rebuild: what option does everybody take?

fake

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I don't need a rebuild now, as my motor is still running strong with 148k. The previous owner put a lot of hwy miles on her.

Anyways, besides MMR, what are some other places to look at? I would like to start buying parts here and there; so when the times comes, I'm not hit with a huge bill.
 

ZD302GT

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You could get a Mark VIII motor for the teskid block and start building a spare motor. Then, when the time comes you could just switch them out.
 

dlt85

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I don't need a rebuild now, as my motor is still running strong with 148k. The previous owner put a lot of hwy miles on her.

Anyways, besides MMR, what are some other places to look at? I would like to start buying parts here and there; so when the times comes, I'm not hit with a huge bill.

What are your goals? NA or FI? That will dictate a lot of your approach if you are pre-collecting parts. I took the same approach you did in terms of collecting parts, but if you stay NA the process will be much cheaper and easier imo lol. In terms of shortblocks take a look at Livernois Motorsports if you have the funds or time to save up. MMR seems to be hit or miss, but when you are spending thousands, hit or miss shouldn't be good enough if you can help it.
 

fake

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What are your goals? NA or FI? That will dictate a lot of your approach if you are pre-collecting parts. I took the same approach you did in terms of collecting parts, but if you stay NA the process will be much cheaper and easier imo lol. In terms of shortblocks take a look at Livernois Motorsports if you have the funds or time to save up. MMR seems to be hit or miss, but when you are spending thousands, hit or miss shouldn't be good enough if you can help it.

I want to stay N/A. I don't have any plans for anything crazy. 400 rwhp would be a good goal to set.
 
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Midnight_Cobra

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Good rods and pistons, everyone has a different company they like. Reuse your crank and block and go .020 over.
 

fake

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Good rods and pistons, everyone has a different company they like. Reuse your crank and block and go .020 over.

This is what I was thinking about doing. What about the heads? I know a lot of guys go with the "C" heads. I want new parts, if possible.
 

dlt85

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Good rods and pistons, everyone has a different company they like. Reuse your crank and block and go .020 over.

Agree 100%^

and also...c-heads require a different timing cover with the accessory parts all rearranged. I also think the 03 cobra cams are more mild than a stock NA cobra? I'm not positive and maybe someone else might be able to tell you for sure, but I think refreshing and porting B-heads with more aggressive cams would be a great setup. Delete IMRC too while ur at it; prolly wont do anything power wise but at least you know they will never get stuck lol
 
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Midnight_Cobra

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If you want the most "stock" hp. Get C heads and retain your cams and degree them. 96-98 cams, specifically the intake cams have more duration than all over 4v cams. Now we are talking about more money!

Honestly man if you want longevity, get rods and pistons. Bore it .020 over and degree your cams. That would give you 10-20 hp depending on compression ratio and other variables. While still retaining stock drive ability.
 
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encasedmetal

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Agree 100%^

and also...c-heads require a different timing cover with the accessory parts all rearranged. I also think the 03 cobra cams are more mild than a stock NA cobra? I'm not positive and maybe someone else might be able to tell you for sure, but I think refreshing and porting B-heads with more aggressive cams would be a great setup. Delete IMRC too while ur at it; prolly wont do anything power wise but at least you know they will never get stuck lol

C heads do not require a different timing cover. all timing covers for the 4.6 are interchangable. the only reason to pick one over the other depends on if you want to run an eaton or not. running B heads even with aggresive cams won't even be close to 400rwhp.
 

Kiohtee

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What are your goals? NA or FI? That will dictate a lot of your approach if you are pre-collecting parts. I took the same approach you did in terms of collecting parts, but if you stay NA the process will be much cheaper and easier imo lol. In terms of shortblocks take a look at Livernois Motorsports if you have the funds or time to save up. MMR seems to be hit or miss, but when you are spending thousands, hit or miss shouldn't be good enough if you can help it.

Staying NA with hopes of 400rwhp will NOT be cheaper than going FI! I have a built B-headed NA Cobra (full bolt-ons, SRI, milled heads, and custom cams) and I'll be doing good to make 350rwhp.

Looking back, I honestly would just do internals and an on3performance turbo kit with a good tune. That's probably the cheapest 450-500rwhp with brand new parts you'll ever see.
 

dlt85

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C heads do not require a different timing cover. all timing covers for the 4.6 are interchangable. the only reason to pick one over the other depends on if you want to run an eaton or not. running B heads even with aggresive cams won't even be close to 400rwhp.

ah good to know:read::coolman:
 

2rbo97svt

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Staying NA with hopes of 400rwhp will NOT be cheaper than going FI! I have a built B-headed NA Cobra (full bolt-ons, SRI, milled heads, and custom cams) and I'll be doing good to make 350rwhp.

Looking back, I honestly would just do internals and an on3performance turbo kit with a good tune. That's probably the cheapest 450-500rwhp with brand new parts you'll ever see.

^^^agreed on this one. I have a stock bottom end and top with one of these kits and im right at 450rwhp amd 450 tq.
 

98 N/A 4V

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With some mild worked B's, a SRI, and big cams you can get close to 400rwhp. My bolt-on, SRI, and cam only made 355rwhp...with a leaking PS headgasket.
 

jj98cobra

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C heads do not require a different timing cover. all timing covers for the 4.6 are interchangable. the only reason to pick one over the other depends on if you want to run an eaton or not. running B heads even with aggresive cams won't even be close to 400rwhp.

I thought 03/04 timing covers line up on a teksid but there's ONE bolt that doesn't.
 

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