Question for you Terminator guys

[sdfrog177]

I have a question about the KB 40 amp BAP and the stock FPDM. I had some work done on my 2001 Cobra and was told you terminator guys splice the wires that go directly to the BAP CONTROLLER to keep the system on all the time. I cant find anywhere in the instruction manual were it says that. Would this have caused my FPDM module to explode (see pics). Obviously my car ended up dead durring rush hour:fm: about 30 mins from leaving the shop. This is all I could find from KB in the instruction manual " if full time operation of the BAP is desirered, simply splice the two wires together that go to the pressure/vacume switch" (completely different set of wires than the BAP ones). These pics should show what was the end result.

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[nstag8r]

It is the set of wires in step 3 that shows the two wires that go to the hobbs switch are the two that get spliced together for a fulltime operation.

 

[Venomous01]

Did you break the BAP? I have mine on all the time, basically it has the ability to give full voltage when necessary. I do not recall having to splice the wires.

 

[sb03cobra]

Never seen anyone do that before. I have the Hobbs switch spliced together, but thats all.

I would hook it back up and just set it on 50%.

Might be a good time to get an upgraded FPDM


PM me if you need a FPDM, I have a spare.

 

[sdfrog177]

Not sure if my BAP is fried as well most likely is. I may have engine damage to cap things off since the car was at some high RPM's (merging onto freeway top of 2nd) when the fuel shut off on the 405S at the start of afternoon rush hour on Friday. A $300 dollar tow back to the shop, car sits for 3 days, I have to get a ride back to San Diego (130 miles) turn around with my truck, rent a tow dolly and tow the cobra back to my house after taking a day off work to do this. Today I dropped my tank since I figure that my pump may be fried as well. Tomorrow I will purchase a new pump, new FPDM and hopefully everything checks out. Basically from everything I have read and been told by others, I got screwed by the type of work that was done on my car. Hopefully this this thread will save someone else from having this done to them. I usally do all of my own work on my cars, it seems like whenever I let someone else touch an auto of mine something gets broken or not done right. I know how to keep the system on all the time by splicing the hobbs switch, that is clearly stated in the instruction manual from KB. Im about 99.9% sure the splice the shop did on the BAP controller is what melted my FPDM and ended up costing my alot of time and $ and possibly major internal engine damage since the car is supercharged and was under boost at the time of shutoff. Im going to get to the bottom of this since alot of people on this site use this shop. NOTE: immediately after the car died I reached down on touched the spliced BAP control wire and it was almost to hot to touch. Yet another signal that things were being "cooked"

 

[Venomous01]

Please let us know what shop you are referring to? You may help others in the area.

 

[sdfrog177]

It is the set of wires in step 3 that shows the two wires that go to the hobbs switch are the two that get spliced together for a fulltime operation.

That is 100% correct to splice the Hobbs switch. This guy spliced both the Hobbs switch AND THE BAP CONTROLLER SWITCH in my car. Then he says afterwards "this is what the Termi guys do". My internal guts were saying no dice but I figured he knows his SH$T:bash: