Polishing Upper Intake

98Roush

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I was wondering if anyone has had their upper intake polished and if so how much did you pay? I got quoted $150 and that seems like a lot to me
:shrug:
 

ALLNTRL

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I had mine done by a local Polishing shop that does alot of work for these old high dollar custom street rods and they charged me $200. :( It wasn't cheap but I will have to say that the upper intake hats are a VERY porous metal and are not easy to work with. By that I mean you can polish it "too much" and it will actually look worse than if you hadn't polished on it at all (because it will make the porous holes or pits under the factory powercoating show up and the more you polish the bigger the holes can get). If you haven't ever done polishing work then I suggest you pay the extra and let a professional do the work. :beer:
 
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duane v

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Heres a pic of my engine, I had my valve covers and intake hat polished for $200, all the other crap was done at my place of employment...DA snake boy!!
p1010012_std.jpg
 

98Roush

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Originally posted by duane v
Heres a pic of my engine, I had my valve covers and intake hat polished for $200, all the other crap was done at my place of employment...DA snake boy!!
p1010012_std.jpg

What place did the work? Since youre local
 

duane v

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Didnt realize you are the infamous 98Roush dude:-D ...I had my polishing work done at Rainbow Polishing in El monte...BTW how's the 4V swap going??? Da snake boy!!!
 

98Roush

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:lol: Thats me.....:p

They are the ones who quoted me that price, I guess I'll have to wait, its more than I wanted to spend right now, Ive got too many other things to spend money on:(


Its comming......the biggest hold up is the fuel rails. Dont you love aftermarket bullshit that doesnt fit, RIGHT OUT OF THE BOX:kaboom:

I bought some guy's UPR's(since they fit) and Im waiting on those right now.....all thats left is weld the bypass, extend the 3 or 4 sensors, connect the new fuel lines and mount the y block & FPR....nothing major.....its been so long Im not really in a rush anymore:coolman:
 

duane v

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Ive done a couple of 2v to 4v swaps, and they always turn out to be a PIA. No matter how prepared you always think you are, there's always something that pro-longs the progress, and its always a small collection of little BS that seems to try your patience...But look at it this way, 10 lbs of boost, 3100 lbs stang and some drag suspension and obviously the right tires, you may squeek out a high 10 sec pass, when its all said and done..that might just get Greg quaking in his boots..well until he gets his 4v project underway:-D ...Da snake boy!!
 
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98Roush

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lol....3500 lb, et drags, no rollbar yet,(oh yeah something ELSE to spemd money on) 16-18 psi lookin for 10's and 550-600rw....need an antiroll bar soon too
 

duane v

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I meant to ask, but are you running a stock long block ??? Because if you are, you might wanna stay under 500 rwhp for longeveity purposes, for some reason the stock rod and bolts are questionable at best with those type of horsepower numbers.....:eek: Did I say horsepower???:-D ...DA snake boy!!!
 

98Roush

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Forged internals, arp everything, (arp 2000 rod bolts, main and head studs).......main girdle, 8.7 compression..or 8.5 i cant remember.....it should be stout enough to handle whatever I throw at it....

Someday I'll get to enjoy it:lol:
 

duane v

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Originally posted by 98Roush
Forged internals, arp everything, (arp 2000 rod bolts, main and head studs).......main girdle, 8.7 compression..or 8.5 i cant remember.....it should be stout enough to handle whatever I throw at it....

Someday I'll get to enjoy it:lol:
DAMN!!! Youll be able boost the snot out of that engine:rockon: ...No wonder Gregg scattering to get his 4v project started, fear of no longer being king of hill has him motivated:) ...DA snake boy!!!
 
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98Roush

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Originally posted by duane v
DAMN!!! Youll be able boost the snot out of that engine:rockon: ...No wonder Greg scattering to get his 4v project started, fear of no longer being king of hill has him motivated:) ...DA snake boy!!!

After the 2v took a dump I figured I could do it right the first time, or spend twice as much and end up doing what I wanted after blowing another motor up down the road. It happens, but I hate buying parts twice. You've blown some up too, and it aint fuggin cheap.

You know how it goes though...there is ALWAYS someone faster. I have no desire to ever run faster than 10.0 this is my daily driver, 5 speed, A/C, stereo and all. 10 second street car and Ill be happy......for now
:rockon:

Im not diggin on the idea of a full cage in my daily driver....through the dash and all...I'll stick to the 10's
 

duane v

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Hell ya Ive spent more than my share of $$$ on my stang..my savings account is just starting to recover from all BS Ive done to it:rollseyes ...But at least were able to save some turkey by doing a large portion of it ourselves....I feel for the guys that are at the mercy of their local speed shop, especially if the shop know's what theyre doing:eek:

I remember back in 99 when people were saying, "dont worry, the modulars will be like the 302's and 351's in a few years and will be cheap to mod":rolleyes: ..Im still waiting:rolleyes:

Good-luck with the stang, maybe we can head for the track when its finished and we can all watch you scare the sh*t out of yourself when you launch it for the first time:-D ...DA snake boy!!
 

98Roush

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Yeah cams are only 900-1200 plus 350-400 for springs plus a few hundred for machining:rolleyes: They sure are cheap :mj:


Thanks,
See you at the track maybe:thumbsup:
 

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