In all the posts I've read people are replacing the upper control arm but nobody mentions replacing the diff bushings. It looks like all the different upper control arms come with the front bushing (poly) but what about the rear? Is it just implied or is everyone leaving the stock diff bushing? I plan on doing J&M upper and lowers with the poly-ball. Should I get the poly upper diff bushing too or are the factory ones stiff enough? I don't see too many places even selling that one.
Replace upper diff bushings when doing uca?
- Thread starter jimh
- Start date
you have to press out the UCA chunk bushing. It isnt easy and from what I was told needs a special tool. I do have the energy suspension replacement but havent put it in yet.
The bushing shell does make for a tight fit.
I found that out when adding the factory bushing to the FRPP 3.73 axle assembly I slipped into place last year.
It didn't take long to see that even a chilled bushing, glazed in pinch of anti-seize and a smattering of assembly lube, wasn't going to take to being tapped in either - no matter how squarely it was driven or however warm the cast iron differential housing was. So I instead employed a length of 5/8" all thread, a couple of nuts and washers, and I was able to draw the bushing into place. Creative use of a two jaw puller would probably work as well.
That said, I wouldn't change the housing to arm bushing. It is a much higher durometer than the large diameter bushing at the front of the upper arm. It'll last years longer than any polyurethane bushing and perform admirably, whether you change the rest of the bushings or not.
Tob
I found that out when adding the factory bushing to the FRPP 3.73 axle assembly I slipped into place last year.
It didn't take long to see that even a chilled bushing, glazed in pinch of anti-seize and a smattering of assembly lube, wasn't going to take to being tapped in either - no matter how squarely it was driven or however warm the cast iron differential housing was. So I instead employed a length of 5/8" all thread, a couple of nuts and washers, and I was able to draw the bushing into place. Creative use of a two jaw puller would probably work as well.
That said, I wouldn't change the housing to arm bushing. It is a much higher durometer than the large diameter bushing at the front of the upper arm. It'll last years longer than any polyurethane bushing and perform admirably, whether you change the rest of the bushings or not.
Tob
Install looks easy enough but removal must be a real bitch.
Thanks! That's exactly the info I was looking for. Since the rear is still in the car, that bushing is obviously stiff enough. 
Time to place my order.
Time to place my order.Users who are viewing this thread
