I am putting belltech drop spindles on my L but have a few questions first. I've read all about the lower ball joint problem that it has to be replaced and trimmed down, but what about the upper ball joint. Do I need to replace that as well or does it just unbolt? Also if there is any other advise or instruction that the experts can offer before I put the spindles on it would be very much appreciated?
Question about belltech spindles?
- Thread starter Crp_diem
- Start date
You don't need to replace the upper ball joint unless it is worn out. They are part of the upper control arm and unless you go aftermarket then there is no option but to replace the entire upper A arm.
The spindles are really straight forward as far as the swap goes. I'd recommend changing out the lower ball joints if they are old since you are already there. 10 more minutes of work saves a ton of time later on down the road.
I still need to measure for you. I was really busy around the house yesterday.
The spindles are really straight forward as far as the swap goes. I'd recommend changing out the lower ball joints if they are old since you are already there. 10 more minutes of work saves a ton of time later on down the road.
I still need to measure for you. I was really busy around the house yesterday.
If you replace the upper ball joint you will have to replace the entire upper control arm. The factory one is all one piece. Only other advice about the spindles is make sure that your brake calipers fit before you get it all installed. I had to grind down the mounts on the spindles. Just take your time and make sure everything is tight and where its supposed to be. Its well worth it!!
Is there a pictorial type how-to and an explanation on what needs grinding and why? I thought Bell-Tek corrected all this a year or so ago? I thought the only "hairy" thing was some people didn't like the way the retainer nut was designed, and the fact that some smaller wheels had some sort of issues. Something along the lines of:
FAQ or Fiction: Bell-Tek Spindle Installation
1. Must brake calipers be ground down in order to use these spindles on a Lightning, and where do you normally grind... is it a measurable location?
2. Can any size & width wheel be used with Bell-Tek spindles?
3. Are there any special tools (front-end tools) needed to remove & replace the OEM spindles with the Bell-Tek spindles?
4. Is it mandatory to replace any OEM parts when doing the Bell-Tek conversion?
5. Will stock shocks, springs, or any other component need to be modified in this conversion?
6. With ordinary homeowner tools, does this job take more than 60 minutes per side?
There's probably other stuff too.
FAQ or Fiction: Bell-Tek Spindle Installation
1. Must brake calipers be ground down in order to use these spindles on a Lightning, and where do you normally grind... is it a measurable location?
2. Can any size & width wheel be used with Bell-Tek spindles?
3. Are there any special tools (front-end tools) needed to remove & replace the OEM spindles with the Bell-Tek spindles?
4. Is it mandatory to replace any OEM parts when doing the Bell-Tek conversion?
5. Will stock shocks, springs, or any other component need to be modified in this conversion?
6. With ordinary homeowner tools, does this job take more than 60 minutes per side?
There's probably other stuff too.
The spindle is just like stock for removing and installing.
18 inch wheel minimum.
I forgot about the caliper fitting issue. The two tabs/ears on the spindle where the caliper bracket bolts to needs to be ground down. They are WAY to fat. There is plenty of metal to safely remove the small amount of material that is needed to gain the needed clearance.
Large Sockets/wrenches, cotter pins, BFH and aside from the grinding you could have each side done in 30 minutes.
You will need to eyeball the tie rods to get the wheel somewhat straight to get the truck safely to the alignment shop.
18 inch wheel minimum.
I forgot about the caliper fitting issue. The two tabs/ears on the spindle where the caliper bracket bolts to needs to be ground down. They are WAY to fat. There is plenty of metal to safely remove the small amount of material that is needed to gain the needed clearance.
Large Sockets/wrenches, cotter pins, BFH and aside from the grinding you could have each side done in 30 minutes.
You will need to eyeball the tie rods to get the wheel somewhat straight to get the truck safely to the alignment shop.
Thank you guys for all the info. The most important thing i needed was about the ball joints. I guess really i don't need to replace any of them? (Yes-no) I only have 28,000 miles on the truck.
Ride The-- Don't worry about the measurements to much, whenever you get to it will be soon enough
Thanks again
Ride The-- Don't worry about the measurements to much, whenever you get to it will be soon enough
Thanks again
I didn't have to grind one thing with my spindle install. Complete bolt on, no issues. Eye balled the tie-rods, got it aligned the following day and its been good 2 years later.
Floor to Wheel well lip = 28 1/2 inches.
Center of Wheel cap to Wheel well lip = 15 1/4 inches.
Thats B/T Spindles, FRPP drop springs and Iso's left in.
I replaced my lower ball joints at 21K. They weren't the worst that I have seen but they had play in them no the less. It really is a ten minute job to replace both of them once you have the spindle off.
All you need to do is borrow/rent a remover/installer from Vatozone, Advanced Auto, ETC.
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i plan on replacing the upper arms with Moog units anyways and since its 5 extra minutes per side I plan on using moog lower balls if possible.
Sadly ill be having my alignment shop do mine while im in the office, overtime comes firs tlol
Sadly ill be having my alignment shop do mine while im in the office, overtime comes firs tlol
That is the exact same setup i am going with other than i have belltech springs. Thanks for the measurments and i guess the balljoints are getting replaced. :beer:
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