Anyone drill their dark stars? I don't really see anyone on here drilling their wheels or may be no one is talking about it. I'm thinking of doing it but does anyone do it with street legal tires? Some people I've read on other forums are glueing the tires to the rims with high tac. I have 15x10 dark stars with 275/60r15 and would like to lower the pressure to 10-12 psi. at the strip but I'm a little concerned.
Rim drilling
- Thread starter scotsam
- Start date
Not sure how helpful this will be, but I bought mine already drilled. The guy explained it to me and give me a couple extra screws. They're pretty small, basically a carpenter screw if I remember correctly. I think there's 8 or 9 screws in each one.
The wheel is the Jegs Sport Star, 15x8 with a 275/60 M&H radial. I've never dropped the pressure as low are you're wanting but it holds really well at around 16 or so pounds. The track I run at has terrible prep, ie non at all, so I'm not worried at all of it hooking too much and moving on the rim.
The wheel is the Jegs Sport Star, 15x8 with a 275/60 M&H radial. I've never dropped the pressure as low are you're wanting but it holds really well at around 16 or so pounds. The track I run at has terrible prep, ie non at all, so I'm not worried at all of it hooking too much and moving on the rim.
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How much power at the wheels? I don't need screws/locks and have not had issues. See signature for details.
REALLY BAD idea to drill a drag radial.
A bias-ply slick is fine, racers have been doing for years.
There have been some very expensive and dangerous examples of tire bead/sidewall failure from screwing a DR.
The specialized rim glue is a good option or just try the tire first and mark it to see if you even need to worry.
The '13-14 GT500 wheel has serrations on the inside bead to help the tire adhere.
In your case don't screw the DR even though the rims have been drilled.
Beadlocks are recommended for extreme DR use, unlikely you'll need anything honestly.
-J
A bias-ply slick is fine, racers have been doing for years.
There have been some very expensive and dangerous examples of tire bead/sidewall failure from screwing a DR.
The specialized rim glue is a good option or just try the tire first and mark it to see if you even need to worry.
The '13-14 GT500 wheel has serrations on the inside bead to help the tire adhere.
In your case don't screw the DR even though the rims have been drilled.
Beadlocks are recommended for extreme DR use, unlikely you'll need anything honestly.
-J
The car is going to have slicks on it at some point. Currently on drag radials. I don't have a lot of experience with drag radials. We used to screw the slicks all the time I was just wondering about drag radials.
Definitely, I understand.
No worries screwing the slicks or bias-ply like ET Streets, just don't do it on the drag radials.
I think the bias-ply is best for this car at the track as its a heavy/clutch car, but I drive on the street on DRs; just requires 2 rear wheel sets.
-J
So what should I do when it comes time to change tires? I plan on sticking with a radial but going to the MT Radial Pro. Can I just mount it with the open holes in the rim or is that a no-no?
Yes, good example as thats what we did. My brother bought used drilled Prostars. He ran Hoosier QTPs and they moved after checking a few launches and he used the screws. He then just switched to the 275 MT Pro radials and no screws. Tire is a bad bad MF too, highly recommended. Use high tack or 'rim glue' with the radials if you're worried.
Also BTW Mickey T just changed some of their naming of tires, they have several radial slicks and IMO it's a bit confusing now until we learn their new naming system.
-J
Also BTW Mickey T just changed some of their naming of tires, they have several radial slicks and IMO it's a bit confusing now until we learn their new naming system.
-J
fwiw I screw my radials on the inside with beadlocks on the outside. For several years i had screws on both sides with out any issues. Only problems i have heard is that it weakens the bead after a while. Lot of the x275 guys doing it. As other mentioned "hi tack" glue works well too.
Not trying to tell you your business but 10-12 psi is not gonna do good on a drag radial, just gonna wad up and deform in the middle. I run 17-17.5 psi with 1.25 60 fts
Not trying to tell you your business but 10-12 psi is not gonna do good on a drag radial, just gonna wad up and deform in the middle. I run 17-17.5 psi with 1.25 60 fts
Thanks I'll keep those pressures in mind. I'm used to slicks. Wasn't real sure about the pressures with drag radials.
Cool, thanks. I've heard nothing but great things about that 275 Radial Pro. I'm almost hoping the current M&H's wear out soon so I can make the switch. I'll have to look to be sure, but I think it's drilled on both sides of the rim...is there anything I can use to fill the holes after I take the screws out?
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