Regular viking double adjustable shocks vs crusaders?

MADRUSSIAN

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Looking to upgrade my rear shocks to get more traction. I rarely bring my car to 1/4 so I'm not concern whole a lot about my 60' ft. All I want is for my car to hook from 40 on up. Car makes around 820 through 2.8 KB and I'm spraying a 100 shot on top of that. All rear suspension components were upgraded besides factory shocks. I run 325 50 15 Mt et street pro and i blow them off from 40 mph.
Will I get major improvement with regular vikings, or do I need to get crusaders?

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RedVenom48

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Viking warriors should be more than enough. Cruisaders are more race oriented for guys needing easier access to swap internal valves and rebuild.

Softer springs like Viking 12DP150s and BPS adjustable rear spring perches should be considered with the swap.

You should also look into LCA relo brackets if you havent got them installed as well.

***edit*** changed race only oriented to race oriented
 
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1st usa car

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This is my goal too -- no concern w/ 1/4 time and launching my car.. I just want to hook up in 3rd and maybe 2nd gear... I think I can get there when I change my tires this Spring... of course I have less power than OP.
 

MADRUSSIAN

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Viking warriors should be more than enough. Cruisaders are more race oriented for guys needing easier access to swap internal valves and rebuild.

Softer springs like Viking 12DP150s and BPS adjustable rear spring perches should be considered with the swap.

You should also look into LCA relo brackets if you havent got them installed as well.

***edit*** changed race only oriented to race oriented
Lca relocation brakets, adjustable lca, uca, panhard bar, bump stops shaved, adjustable anti roll bar....all poly bushings. Ford L springs I belive

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RedVenom48

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Springs are way too hard still i think. The SVTPP and even regular GT500 shocks and springs are too stiff.

The Viking Warriors and their 12DP150 springs will get you the softer rate you need to plant the rear. Even roll racing needs that plant at only a 40 roll. Youll need the BPS ajustable perches to dial in your ride height.
 

SirShaun

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I'm running a very similar setup, Ford L springs, only difference being rod ended adjustable LCAs.

The Viking shocks made a world of difference IMO. I'm not sure you need the drag springs as your only concerned with roll racing. The hit is no where near as brutal.

Viking shocks gave me confidence back when on street tires lol. Street tires hold my car in 3rd, 700whp, when 60+ degrees out. She squats and it works.I think you would have a lot of success with Vikings set at 3C/5R. Felt great and stable at WOT but it made for a bouncy ride when normal cruising, I think due to how stiff I've made the rear. I've been playing with the rebound. Currently at 3/3 but it felt a little loose at 100+, I'm thinking 3/4 will be my happy medium for the street. Drag launches i go higher usually starting at 5/7.

If your still knocking the tires off go lower. If at 0/2 your still shocking the tires, I'd start looking at springs to compliment the shocks. At which point you will most likely need to run higher Compression/Rebound on the shocks.

I've seen @BMR Tech lend some helpful advice in regards to viking shock settings. He could probably provide you a solid starting point.
 
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1st usa car

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The Viking shocks made a world of difference IMO. I'm not sure you need the drag springs as your only concerned with roll racing. The hit is no where near as brutal.

Viking shocks gave me confidence back when on street tires lol. Street tires hold my car in 3rd, 700whp, when 60+ degrees out. She squats and it works.I think you would have a lot of success with Vikings set at 3C/5R. Felt great and stable at WOT but it made for a bouncy ride when normal cruising, I think due to how stiff I've made the rear. I've been playing with the rebound. Currently at 3/3 but it felt a little loose at 100+, I'm thinking 3/4 will be my happy medium for the street. Drag launches i go higher usually starting at 5/7.

I've seen @BMR Tech lend some helpful advice in regards to viking shock settings. He could probably provide you a solid starting point.

If i need some more confidence after i get new rubber -- I'll revisit your post and throw some Vikings on the rear.
 

SirShaun

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If i need some more confidence after i get new rubber -- I'll revisit your post and throw some Vikings on the rear.

You can't go wrong with them. Same suspension setup, at 700whp, I could roll into it in 1st on a 325/50/15 Hoosier DR, 30PSI, no burn out just up to road temp, and it would hook.

On the DR, at the track dumping the clutch at 3500 RPM, dry hooking, I twisted the rear, and locked up the left side before I could make a solid pass at the track. WELD YOUR AXLE TUBES! I've since put a 13/14 rear in it, FRPP Cover, Tru Trac, Moser Axles, and 3.73s but have yet to make a pass. I got a pesky axle seal leak, I need to take care of.

They definitely work alright.

OP I'd be interested to hear about your nitrous setup. Car is probably making 1000whp, 1200 ftlbs running that nitrous through the blower haha. Beast! You bringing it in at WOT, or Progressively? Might have to consider bringing it in progressively. Nitrous makes a shit ton of insta torque.
 
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MADRUSSIAN

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You can't go wrong with them. Same suspension setup, at 700whp, I could roll into it in 1st on a 325/50/15 Hoosier DR, 30PSI, no burn out just up to road temp, and it would hook.

