Road Racing a 01 Cobra. What I have, What I need.

[JTStreet]

I am currently building my 2001 Cobra to be used as a road racing application, and I'm curious as to what else I should consider for the vehicle.


Current (relevant) Modifications

Engine
03-04 Cobra IAC
03-04 Cobra Maf connector
60# Injectors
MAF SCT BA2600
Jegs oil separator
SPEC Stage 1 Clutch
SPEC Billet Aluminum Flywheel
Ford Racing throwout bearing
Ford Racing pilot ring
MGW short throw shifter
DSS forged pistons 11:1 compression
Eagle forged rods h-beam
Kellogg Saleen forged crank
Ford Racing FR500 high life camshaft kit
Livernois valve springs
Basani catback exhaust
BBK Full Length Ceramic Headers
BBK Off-Road X-Pipe
JLT carbon fiber CAI
Motive 4.30 Gears
Canton Road Racing Oil Pan with Windage Tray

Suspension / Brakes
Maximum Motorsports Front bump steer kit
QA1 tubular A arms
QA1 coil over kit
Rear shock mounts
Maximum Motorsports Rear IRS bump steer kit
Steeda ball joints
Maximum Motorsports sway bar end links
QA1 K member
H&R lowering springs
Bilstein shocks
Billet flow differential brace
Spring isolators
Rack bushings
Hawk HPS brake pads
Centric premium rotors (Slotted)
Russell steel braided brake lines
Full-Tilt Boogie IRS Bushing Kit
Full-Length Subframe Connector

Modifications I think would be beneficial

- Some sort of front brake cooling kit. What do you guys recommend?
- How much should I consider a LSD?
- How much should I consider a differential cooler?

What else isn't mentioned in which I should consider?

The car will primarily be tracked in the southeast, so I believe I should take the higher track temperatures into considerations. The last thing I want is a mechanical failure due to heat. What can I do to make this car as reliable as possible for track events? What other performance parts should I consider? Thanks for all your help!

 

[99COBRA2881]

QA1? do they make a road race k member now? I thought all their stuff was lightweight drag race stuff.

 

[JTStreet]

QA1? do they make a road race k member now? I thought all their stuff was lightweight drag race stuff.

I purchased the car with a lot of parts already installed. One could assume this is not a dedicated road racing K Member. With that in mind, should I consider a different K Member, or will the QA1 suffice?

 

[Sirl]

Have you ever been to an HPDE before?

See, here's the thing. Everyone will tell you that the best thing to do is to take a stock, or, close to stock car out in the beginning. This way, you get the feel for whats going on, and you can grow with the car, make changes as you feel you need to.

In the beginning, all one would say to do is to change all fluids, install some better quality brake pads, and go have fun. With a car like your posting... I cant even begin to tell you what you should or shouldnt do.

I would not buy a QA1 for the track, but, since the car already has it, I would not change it, just to do an event, and see how it works out. Also, a call to QA1 would not hurt.. Ask one of their techs if they feel it will hold up to the stress of road racing.

So, if this is your car, and I see its got Hawk HPS pads... those are really street pads. They may or may not get your through a full weekend, depending on how hard you drive. Only thing I would recommend is changing the pads for something a little more aggressive, like the HP+. From there, just drive the car, listen to your instructor and just get your feet wet... After say, 5-6 events, you may start to find the limitations in the car, and then address them.

My .02. Others may have a different opinion.

Good luck, have fun, and again listen to you instructor!!

 

[MFE]

You're going to want way more capable pads than HPS for a car that fast and that heavy. HP+ at a minimum, maybe Carbotech XP10s instead.

Yes, as you pick up speed you should greatly consider an oil cooler and probably a diff cooler, but those are $$

 

[Blown 89]

Keep an eye on that QA1....I have one on my 01 and cracked a weld near the a-arm mount. They're definitely not ideal for road racing.

 

[99COBRA2881]

Why 60# injectors? Seem like over kill for the engine combo you've posted. A set of 39# inj. and 90mm maf will work great for that setup.

