Replacing 95 R Rear Main Seal

[StillIntense]

Hello all, new 95 R owner here (#86) with questions about replacing the rear main seal.
1. I can access after removing trans/clutch/flywheel?
2. Any special tools to remove or replace?
3. Any tricks or "watch out for this"?

I'm also putting on a Canton road race pan at the same time. Thanks in advance for your help.....

 

[Cobra R Man]

You CAN get to the rear main seal by removing the trans-flywheel. Get a Felpro seal, and FOLLOW the instructions in the box. If it says NOT to put any lubricant on the seal, it means DRY. Some say dry, and some say lubricate. Just follow the instructions in the box.

You can use a pick or flat screwdriver to pry it out. Some seals have a plastic installation tool in the box, some don't. If yours doesn't, use a feeler gage (.010-.015) to help get it around the crank. It should fit around the crank before you drive it in the block.

Do not use a one piece oil pan gasket(original), with a Canton oil pan. They usually put a note in the box, to use a Felpro 4-piece oil pan gasket.
Make sure the Canton pan has a bulge on the pan rail(where it meets the block) to accomidate the oil stick tube hole, if your block has this.

 

[cobra186]

If you are installing a Canton Pan... you might as well just pull the engine out of the chassis. It can be done while still in but it is a very tight fit... you will have to raise the motor up a good 5-6 inches which means just about everything will have to be disconnected anyways. Engine removal will make the pan(& pickup tube) and main seal swap a breeze rather than fighting it in cramped spaces.

1) Yes you can access the main seal by removing the H-pipe,D/S, trans, clutch & flywheel.
2) No special tools required
3) No tricks... just becareful not to scar the crank where the seal rides, don't pinch/rip the seal when installing, make sure you put the seal in the correct way (i.e. not backwards)... I always put a little oil on the seal where it rides on the crank then carefully tap it in as you go around the perimeter of the seal.

 

[StillIntense]

Thanks for the great advice! I'll let you know how it turns out after this weekend (hopefully).

 

[tomshep]

Here is a trick I can share. The seal is a PITA to get in. It is a pretty tight fit. To get even pressure on it I found a race for a bearing at a local shop that fit the seal perfectly. Using this I could put the seal in position, then the race and I put a 2x4 across the race and hammered it in place. Worked very well.

Honestly, I don't think you will be able to put that pan in without pulling the motor. You will need to drop the k-member or raise the motor with a motor puller to get the clearance you need. Just pull the motor.

I ended up running the canton dipstick for the pan instead of the OEM type dipstick. I just put a dab of silicone in the hole in the block.

Fun project. Enjoy.

Tom

 

[StillIntense]

Well, didn't get to it this weekend. Had a friend come over (the one who will help me with this) and we came to the same conclusion: the engine will need to be pulled, or at least raised considerably. I can hardly wait (not).....did get the gaskets prepped and on the oil pan (four piece per Canton's recommendation). Also have the Canton dipstick. By the way, this all came about because one of the previous owners before Sargent1 had removed the factory dipstick and welded the opening for it in the factory oil pan closed. I would rather know what my oil level is.....and the Canton is good insurance. Canton (the company) was great by the way, the oil pan is a 7 quart road race pan with baffles and a scraper (rear kick outs).
By the way, can anyone tell me what my new oil requirement is: Canton says 7 quarts with their pan and the filter; what additional requirement is in the cooler? It's the original cooler. I'm guessing about 8 quarts total.....
Thanks again for the great advice, I'll keep all of you informed. Mark

 

[Cobra R Man]

Canton oil pan....

Does your new pan have the drain plug, in the rear sump, facing to the front( where it will drain on the K-member? If Canton hasn't changed that, you might want to have an additional drain plug installed to the rear of the pan(less oil mess in K-member that drips for days) before installation.

Just a FYI thought,

Gene Boc.

 

[StillIntense]

Gene, my Canton pan has both a front drain and another on the passenger side kickout on the rear. The front drain plug is on the front edge of the pan well forward of the k member.

On another note: didn't 95 Cobra Rs have a decal on one of the valve covers from the Cleveland Engine plant? If so, where was it located? My valve covers have been repainted and I wanted to replace the sticker. A picture showing this decal would be very helpful. Mark

 

[StillIntense]

Oh, and to be more specific, the rear drain plug faces the side of the car; doesn't seem to be an issue with the k-member.

 

[tomshep]

Gene, my Canton pan has both a front drain and another on the passenger side kickout on the rear. The front drain plug is on the front edge of the pan well forward of the k member.

On another note: didn't 95 Cobra Rs have a decal on one of the valve covers from the Cleveland Engine plant? If so, where was it located? My valve covers have been repainted and I wanted to replace the sticker. A picture showing this decal would be very helpful. Mark

When I saw your car at Nashville it didn't have the R valve covers on it. That is odd the valve covers were gone and a prior owner had also messed with the oil pan. I wonder what all of that means?

Yes, there was a decal on there and it is for sale on ebay for a few bucks.

Tom

 

[PETSNKE]

A picture showing this decal would be very helpful.

Performance Parts Inc. still has the Cleveland Engine Plant decals in stock for $10

 

[StillIntense]

As for the valve covers, when I bought the car the originals were back on it (and refinished) thanks to Sarge (Chris). He did a lot to get the car squared away.
I am curious as to what it means as well, but everything seems to be generally in order so far.
Where does the decal from the Cleveland Engine plant actually go (which valve cover, front or back, etc)? Thanks again all! Mark

 

[ShelbyGuy]

Does this mean that all the big engine parts should have a CF foundry mark on them?

What does a Windsor foundry mark look like? Nearly all my early model experience is with FE engines, most of which were cast at DIF.

 

[birdman941]

Your engine comes with an installation tool.
The old seal.
Turn it around and use a dead blow and tap it in evenly
if you do not have access to the correct tool.