Sick looking box BTW.
Radio Upgrade Time
- Thread starter 03cobra#2
- Start date
Sick looking box BTW.
My favorite amp back in the day was this Orion HCCA 275 that I had at 1ohm on two 15" RF HX2's. Damn that thing beat in my 1999 4 door Explorer.
I was debating a old school build with 2 kicker S12d/c's or Rockford RFP-1212's and a old school amp like a HCCA 275, punch 50m, Art Series A1200 ect. Never had Orion back then so it appeals to me now.
Anywho reccomondations on a 270-300 amp alternator for our cars?
I run a Mechman370 in my F150 but unsure if they have one for Mustangs. Happy with the brand though. Name brands though I'll always run Sundown subs/amps but Down4Sound JP amps are great budget amps.
***Apologies for high jacking your thread OP!
After doing a bit of research, looks like need to upgrade my under hood battery to a agm. And throw a Lithium battery in the mix. I was not wanting to add a second battery but these lithium power cells are very small and easy to hide, and obly weigh 7 lbs or so. I can deal with That.
Finally got to take the car out, went to a empty parking lot and played around with the system a bit. Definetly need more power. Using my volt meter during bass hits / test tones voltage drops into the 12 volt range pretty easy and the amp does go into protect. Also the ms3 does not like voltage drops. When the bass hits the wideband goes lean for a split second and the car jerks. 
.
Currently running a 200 amp alternator and a older lead acid group 59 battery under the hood.
On order is a 270 amp alternator, and a XS D3400 agm battery to replace the lead acid under the hood. That should pretty much fix the problem. If I still need a bit more lithium batteries are only 5-7 lbs and I can easily add that.
On a side note the back end definetly sits lower with the subs in there lol. I figure weight wise if I remove the subs I probably added 80 lbs to the car with the amps, sound deadening, and upgraded battery under the hood. A fair trade off to have a nice audio system.
The subs and boxes probably add another 75lbs or so.
I'll respond back when I get new parts installed.
. Currently running a 200 amp alternator and a older lead acid group 59 battery under the hood.
On order is a 270 amp alternator, and a XS D3400 agm battery to replace the lead acid under the hood. That should pretty much fix the problem. If I still need a bit more lithium batteries are only 5-7 lbs and I can easily add that.
On a side note the back end definetly sits lower with the subs in there lol. I figure weight wise if I remove the subs I probably added 80 lbs to the car with the amps, sound deadening, and upgraded battery under the hood. A fair trade off to have a nice audio system.
The subs and boxes probably add another 75lbs or so.
I'll respond back when I get new parts installed.
What's the total system wattage?
Roughly 3500-4000 watts.
Also I'm thinking the MS3's power supply must not be regulated as I've never had a car stumble from a voltage drop during a bass hit.
I don't think I'll ever have that much power so I should be good.
It might not be the MS3. It could be an issue with the wideband wigging out, then giving the MS3 a bad reading, which causes it to act up. By the time you see it on the wideband everything has already happened.
It might not be the MS3. It could be an issue with the wideband wigging out, then giving the MS3 a bad reading, which causes it to act up. By the time you see it on the wideband everything has already happened.
Good point! Maybe I'll data log and take a closer look at what's going on before I throw the new stuff in.
You will need lithium at 4k....easily. I would say over 2k. I have a Mechman370 and the same battery under the hood. No way I could run this SALT-4 without lithium.
Thank you for the input. That will be an easy add on. What do you think about these supercapacitor?
To my knowledge caps are a thing of the past and no one I know uses them and I'm on like 10 bass groups on face book at least and see no mention of them.
You might be able to get away with a Titan 8+ lithium battery but not cheap but more safe than running cells like I do. It still has cells but enclosed.
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If you want cells I would do about a 56Ah like this. It's about the size of a car battery but much less weight. Next Level Fabrications who does my enclosures also built this one...I just went bigger later. An isolator between batteries is sometimes needed...less if the charging voltage of the batteries is the same and chemistry. Never a bad idea to my knowledge. You can do a battery delete if Lithium is sufficient to run the car and the stereo. Weight Savings.
More parts today. J2Fab 270 amp alternator and a XS3400 battery. I had to modify the battery tray slightly and install a post to make the battery fit nice and snug.
Are you running any kind of distribution blocks for the power and ground?
I have a single 0 gauge going back to the trunk that is running the amps, fuel pumps. Eventually I'll get a seperate 8 or 4 gauge back there to put the pumps on. For the grounds I have everything grounded seperate.
DJ Magic Mike make the car go BOOM!
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Hitting the home strech. Battery & alternator installed, finishing up some wiring on the MS3. I have gone through a lot of zip ties to keep everything clean. This is the last rats nest to clean up. Also I installed a maf delete plate. 
I'll get the car out and run through some different music with the volt meter. I'm pretty sure voltage drop will be better but still thinking I'm going to need a Lithium battery or super capacitor in the back.
I'll get the car out and run through some different music with the volt meter. I'm pretty sure voltage drop will be better but still thinking I'm going to need a Lithium battery or super capacitor in the back.
Very awesome. I'd love to do something like this but I feel like I'm too old for subs and all that haha
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You're never too old for subs. I don't always need to make windows rattle. Having the bass for drums makes it sound better IMO.
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