Ok so I have decided to pull the trigger and the get 10.5" chrome replicas for the rear and was thinking of just getting some of the sumitomo 315's. I was reading the thread on the rubbing issue so I ordered my MM IRS bolts. For the install on these, do when you take of the bolt is something going to be released? I was under the car looking at them and wasn't sure if I should throw a jack to apply pressure where the IRS meets right there or what, and do people think I will HAVE to run a spacer? Im trying to stay away from that idea....hoping the bolts will be enough to clear. Thanks for any input/photo's
Questions for those who have done 17x10.5"
- Thread starter SB VENOM
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slitherin' 03
Banned
I wasnt sure either but when i did mine. i jacked up the car on the lower control arm, pulled the wheel and put a jack stand on the tubular part directly under the irs bolt. Then I let the jack down till the stand and tube were just touching. I guess I balanced the weight evenly on the jack (on a arm) and the jackstand on tube under irs bolt. I zipped it out with an air gun and put the new one in. It was the simplest thing yet concerning mods on the cobra. I got my irs bolts from steeda and they didnt have the washer like the stockers do. so I put a washer on cause it didnt have enough contact on the metal it it looked like it might slip through the hole.
slitherin' 03
Banned
yeah i ran a 10.5 wheel and a 315 goodyear f1 gsd3. no spacer needed for me altho others have needed the spacer. tolerances seem to be different between different cars. i do have some rub on my inner fender lip cause i have my car dropped pretty low with coil overs so i will need to get my fender lip rolled.
If your car is not lowered, there's a 90% chance you won't need any wheel spacers. If your car is lowered, you almost certainly won't need them.
That exact setup (AFS 10.5" wheels + Sumitomo 315s) fit on my car without spacers. The only problem was the driver's side, where the sidewall to IRS frame clearance was less than 1/8" when the car was on the ground. That seemed a little tight for my taste, so I went with a 7/32" spacer. But remember...every car is different, so yours may be fine. For all I know I would have been fine...even with that little bit of clearance I had.
There have been many people with that same combo who never needed spacers. The bolts are definitely a good idea, though.
DON'T GET SUPERHOMO'S they are made of butter :shrug: then solidified and molded into tires 
I had my stock wheels widened to 11, and needed an eibach spacer,however, please read read first part of post
I had my stock wheels widened to 11, and needed an eibach spacer,however, please read read first part of post
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DON'T GET SUPERHOMO'S they are made of butter :shrug: then solidified and molded into tires
I had my stock wheels widened to 11, and needed an eibach spacer,however, please read read first part of post
Maybe so, but they're CHEAP!!!:rockon:
Jacob,
I think I have a set of bolts here at the house they are the stock one and I had the heads turned down at a machine shop. You will need a 1/4-3/8" spacers get those from MM and I would recommend you getting Nittos.
Thats why I tried them, but I do regret not spending more for nitto dr's, which be my next tires again :thumbsup:
My crap is cheap, how much should I send ya
So is your sister, and I've already bought all of that I can afford.
oke::beer:
I have the 10.5 with the Nittos on them and I originally didn't do anything with the bolt for a week. I then jacked up the car to see if the tire would hit it and sure enough it would. I just used a grinder and ground some of the bolt off and that is all I needed to do.
(stock suspension btw I didn't want to have to deal with taking anything more apart)
(stock suspension btw I didn't want to have to deal with taking anything more apart)
Tom, I just ordered some MM IRS bolts so its too late for that, but thanks anyways! I wouldn't mind running the Nitto's but am slightly worried about the Drag Radials in the rain....I keep reading all these horror stories and pictures of totalled cobras.....
So is your sister, and I've already bought all of that I can afford.
I only have a brother, how was he
oke: :beer:
I have 10.5 AFS w/ Sumitomo 315/35ZR17s.
Stock springs and shocks w/ 1/3 coil cut in the rear.
At full droop the driver's side touched the MM low profile bolt.
So I bought the MM 1/4" spacers, which don't require longer studs.
Problem solved.
The tires work fine. I don't expect or need a whole lot of HOOK from a street tire.
They are OK in the rain, considering how wide they are. The price is tough to argue with.
Some people have needed spacers some don't. There is a good deal of production variance.
Make sure you check your clearance at full droop, if they don't touch then I doubt they will touch ever.
Stock springs and shocks w/ 1/3 coil cut in the rear.
At full droop the driver's side touched the MM low profile bolt.
So I bought the MM 1/4" spacers, which don't require longer studs.
Problem solved.
The tires work fine. I don't expect or need a whole lot of HOOK from a street tire.
They are OK in the rain, considering how wide they are. The price is tough to argue with.
Some people have needed spacers some don't. There is a good deal of production variance.
Make sure you check your clearance at full droop, if they don't touch then I doubt they will touch ever.
I like the idea of the spacers pushing the tires out closer to the lip of the fender like our front tires are. Any reason why I SHOULDN'T use spacers, regardless of whether the tire rubs without them or not?
lethal chem, unless u run a longer wheel stud setup in the back, spacers make it so u have less threads to grab with every lug. i put 10.5"s in the back a while ago. first set of tires on them were the sumitomos, they are alright i guess, for the price. to make it work i used a 7/32" spacer. i think. i bought some nittos and put them on today. when i checked to see if the tire would touch at full droop, the passenger side had about a 1/4" but the driver side was like 1/8", so im gonna buy the button head bolts just for some added peace of mind.
Not if you use a spacer that bolts to the hub and has complete studs in it to then bolt the wheel to it like
instead of these
Thanks for the info. I assumed I'd be putting in longer studs.
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