pulling lower ?'s

Jgruggs

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pulling the lower off 04 Cobra and having a time getting the crankshaft bolt loose. Using the 14mm hex provided and put breaker bar with cheater pipe and still no go. Maybe too weak? LOL. Also when replacing the alt. pulley do you have to pull the alt. out of the car to change pulley? In progress now...any help would be greatly appericiated. Thanks
 

Snakebite2k3

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if you ask DANA on this site he will tell you eveything you need to know.
hes one of the few poeple that will touch my car.

good luck
 
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BIGV

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I have not done a lower but I have read that it is a bitch to get the bolts out they make a popping sound when you break them lose I have heard
 

showme cobra

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here is the easiest way to do it- raise the car up on a rack, position one of the arms on the lower assembly to the 8 oclock position, take a air hammer with a flat blade and hit it in the clockwise position for a second or two should break loose. all the cage bolts must be loose because the whole assembly rotates ,after reading all of the problems people have had trying to break the bolt loose i tried it first with a air hammer and it took two seconds to break it loose:coolman:
 

Jgruggs

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you talkin bout the triangle shaped piece attached to the front of the pulley with 3 rivits? Looks like we need it back on the new pulley...don't want to damage it....do we?
 

03' White Snake

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To remove the crank pullie on my GT for the Steeda under drives, I put on the socket with a 1/2" drive and a breaker bar and turn the car over, but do not start it, Thats how my mechanic told me to get them free, use the starter on the car. Don't know if it is the same, but I will find out this winter when I install my 4# lower.
 

03yellow

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I put a lower on my gt as well...totally different.
I wish the cobra had been that easy to put on!!!

03' White Snake said:
To remove the crank pullie on my GT for the Steeda under drives, I put on the socket with a 1/2" drive and a breaker bar and turn the car over, but do not start it, Thats how my mechanic told me to get them free, use the starter on the car. Don't know if it is the same, but I will find out this winter when I install my 4# lower.
 

Jgruggs

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fella's let me tell ya, that was some work getting the hex head bolt in the center of the lower pulley loose. First, we thought that the bolt itself would come loose and back out....uh uh. It stays in the pulley and turns a bigger bolt that backs out bringing with it the whole assembly....the braces and one of the idler pulleys' with it. First , put the trans in a high gear, like 4th or 5th and set the E-brake. Then with the front of the car jacked way up , or better yet on a lift, put a long handle breakover bar on and put a cheater pipe on the end of that. Then pull with all you got turning it clockwise. Sooner or later it will break , and when it does it will pop all of a sudden and just about freewheel out , so be careful and don't break a hand. Going back with the underdrive pulley be sure and put the correct size spacers in the correct spots. The 2 spacers that are the same length go in the top and the longest one in the bottom and the smallest goes between the new bracket and the alt. bracket. The instructions show a pic. of where they go but not very clear and no written info on where they go. Other than that , really not that hard to install. The alt. pulley was easy to change, just run the nut off with a air gun. Changed it in place after pulling the battery and battery tray. Hope this helps someone else. We thank everyone who responded with tips, ideas and words of encouragement to a couple of ol country boys who THOUGHT they were decent shade tree mechanics'. Thanks also to SVT PERFORMANCE for providing this site to help dummies like me.:rockon:
 

tnkucan

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center bolt was a bitch used jack handle for levrege do not buy moto blue whell i dont think they sell it anymore
 

hb712

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Cheater bar + breaker bar = easy after I figured it out. There are holes on the harmonic balancer behind the lower you're removing. You can put an allen wrench in the hole so it will catch and the crank won't try to turn. That gets rid of all the flex, and the pulley will pop (literally) pretty easily.
 

03yellow

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I turned the lower so that one of the spokes was at the 3 oclock position.
The I took a long pipe and placed it on top of the spoke and hit down on the pipe with a large hammer. The pulley actually unthreaded from the center hub. The center hub and hex nut stayed on the car. I slipped the new lower over the hub and bolted it down....now I still have the hub and hex nut still there to turn the crank if needed.
Worked great!!!
 

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