Questions regarding new engine

[Myersprostatus]

Hey guys, I just got my long block back and I am super stoked about it.
Well I have some questions. How do you prime the engine for start up?

MMR built the longblock and they gave me a warranty/information guidline when I picked it up. The only thing it says about priming the engine is dont prime with the starter because the engine wont turn quick enough.

The salesman who I did business with over there didnt tell me anything about priming the motor. He told me that when I break it in keep the RPMs under 4000. He also stated put full synthetic 10w30 in and then change the oil after 500 miles. He then said after an additional 1500 miles change the oil again with full sythetic, then he said after an additional 2500 miles change the oil again.
When I read the instruction sheet provided it contradicted what he told me by stating change it at 400 miles and then again at 4000 miles. It also said DO NOT USE FULL SYNTHETIC UNTIL 6000 MILES HAVE BEEN PUT ON THE ENGINE.
Any information is appreciated because I do not want to ruin my $5,000 dollar engine

I also have a question about spark plug gap. I bumped the compression up to 10.5:1 and just bought the stock plugs. Someone at the shop told me to gap them to .030. Anyone have some input if this sounds correct? Also, stock cobra plugs would be substantial for my application, correct?

Any information is much appreciated and I can not wait untill I get this bad boy in my car! thank you
-Mitch

 

[na svt]

The stock heat range or one step colder with the stock gap will be fine since the compression ratio is only half a point higher than stock.

Do not use synthetic oil for break in.

 

[01slo vert]

I currently just built my motor and this is how I'm gonna break mine in. I used Joe Gibbs break in oil and am gonna change the filter after 100 miles and then change the oil after 400/500 miles. After that I'm prob gonna go with full synthetic but I have to look into it and see what kind of oil I should run. I talked to a few different people and they say drive it how its gonna be driven. I'm not exactly easy on my stuff but I take good care of it. I have about 50 miles on it now and I get on it occasionally just don't pull it out to red line. I try and keep the RPM's above 2,000. I was told not to lug the motor and to do more engine braking when getting on it over using the actual brakes to stop you. Granted I built my motor myself so (knock on wood) god forbid something happens I'm my own warranty.

My motor is a 5.0 stroker with ported and polished heads. My CR is about 10.5:1

For plugs, I used the factory plugs but forget what I set the gap to. I'm debating on pulling them out when I change the filter to check them out. Once my car hits 400/500 miles its going in to get tuned and gonna hammer down from there.
Hope that helps some. Gonna be subbing to this cuz I'm curious to see what people say since I'm going through the same process as we speak.

 

[na svt]

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

 

[STAMPEDE3]

.054 for the gap.

 

[JBird_Cobra]

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

This is what I've used for all my bikes and they've all run fantastic.

 

[01yellercobra]

I would go with whatever MMR says to do. That way if something happens they can't say it was how you broke it in.

Personally I beat on my motors out of the gate. This one saw boost within the first few minutes of initial start up. After it was warmed up and I saw no leaks I took it out for a drive and hammered on it. It was on a dyno with less then 100 miles on it. Actually, I think it hit 100 miles on the dyno. I have stainless rings though. And I read those need to be broken in hard. It's still moving along and all cylinders were over 180psi last time I checked.

 

[01slo vert]

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

.054 for the gap.

NA, that's actually the article I was basing my break in off of to an extent and Stampede3 I think I went to that. I know it was less than .056.

 

[po-po 5.0]

I have no idea how you'd prime a mod motor without using the starter. You can't exactly sping the oil pump shaft with a drill like you could an old SBF.

 

[01yellercobra]

I've heard of guys using the pressurized tanks for spraying weed killer. They put adapters on the end of the spray nozzle to connect it to the oil filter adapter.

 

[Kcobra99]

I've heard of guys using the pressurized tanks for spraying weed killer. They put adapters on the end of the spray nozzle to connect it to the oil filter adapter.

That's what I did. Got a hand pump weed sprayer from a hardware store, put a 4qt jug of oil in it. Removed the sprayer nozzle end, threaded the hose into the oil pressure sender port and pumped all the oil into the engine.
Fortunately, one of the plastic threaded portions of the sprayer matched the oil pressure port, no adaptors required.

 

[WhiteSnake99]

I have heard of people saying to take it easy for break in and I have heard people say to break it in like you are going to drive it. I have done both and not had problems.

 

[Myersprostatus]

thanks for the tips guys. As for what MMR said, they dont really give too much information in the packet. It just says DO NOT pressurize the oil with the starter, the starter will not spin the engine quick enough and damage to block and heads may occur.

It doesnt say anywhere in the packet how to prime the engine, just what not to do.

For break in it states to use non-synthetic oil, keep the RPMS under 4500 rpm. It also says to change the oil after the first 400 miles and again at 2500 miles.

What you guys said about the weed killer through the oil adapter sounds about right, I may give them another call on monday.

 

[01yellercobra]

I usually do an initial start up then drain that oil right away. Next oil change was at 500 miles. The one after that was at 3000 miles. I haven't had issues with it. And I primed it with the starter.

I know guys that use the burnout box as their break in. I figured if it's gonna blow it's gonna blow. Doesn't matter if it's at 3 miles or 300.

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[na svt]

Breaking it in properly ensures the ring are seated. Breaking one in while thrashing it is okay for a race engine but not a street car that's gonna see thousands of miles.

 

[racecougar]

I've heard of guys using the pressurized tanks for spraying weed killer. They put adapters on the end of the spray nozzle to connect it to the oil filter adapter.

That's what I did. Got a hand pump weed sprayer from a hardware store, put a 4qt jug of oil in it. Removed the sprayer nozzle end, threaded the hose into the oil pressure sender port and pumped all the oil into the engine.
Fortunately, one of the plastic threaded portions of the sprayer matched the oil pressure port, no adaptors required.

Same here. Though I adapted mine to hook up to the line returning to the engine from my remote oil filter.

Another option is to build a primer with a shaft driven pump and a bucket, like the Car Craft Magazine guys did:

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0906_budget_pressure_luber_build/viewall.html