reattaching brake lines after painting calipers/brake job and having fitment issue

piss&vinegar

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I am in the process of finishing up a front brake job on my car and having an issue with attaching the brake line to the caliper. I can get it on the caliper but when I tighten it down to the 30 ft-lb rating the front wheels will not spin. I did replace the crush washers with washers from Ford. I am using Hawk pads with new stock Brembo rotors. I can make it work using a much smaller crush washer to give me the spacing(while still using the stock crush washer) so the wheel will spin freely(not freely but with normal drag). Anyone else ran into this issue? I did measure the thickness of the new rotor and it is within spec according to the Ford Tech repair manual.

Note: It seems that the bottom of the bolt is pushing on the piston which in turns keeps the front wheel from spinning and I am thinking that I should be able to spin it somewhat but not freely but I can't even turn it by hand with a good amount of force.
 
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mu22stang

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The new thicker rotor will make it hard, if not impossible to turn the wheel/rotor by hand if you did not compress the pistons. Even if you did compress them, there may still be significant resistance. Either way, I'm not sure how the banjo bolt would affect this at all.
 

black 10th vert

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The new thicker rotor will make it hard, if not impossible to turn the wheel/rotor by hand if you did not compress the pistons. Even if you did compress them, there may still be significant resistance. Either way, I'm not sure how the banjo bolt would affect this at all.

I agree. The banjo bolt just goes into the fluid reservoir, it doesn't have anything to do with the pistons (mechanically), so this is not making any sense to me.:??:
 

piss&vinegar

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Thanks for the response but what is happening is when I use new crush washers and then tighten the bolt to spec(30 ft. lbs) the bolts is pressing on the back of one of the pistons and then the pistons pushes on the pad and thus contact the rotor and the wheel will not spin. I am going with the thought that the new pads and/or rotors is just a tad thicker than OEM. I did get new Brambo rotors and Hawk pads. I will find out soon if my idea worked using a small crush washer to pull the bolt off just enough from the piston so that it will spin somewhat.
 

piss&vinegar

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My addition of a smaller crush washer to go along with the 2 other OEM crush washers worked. System is bleed and will be tested sometime this week.
 

piss&vinegar

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Everything turned out great. No issues. Check all connections after road test and no leaking. I do have a question....should the banjo bolt contact the back of the piston when using the proper size crush washer when torqued to the proper torque rating?

To cmefly, thanks for giving your valuable input!!
 

mooch91

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Everything turned out great. No issues. Check all connections after road test and no leaking. I do have a question....should the banjo bolt contact the back of the piston when using the proper size crush washer when torqued to the proper torque rating?

OEM (or new) hose or aftermarket?
 

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