Hey fellas so i just finished my rebuild for my 4v and im wondering i was told i needed to prime my system how do i do that i called nappa and a couple places looking to see if they had a pressurized oil pump that i could use but they said they couldnt help me how would i go about doing this.
Prime Oil Pump? Need info
- Thread starter 1989Gt.
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Clear flood: hold the throttle WOT while cranking, it won't start. This stops fuel flow, so no chance of cylinder washdown. Or just pull the fuel pump fuse.
Did you already install it? If not, take off the bottom cover and pack it with vaseline. It helps pull the oil through the pump and speeds up the time it takes to prime it. And MAKE SURE TO USE THE OIL PUMP TO PICKUP TUBE GASKET AND TIGHTEN IT.
You can pull all the spark plugs, then prime it with the starter. Pulling the plugs helps the starter spin the motor faster. Crank it for 10-15 seconds at a time, then let the starter cool. Once you get pressure, continue to prime the pump for a couple more 10-15 second bursts, then reinstall the plugs and fire it up.
You can pull all the spark plugs, then prime it with the starter. Pulling the plugs helps the starter spin the motor faster. Crank it for 10-15 seconds at a time, then let the starter cool. Once you get pressure, continue to prime the pump for a couple more 10-15 second bursts, then reinstall the plugs and fire it up.
no
no
get a bug sprayer from lowes-cut the handle off, push a barb fitting in, and attach to the oil filter housing. fill the sprayer bottle with 4 or so quarts of oil and pump it in. hopefully you already have the fill tube and pump primed prior to putting the pan on. this way you will have oil pressure as soon as you crank the car. pour the rest of the remaining oil into drivers side valve cover. you don't just sit there and turn the motor as most wear the engine will ever see occurs within the first 15 minutes of engine life. after starting, check oil pressure, burp coolant, dump oil, put in fresh oil in the usual manner and drive for 500 miles, then change it again. only use regular oil until about 1500-200 miles then you cna use synthetic. this ensures that the rings will seat properly since full synthetic is too slick and won't let them seat right.
^^ just did this and it worked well.
i put 1qt in through the blower line plus the remaining oil and it never primed. i filled the oil pump with assembly lube at rebuild. i drained the oil and put 4 qts in through the blower feed line plus the remaining and it worked tits. primed immediately.
i put 1qt in through the blower line plus the remaining oil and it never primed. i filled the oil pump with assembly lube at rebuild. i drained the oil and put 4 qts in through the blower feed line plus the remaining and it worked tits. primed immediately.
:lol: WOW Really!! Not knocking anyone's opinion but hellz no!!!!! :nono:
X2 This would be your best bet. Yes a bit more time consuming then the first two, but when weighing the cost of the build.......completely worth it!! Every single dry start, after oil change, first start each day, etc wears more on the bearings and rings than a long trip on the freeway!
Your right. But that doesn't come from turning the engine over, it comes from the impact of combustion pushing the connecting rod onto a dry rod bearing. Any method that involves turning the engine without it firing will work fine. Though I'd never turn it by hand, when I fired my rebuild it took quite a while to build pressure.
no offense but bullshit, these 4v heads hold a ton of oil, so while you're turning your motor over- the pass head is bout dry- you're creating premature wear.
Don't listen to any of these suggestions (encasedmetal excluded)
Any new engine has ample amounts of assembly lube.
Just start the car, the pump will prime within 2-3 seconds and life will be good.
Trust me!
Any new engine has ample amounts of assembly lube.
Just start the car, the pump will prime within 2-3 seconds and life will be good.
Trust me!
You should have more than enough assembly lube on all moving parts in the heads.
Lol. If there's one suggestion that shouldn't be listened to, uh...
So i can tap in where the oil adapter is with that 1/4 inch drive screw right?
