Okay, guys, fess up: what is YOUR trick to installing a leak free 5.0 rear main seal?:shrug:
Thanks Guys. What I did was: After removing the old seal, I cleaned the crank sealing surface with a 3M pad saturated with brake clean (fine stuff) as well as the block surface. After inspection, I slapped some oil on the seal for the crank surface and a bit of silicone on the block surface. I carefully eased the seal over the crank evenly then pushed the seal into place till I had to use the old seal the tap it in in a 12:00-6:00 then 9:00-3:00. Once it got started I gently did the round the clock till it was seated. I only installed it flush. One reason was my HAYNES manual gave me some wierd reason not to go further. Second, when I got flush it wouldn't go any further and it made that sound like that's as far as it would go. (You know that sound- that solid thud when you know its ON) Kinda strange because I know that there is a bit more space back there. Things that make you go 'hmmmmm'. 50 Miles later and no leaky-leaky. The last time I was leaking big time before I got to work. I really appreciate your input. I searched high and low and even talked to several mechs and everyone has a slightly different method. I NOW have one that works. I don't think I cleaned my surfaces well enough last time.
This raises the obvious question: If the replacement is going to leak anyway, why bother replacing a leaking rear main in the first place?