Re-worked my brake cooling

[dmichaels]

After continued brake fade issues I've had at track outings this year, I did some research and found the 2011/2012 Mustang routing has a significantly larger inlet area compared with the fog light bezels I have been using. Additionally, the routing has fewer bends, so significantly less loss in the duct.


So I bought a set of 4" to 3" ducting reducers (basically the same as the JLT inlets) for $2.50 each on Amazon. I drilled out the side areas of the lower grill and installed as shown.


Based on quick measurements, it appears I'm gaining about 50% more area with these inlets compared with the FR bezels. The FR ones, when viewed from the front of the car, look to have a cross section of roughly 2 or 2.25" diameter. The new inlets are 3". A comparison show is below.


PARTS LIST for current setup:
High temp 3" ducting: Ducting

Backing plates: Backing Plates
4" to 3" ducting reducer Inlets
- I cut the 4" section off, leaving a flanged 3" inlet. You can see the flange in my pictures - the 3" portion extends inwards
I also put in SS lines today, which should help stiffen the pedal a bit more too.


I'll be out again in just over a week to test the new setup. I'm hopeful that I'll FINALLY have no brake fade with this ducting setup.

Comparison

Passenger side routing - basically straight until taking a single bend to the brake disk:

Drivers side routing - also basically straight till the single bend to the rotor

Both installed and the FR bezels blocked off:

 

[NELCO]

Looks good but NOW you cannot turn wheels lock to lock. I did a similar one on my 13 GT500 and can only turn the wheel one complete turn in either direction instead of 1.5 turns. If you go farther the inner wheel will rub against your brake cooling duct so be careful.

 

[dmichaels]

Looks good but NOW you cannot turn wheels lock to lock. I did a similar one on my 13 GT500 and can only turn the wheel one complete turn in either direction instead of 1.5 turns. If you go farther the inner wheel will rub against your brake cooling duct so be careful.

I don't have the rubbing issue - it still clears under full lock either way. I'm only on 255's up front. When I get wider tires, I will have to be watchful for sure...

 

[apex32]

Looks good. I've seen lots of complaints with the kit for the 13/14s

 

[dmichaels]

Looks good. I've seen lots of complaints with the kit for the 13/14s

After putting in the new ducting, I now wish I'd never even bothered with the 13/14 Ford Racing setup. Get to try it out in 1 week.

Tried braking hard getting off a couple off ramps today from ~80-40 and the pedal actually does feel a bit better with the SS lines in all 4 corners... could by my imagination, but the pedal really felt more firm. Real test will be at Thompson next week though!!!

 

[wmfateam]

Looks good. What pads and fluid are you running?

 

[dmichaels]

Looks good. What pads and fluid are you running?

Currently on Pagid RST2 fronts, RS56 rears with Castrol SRF fluid.

 

[wmfateam]

Currently on Pagid RST2 fronts, RS56 rears with Castrol SRF fluid.

Where did you purchase your pads from?

 

[dmichaels]

Where did you purchase your pads from?

My friend Pete over on BMO is a vendor for Pagid (and a couple other items.

His website is TrackDaySolutions.com - message him and tell him I referred you and he should get you a reasonable deal. Pagid's aren't cheap (no track pads are I guess), but they have been really good on my car. Rears are wearing a bit fast recently, but I think that's more an issue with the tracks I've been at combined with overheating the fronts which is resulting in biasing more towards the rear and then overworking those... But the pads never fade, rotor wear is excellent, and they EASILY overpower the tires I'm on right now.

I got a great deal on Raybestos ST43 rear pads recently which I'm going to use over the rest of this season though since I chewed through my Pagids quickly at Watkins Glen last month.

 

[dmichaels]

Updated first post with parts list and links to each part for my current setup

Feedback after today: Worked great. Had no issues with the front brakes all day. I have a rear right caliper that is sticking and overheating, so I had to bleed that one caliper after each session, but the fronts were perfect.

I'm happy (overall)

 

[Elwood617]

That is brilliant! I am going to steal this idea

 

[dmichaels]

That is brilliant! I am going to steal this idea

Glad I could inspire! Setup worked well for me through the rest of this past season.

 

[SCALECRAFT]

I had the same issues with my 2014. Hard braking at Fontana speedway ruined slotted/drilled rotors and the factory pads. Factory rotors are in storage.

New high carbon slotted only rotors and Hawk HP plus pads.

Put Kenny brown front brake duct shields and made my own carbon fiber intakes that fit into my lower grill with out modification to the grill. No track pac cooling system. Intakes are in that location

 

[dmichaels]

I've run Hawk HP Plus pads before, in a different car, and I overheated those too. I'd highly recommend a true track pad (like Carbotech XP20, Pagid RS29, Hawk DTC60, etc) if you are pushing the car in a track environment that has heavy braking.

I'd be interested in seeing your carbon fiber intakes - I've started toying with the idea of making some parts myself and would love to see what you've done

 

[SID297]

Looks pretty good.