Thanks for all the help fellas i think ill use the bug sprayer thing i did put vasaline in the oil pump but i just wanna make this as clean and long lasting as possible! So any type bug sprayer would work right
Thanks for all the help fellas i think ill use the bug sprayer thing i did put vasaline in the oil pump but i just wanna make this as clean and long lasting as possible! So any type bug sprayer would work right
Well then sir, everytime you or anyone else for that matter let's their car sit for months....say winter storage without being started....are we to hook our handy dandy garden sprayer up to the engine and prime it?
Give me a break.
yep
you shouldn't go that long without starting it -so you probably will be giving yourself an eventual break:lol1:
You just said the most important thing "Dry bearing". Even with assembly lube, the bearings are still dry in comparison to when oil is being pumped to them! Hence why priming is pretty damn important, not just spinning it over!!
You keep thinking that!! No oil pump that is being started for the first time primes in 2-3 seconds, be realistic!! :bash:
Not true! Assembly lube doesn't keep parts lubed forever! Most OHC engines have machined camshaft journals. How quick do you think that surface will stay sufficiently lubed until the pump primes and pushes oil to the heads??
So your telling me that you have never heard valvetrain noise or seen a rough idle on initial start up that goes away after warm up?? That's generally caused by lifters bleeding down. That's one of the main reason lifters and push rods should be soaked in oil before installation!! Ask any true car collector that has cars that don't run very much, how often do their cars just get started up. Letting engines sit for long periods of time is a bad idea!! Ask General Motors! They used to have problems with building Reman motors and then letting them sit for several years just to find out they had lifter and valvetrain issues because of it!
Try calling a reputable engine builder and see if they think that just spinning it over until it builds pressure is the best way. Hell I'm sure most people aren't even using plasti gauge to check bearing clearances!! OP stick with what's known to be safe, not what people think is the easiest. Spending a little money and time to do things the right way separates the good from the best! :rockon:
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As with anything, there is a wrong way, an acceptable way and then overkill.
A properly prepped oil pump (not dry) will pickup and pressurize the oil passages almost immediately. The time it takes for oil to circulate to the extremities of the oil passages, especially with a crank driven pump and low viscosity oil will also happen rapidly.
An engine built with the proper application of assembly lube will tolerate a decent amount of no-load rotation and more than enough revs for the pump to pickup and lube all passages before any wear can occur. Assembly lube is made for that. If assembly lube can't temporarily supply lubrication long enough for a properly prepped pump to prime, then your bearings and journals would be prone to damage just by the manual rotations that the builder makes during the rebuild process.
You can play with bug sprayers and what not, it can't hurt and it sure seems fancy, but if the engine was built correctly, and the pump was packed with vaseline or even just filled with oil, pulling the plugs and hitting the starter is probably the most reasonable way to go about priming a fresh rebuild.
A properly prepped oil pump (not dry) will pickup and pressurize the oil passages almost immediately. The time it takes for oil to circulate to the extremities of the oil passages, especially with a crank driven pump and low viscosity oil will also happen rapidly.
An engine built with the proper application of assembly lube will tolerate a decent amount of no-load rotation and more than enough revs for the pump to pickup and lube all passages before any wear can occur. Assembly lube is made for that. If assembly lube can't temporarily supply lubrication long enough for a properly prepped pump to prime, then your bearings and journals would be prone to damage just by the manual rotations that the builder makes during the rebuild process.
You can play with bug sprayers and what not, it can't hurt and it sure seems fancy, but if the engine was built correctly, and the pump was packed with vaseline or even just filled with oil, pulling the plugs and hitting the starter is probably the most reasonable way to go about priming a fresh rebuild.
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Rather than continue this debate, ill just say that I never pack an oil pump with vaseline, and have never used a bug sprayer to prime my engine.
Assembly lube + start the engine has always worked for me and I have 80-100psi pressure within 3 seconds tops.
I pulled the plugs and cranked the engine once and it took 60 seconds to build 5psi of pressure. The starter was not happy after that.
Assembly lube + start the engine has always worked for me and I have 80-100psi pressure within 3 seconds tops.
I pulled the plugs and cranked the engine once and it took 60 seconds to build 5psi of pressure. The starter was not happy after that.
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