Replacing Front Struts

uofipilot

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I can't find the write-up i looked at a while back. Can someone either post the link or confirm what I think I remember?

1. Loosen top nut on struts.
2. Remove wheels.
3. Remove brakes (calipers and rotors)
4. Loosen two bolts that hold the strut to the spindle.
5. Support bottom of A-Arm with floor jack.
6. Remove top nut.
7. Remove bottom bolts.
8. Slowly lower jack and let A-Arm down.
9. Remove old strut.
10. Installation is basically the reverse.

Just want to make sure I have the right idea before I go do this.

Thanks.
 

uofipilot

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Yeah, I kind of figured I wouldn't have to, but it will probably be easier to get at the bolts that way. I'll see how stubborn they're gonna be.
 

Cookieman00x

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step 1 Lift the front end of the car with a floor jack, and support the control arms with jack stands. Use a tire iron to remove the nuts so you can remove the front wheels. Use a ratchet to pull the nuts off the brake caliper gripping the rotors, and remove it. Unbolt the bracket holding the wheel speed sensor in the wheel hub.

Step 2 Use a wrench to remove the nuts holding the upper side of the strut assembly, which looks like a coiled spring with hardware on either end, to the frame. Remove the bolts holding the assembly to the wheel spindle behind the wheel hub. Compress the strut with a compressor, and pull it out of the wheel well. Remove the upper mounting bracket from the strut, and mount it on the new one.

Step 3 Position the strut assembly in the wheel well and hand-bolt it to the wheel spindle. Remove the compressor, and twist the dial on the torque wrench to 141 ft-lb. Tighten the bolt at the bottom of the strut to the spindle with the torque wrench until it gives slightly.

Step 4 Install the upper retaining nuts, and torque them to 25 ft-lb. Bolt down the bracket for the speed sensor. Put the brake caliper back on, and mount the front wheels. Lower the front end of the car and have a professional align it.

Replace the Rear Shocks in a Mustang

Step 1 Remove the trim panels in the trunk to gain access to the shocks.

Step 2 Ratchet off the upper retaining nut and the bolt connecting the shock absorber to the shock tower. Pull the shock out through the hole in the trunk.

Step 3 Extend and depress the new shock absorber fully a few times. Position it through the hole in the trunk, and torque the bolt connecting it to the shock tower to 57 ft-lb. In the SVT Cobra model, torque it to 98 ft-lb. Tighten the upper mounting nut to 25 ft-lb with the torque wrench.

Step 4 Put the trim panels back in the trunk as they were initially.


Source:

How to Replace the Shocks and Struts in a Ford Mustang | eHow.com
 

uofipilot

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OK, so how do you get the top nut of the strut? I got everything else undone and the two big bolt at the bottom are loosened up. The design of the stock strut is retarded. How are you supposed to both hold the strut piston stationary and loosen the nut? I tried using a screwdriver in the slot, which kind of worked, but what do you do when you get the nut to the top? Any advice would be appreciated.

And also, has anyone ever removed the rotor shield behind the rotors? That piece of shit is held on with three fasteners that I have no idea how to remove. The rear shields were just little bolts. These front one are some type of fastener that have a circular head that simply bend/crush when you touch them. Go Ford. I don't need to take them off, but I took the rotors off to have more access. I figured if I could figure out how to take off the calipers and rotors, I could manage a little dust shield. Guess not.
 

19mustang95

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the dust shields are riveted on, you have to cutoff the rivets to remove it. and for me, when the nut is that high, it can usually be taken off by hand, try spraying some WD-40/PBblaster on it
 

uofipilot

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the dust shields are riveted on, you have to cutoff the rivets to remove it. and for me, when the nut is that high, it can usually be taken off by hand, try spraying some WD-40/PBblaster on it

Its things like this that make me wonder about Ford sometimes. Why the hell would those be riveted? It makes no sense to me. Maybe theres a good reason and I just don't know it. I suppose cost could be an issue, but I could find a few other places on this car where they could have save half a penny. :bash:

And I've been giving it healthy doses of PB Blaster. That stuff works miracles.


to remove the strut top bolt your best bet is to use an impact gun and zip it right off.

That's what I was thinking. I almost went and bout an impact before I started this afternoon. But would an impact get it off, or would the piston just spin in the strut?
 

venomous99

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it most definitely would get the nut off as long as u have enough torque...i used a 400ft/lb air impact to get it off.
 

uofipilot

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it most definitely would get the nut off as long as u have enough torque...i used a 400ft/lb air impact to get it off.

Cool. Thanks for the help. I might just go buy one tomorrow. Just out of curiosity, is the 400 ft/lb gun good enough for most garage jobs? I was looking at the 400 Craftsman HD today, and I think thats the one I'll go with.
 

uofipilot

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And now I'm getting more confused with everything I'm reading about this. Do I have to take of the two nuts and one bolt surrounding the top of the strut, or just the one nut that's actually on the top threads on the strut? I thought it was just the one, but some of the stuff I'm reading says remove the three others (like the how-to posted in this thread).
 

venomous99

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id say it doesnt hurt to oversize it..a 500ft/lb i would think should cover everything on your car including the suspension bolts..
 

venomous99

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no problem..u wont regret getting a nice air impact. ull end up collecting different air tools after and will wonder y it took so long to get these fine tools. haha
 

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