowing the tob to get away from the fingers . Wat clutch is goin to b used ?? I was told I shouldn't had to do what I did with the rxt , but I heard on here that others had to . I had tranny in with only few bolts to chk tue just pulled it back out to change pivot . That the best way to do it because every car is diff .
Well I put tranny in last night and I have to take it out again I think. Fork is pretty far back. Only have about 1/8" clearance from one of the bolts that hold front case on tranny. And only 5/16" from fork bottoming out on tranny itself. And I adjusted my firewall adjuster all the way in to give me as much slack as possible and I just barely was able to get the cable on the fork, so I would have no adjustment. I set the pivot stud to about 7/8 too. So I guess im going to adjust it as far in as I can and see if it gives me enough clearance. Anyone have any pics of where their fork is when just touching fingers? And anyone know how far fork actually travels backwards from when clutch is new to when it needs to be replaced?
With my fork as far back as could go I had 1/4 inch between tob and clutch fingers . I hope that's enough cause that's how I left it and seems to b fine . I also have the steeda cable which still had Lil slack to go though .
Is that with a twin disc? And what does your fork bottom out on first if you recall?
That's with twin disc rxt , looking through inspection cover I believed the fork hit the black head of one of the bolts first .
I set the pivot stud to just under 3/4" from the 7/8 I had it at. Had it in further but the lock nut was interfering with the clutch fork sliding on. The two metal fingers that slide over ball to lock in place still touch the lock nut slightly when I moved the fork all the way forward, but don't think it should cause an issue. Also I don't think the fork ever goes that far forward when everything is installed. Also fork angle is a past parallel to the block, but clutch pedal feels nice and smooth so hopefully everything is ok. Other then that, I definitely have more clearance now with the fork and more slack with cable. Had a stripped stud in exhaust manifold, so Im trying to find one, then should be able to fire her up and take it for test ride. I'll keep you informed.
stock length is 37.5mm there is no magic number for what it needs to be set to. with my mcloed i pulled it 7 times to get it set right. ended up being 32mm but it seems every clutch is a different thickness so take it for whats its worth.
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