Question on how to solve gear whine

[biminiLX]

I’d retighten to the tightest spec .008 and run it before. Worst case you’re going back to rebuild.
Again, the key on a rebuild is to eliminate flex in the housing—-bracing as much as possible and cover with ARP fasteners including on main caps and honestly the most important for whine AND strip enjoyment RUN A BIAS PLY TIRE
-J

 

[Snoopy49]

I would also check the contact pattern and see what that tells you.
Also check the pinion bearing preload.
This is from Randys website.

What is the best marking compound to use when setting up a ring & pinion?
The best compound we have found for checking a pattern is a tan, “peanut butter” colored type. There have been other colors over the years, including a dark blue compound, however the dark color of the blue makes it difficult to get a clear view of the pattern against the dark color of the ring & pinion set. The tan color provides a good contrast of colors and is much easier to see.

 

[Snoopy49]

To set pinion preload you will need a 0-75 in. lb. dial or deflecting beam torque wrench.

Pinion bearing preload 1.8-3.3 Nm (16-29 lb-in)

PROTO DIAL TORQUE WRENCH 6169A
Deflecting beam torque wrench.

 

[Snoopy49]

I can't see how they can determine pinion bearing preload without removing the axles and carrier.

 

[Snoopy49]

Here is another how to manual from Yukon.
Yukon_Installation_Kit_Instructions.pdf

And Ford Racing.
M-4209-8.8 Ring and Pinion Installation Instruction Sheet .pdf

 

[Mojo88]

I can't see how they can determine pinion bearing preload without removing the axles and carrier.

Thanks man. I was also confused on this.

I will check pinion preload after I get the axles, carrier and driveshaft out. I am anticipating that it will be loose. Would it make sense to simply torque down the existing crush sleeve a little more if it's loose, or better off to set up the solid spacer?

 

[Snoopy49]

Thanks man. I was also confused on this.

I will check pinion preload after I get the axles, carrier and driveshaft out. I am anticipating that it will be loose. Would it make sense to simply torque down the existing crush sleeve a little more if it's loose, or better off to set up the solid spacer?

From what I have read, it is not recommended. When the spacer is new you tighten it down until to get the required preload, but if you go to far you cannot back off the nut to reduce preload, you must replace with a new spacer.
I would go with a solid spacer and shims.

 

[LEXiiON]

Hey All,

thanks for the replies. I guess a rebuild is in. I am surprised that his happened with street tires (Michelin PS3)....
I'll start with a plan shortly...

LEXiiON

 

[MAZZ MAN]

The fix is off road exhaust and a better audio system.

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