On the DR, at the track dumping the clutch at 3500 RPM, dry hooking, I twisted the rear, and locked up the left side before I could make a solid pass at the track. WELD YOUR AXLE TUBES! I've since put a 13/14 rear in it, FRPP Cover, Tru Trac, Moser Axles, and 3.73s but have yet to make a pass. I got a pesky axle seal leak, I need to take care of.

They definitely work alright.

OP I'd be interested to hear about your nitrous setup. Car is probably making 1000whp, 1200 ftlbs running that nitrous through the blower haha. Beast! You bringing it in at WOT, or Progressively? Might have to consider bringing it in progressively. Nitrous makes a shit ton of insta torque.
Lol I don't think it makes that much. Car made 740rwhp on blower, well, that was on a very conservative Mustang dyno with 17° of timing. I use NOS mini nitrous controller. Since most of my rolls are 60 mph, I don't delay and don't ramp up, just straight 100 shot right of the bet. With 3.27 gears I need that instant hit. Once I figure out rear shocks and springs, I'll practice more with a 40 roll and some dig .....

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Joewee500

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Hooking in 1st with 700whp on a drag radial with 30psi? Do they drag prep the road where you're at? I have these shocks and drag springs and I can light em up in 2nd at 40 no matter what road surface. What settings do you have the shocks set?


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SirShaun

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Hooking in 1st with 700whp on a drag radial with 30psi? Do they drag prep the road where you're at? I have these shocks and drag springs and I can light em up in 2nd at 40 no matter what road surface. What settings do you have the shocks set?


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Hoosier DR's are an impressive tire. I doubt my settings are going to help you because I am running FRPP Lowering Springs, your drag spring are probably a lot softer.

I was probably running 5C/7R last time I was on a DR. I'm still putting around on 3/3 at the moment. X/+2 works great for the track/street but it's bumpy.
 

SirShaun

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In hindsight, the first time I rolled into it in first on the Hoosier DR, it surprisingly hooked, and I heard a loud pop. Brushed it off as it was nothing. The next time I heard that pop, my axle tube shifted and I put the rear tire into the quarter panel at the track. My guess is that it was the axle tube shifting or breaking loose each time.

I cannot stress welding your axle tubes enough guys. I wish I would of heeded the warnings and saved myself from needing a new rearend prematurely. I miss how quiet the stock rear was lol.
 

avgt500

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You need antisquat to hook, no matter from a dig or roll, I lower my car for crusing around on the street, it spins no matter what I have my Vikings at with 555dr's, now when I go to the track I raise up my springs so it is at a little higher then stock, looks goofy but I get back my antisquat and hook, even on zero prep.
When you lower these it points the uca down, turning antisquat into squat, killing traction, I have #150 springs on the rear with BPS adjustable perches and QA1 coilovers on the front, I have 175# springs on the front but I think its too soft to raise at launch so I'm going to 225's in the front, hope this helps you for roll racing.
p.s. even with the BMR lca reloation brackets set at the lowest hole with the car lowered you will have squat, it just shortens up your instant center.
 

outlaw105w

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my combo is strange s/a on the front with bmr drag springs, rear are dead hookers with viking d/a , with the bmr anti roll with preload 3.6kb with 866rwhp she squats and hooks pretty hard with 15" MT and she hooks just as good with the 20" 305 MT
 

avgt500

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How much timing did you pull for the 100 shot? I'm running a 50 shot and didn't touch the timing and was thinking about putting the 100 jets in, just curious how much timing if any I should pull.
Lol I don't think it makes that much. Car made 740rwhp on blower, well, that was on a very conservative Mustang dyno with 17° of timing. I use NOS mini nitrous controller. Since most of my rolls are 60 mph, I don't delay and don't ramp up, just straight 100 shot right of the bet. With 3.27 gears I need that instant hit. Once I figure out rear shocks and springs, I'll practice more with a 40 roll and some dig .....

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RedVenom48

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I cannot stress welding your axle tubes enough guys. I wish I would of heeded the warnings and saved myself from needing a new rearend prematurely. I miss how quiet the stock rear was lol.

The rear end definitely needs improvement. It is my opinion that a Swarr bar or CHE brace is a better option than welding the tubes. I think a fairly thin metal tube like our axle tubes isnt enough to count on from twisting, even with the best weld job.

The Swarr or CHE brace at least ties all the pieces together to a sturdy bar. If you get the tubes welded as a secondary security measure rather than rely on it alone, then thats a great bonus.
 
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MADRUSSIAN

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How much timing did you pull for the 100 shot? I'm running a 50 shot and didn't touch the timing and was thinking about putting the 100 jets in, just curious how much timing if any I should pull.
My timing is not aggressive at all on boost only. Just 17°. Most guys run 21-24° on e. So being that it's only 17°, I don't touch timing at all. Data logged nitrous hit, played around with fuel jet to change afr a bit, less lean. I think it's like .82-.85 labda which is more on a rich side. Car runs like a rapped ape with it, cools down afr2 as well.

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