REVISED VMP 160mm TB for Gen 3 - Anyone using it?

[1 Alibi 2]

FRPP mono, been on the car ( 2011 ) since Feb. 2012, street tuned.

Been on the car ( 2014 ) since June 2014, street tuned.

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" I think Lund Jr or Sr needs to do the tuning and it will work perfect, No one has more experience than Sr and I think if he spent some time with it he could make them work. "
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My tuner has more experience, been doing it longer, & used to work for Ford,.....as a tuner !!

 

[boduke0220]

Also makes me wonder if there isn't a bad batch of throttle bodies out there. No one really talked about these issues 1-2 years ago did they?

 

[RBB]

FRPP mono, been on the car ( 2011 ) since Feb. 2012, street tuned.

Been on the car ( 2014 ) since June 2014, street tuned.

.
" I think Lund Jr or Sr needs to do the tuning and it will work perfect, No one has more experience than Sr and I think if he spent some time with it he could make them work. "
.
My tuner has more experience, been doing it longer, & used to work for Ford,.....as a tuner !!

I've never heard of anyone having problems with the FRPP monoblade. It's a smaller blade, and more in line with what the factory electronics can accomodate under all conditions. Lund has tuned them countless times as well. You get into the failsafe issues when you move to the big bore monos.

 

[RBB]

Actually I agree with you on the mechanical possibility, but I think there’s a common trend in what triggers the failsafe, and if the Tuners can desensitize whatever that parameter is, more chance of success.
From a mechanical standpoint the size, weight, surface area of the big monos may be too close to the edge of that failsafe trigger than what current TB motors can control.
My experiences:
1) BPS twin 73 (off of Sylvain’s personal car so I could race at NMRA—huge customer service props) was fine until car was heat soaked and then would surge, but no failsafe, Lund tune
2) Whipple 170 custom tune Lidio at Alternative Auto, never a hiccup
3) VMP173 bolted onto Gen 3 with same tune as Gen2R with same tune, idled and started perfect but failsafe less than one block away
4) KB168 removed 173 and used a Hasty adapter to bolt onto Gen 3, no tune changes and perfect, just like Whipple 170
I’m in possession of a new revised 173, so will update soon.
-J

I agree with this statement. Looking at my datalogs, it seems that the failsafe is triggered when the delta between Throttle Angle Actual and Throttle Angle Desired goes above 6. I don't know if they can desensitize that trigger or not, or what kind of negative impact it would have if the TB actually did become stuck. Maybe the time that the delta can exist before the failsafe triggers could be slightly increased? I'm no tuner, so who knows.

Willie was saying that the dashpot parameter can be changed to take care of this. He did it himself on his own tune, but it took many revisions, which I'm sure LR isn't interested in doing to each individual car trying to run a big mono.

 

[2011 gtcs]

Well I just got my start up tune from the 160 from Lund, Alex is my Calibrator. The T/B will be here tomorrow, I'll update you guys on how it goes. I don't have any expectations at this point, if it doesn't...which I'm sure it won't, I'll just ask VMP to take it back and I'll get a twin 69.

 

[RBB]

Well I just got my start up tune from the 160 from Lund, Alex is my Calibrator. The T/B will be here tomorrow, I'll update you guys on how it goes. I don't have any expectations at this point, if it doesn't...which I'm sure it won't, I'll just ask VMP to take it back and I'll get a twin 69.

Good luck buddy, hope it works out for you. I was able to get through my initial idle and cruise logs with the 160. If you get through those successfully, take the car for a 10-15 minute drive. Kill the engine and let it sit for awhile, get it nice and heatsoaked. Start it back up and try to drive it, the 160 was failing on me at that point. I'd say if your's passes that test you're good to go, at least for the time being.

 

[2011 gtcs]

Good luck buddy, hope it works out for you. I was able to get through my initial idle and cruise logs with the 160. If you get through those successfully, take the car for a 10-15 minute drive. Kill the engine and let it sit for awhile, get it nice and heatsoaked. Start it back up and try to drive it, the 160 was failing on me at that point. I'd say if your's passes that test you're good to go, at least for the time being.

I will keep you posted, fingers crossed

 

[1 Alibi 2]

I've never heard of anyone having problems with the FRPP monoblade. It's a smaller blade, and more in line with what the factory electronics can accomodate under all conditions. Lund has tuned them countless times as well. You get into the failsafe issues when you move to the big bore monos.

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Numerous threads on this site, T/B, tune, or a combo of both.
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[2011 gtcs]

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Numerous threads on this site, T/B, tune, or a combo of both.
.

Yeah the SCJ mono blades are very hit and miss, as are all mono blades lol, I've had a SCJ mono blade that drove amazing, and I've had one that wouldn't work at all. All depends on if you get lucky or how good your tuner is.

 

[2011 gtcs]

I put the vmp 160 on last night and loaded up the base tune from Alex. overall the car drove decent and idled great. The throttle response just feels kinda lazy, and after driving it for a little I did get a dead pedal but I just restarted the car and it was fine again. overall I have some hope.
here is a picture showing how big it is compared to the FRPP 65mm

 

[RBB]

I put the vmp 160 on last night and loaded up the base tune from Alex. overall the car drove decent and idled great. The throttle response just feels kinda lazy, and after driving it for a little I did get a dead pedal but I just restarted the car and it was fine again. overall I have some hope.
here is a picture showing how big it is compared to the FRPP 65mm
View attachment 1575846

Did you get logs done? Let it sit for a while and start it back up and attempt to drive?

 

[2011 gtcs]

Did you get logs done? Let it sit for a while and start it back up and attempt to drive?

I'm going to datalog when I get home. I drove it around for about 10 minutes and it ran decent for the most part, when I go log tonight I'm going to drive it a lot and see if I can get it to mess up.

 

[2011 gtcs]

Just giving everyone a little update, I completed all my logs last night and driveability overall is good. But once the 160 T/B gets heat soaked after 20 minutes of driving I get dead pedal and have no throttle response. From what it looks like according to the logs the blade is sticking so it's still a mechanical issue. I've already talked to Justin Starkey and he's looking into it. Hopefully we can figure out what the final fix will be.

 

[ozzygt500]

what happened im also wanted to put a big throttle in my gen3 , are they working good or still they are failing? thanks

 

[RBB]

Never could get mine to work. Drove great until it got hot then it would stick every time.

 

[Catmonkey]

They no longer list it on their website.

 

[biminiLX]

I would personally never own a 160/173.
I have been having great luck with my new VMP 163R TB.
Whipple big 170
KB168
VMP 163R
All equally good to me from personal experience
-J

 

[biminiLX]

New heat sink clip ons seem to do the trick.
If you have a problematic TB after heat soak of any make, I’d try this first.
Came with my 163R but it’s a common RC car motor heat sink
-J

 

[2011 gtcs]

what happened im also wanted to put a big throttle in my gen3 , are they working good or still they are failing? thanks

Yeah the VMP160 was a complete failure, I'm about to put a KB168 on my Gen3 TVS, if you want to do a big mono blade I'd just use the 168.

 

[2011 gtcs]

New heat sink clip ons seem to do the trick.
If you have a problematic TB after heat soak of any make, I’d try this first.
Came with my 163R but it’s a common RC car motor heat sink
-J
View attachment 1639129 View attachment 1639131

Not a bad idea, I remember running those when I use to race RC cars. I probably still have a couple laying around somewhere.