 

[JTStreet]

So, if this is your car, and I see its got Hawk HPS pads... those are really street pads. They may or may not get your through a full weekend, depending on how hard you drive. Only thing I would recommend is changing the pads for something a little more aggressive, like the HP+.

You're going to want way more capable pads than HPS for a car that fast and that heavy. HP+ at a minimum, maybe Carbotech XP10s instead.

I plan on having a set of HP+ pads to replace the HPS's when I burn through them, which shouldn't take long.

Keep an eye on that QA1....I have one on my 01 and cracked a weld near the a-arm mount. They're definitely not ideal for road racing.

Good to know. Who makes a good road racing K Member, should the QA1 fail?

Why 60# injectors? Seem like over kill for the engine combo you've posted. A set of 39# inj. and 90mm maf will work great for that setup.

The car was previously turbo'd. I decided on a nice N/A build for road courses.

 

[wheelhopper]

I almost avoided commenting because there are several of these threads already in this forum. But, it is sleeting and I am sitting here so what the heck.

Swap the brake pads now. One of the worst feelings on the track is hitting the brakes and nothing happening. Better off wasting the $50 of HPS pads you have left.

I don't really think your car is built for a road course, but neither was mine when I first started. Just make sure it is reliable and safe. Before and after each event inspect the cars suspension and brakes thoroughly. As your skills improve you'll need to make changes.

When time comes for a new K member I would go with MM. I did use a UPR K member for several years and through HPDE3 on my Terminator. Most people thought I was crazy, but I checked with UPR and inspected it every event. UPR said it would be fine and it was.

 

[TXPD]

what is the specific definition for "road racing application"??

 

[JTStreet]

I almost avoided commenting because there are several of these threads already in this forum. But, it is sleeting and I am sitting here so what the heck.

Swap the brake pads now. One of the worst feelings on the track is hitting the brakes and nothing happening. Better off wasting the $50 of HPS pads you have left.

I don't really think your car is built for a road course, but neither was mine when I first started. Just make sure it is reliable and safe. Before and after each event inspect the cars suspension and brakes thoroughly. As your skills improve you'll need to make changes.

When time comes for a new K member I would go with MM. I did use a UPR K member for several years and through HPDE3 on my Terminator. Most people thought I was crazy, but I checked with UPR and inspected it every event. UPR said it would be fine and it was.

Thanks for the input! HP+ pads will be installed shortly, and I also plan on a Torsen T2R and differential cooler down the road, and brake cooling ducts in the very near future. You mentioned you don't feel my car is built for a road course. Could you please expand?

what is the specific definition for "road racing application"??

This is going to be a weekend track enjoyment car. I do not plan on wheel-to-wheel competition -- strictly HPDE events and the like.

 

[wheelhopper]

Simply that the QA1 products and 4.30 gears are more of what you would see on a car built for the drag strip.

I do think your injectors are overkill and a set of factory Terminator injectors would be better.

 

[99COBRA2881]

Meh if he wants to fill a shot glass with a fire hose let him.

 

[JTStreet]

Simply that the QA1 products and 4.30 gears are more of what you would see on a car built for the drag strip.

I do think your injectors are overkill and a set of factory Terminator injectors would be better.

The 60# injectors were replaced with 39#'s during the turbo to N/A conversion. Once the QA1 proves to be a limiting or detrimental factor, I will look into alternatives.

 

[JTStreet]

Meh if he wants to fill a shot glass with a fire hose let him.

Believe me, I totally understand where you're coming from, and I appreciate your opinion on the subject. I've replied in length in the other thread you posted in.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Did you get the 4.30s out of there yet? Those are going to suck on the track.

Also you probably won't need a diff cooler for a long time. Just make sure you can drain the gear oil by drilling a hole in the housing or getting a diff cover with a drain plug.

 

[JTStreet]

Did you get the 4.30s out of there yet? Those are going to suck on the track.

Also you probably won't need a diff cooler for a long time. Just make sure you can drain the gear oil by drilling a hole in the housing or getting a diff cover with a drain plug.

I actually just got rid of the stock gears for the 4.30's. The track I will be frequenting is not a particularly fast track, so I believe the 4.30's will (hopefully) put me at the top of 4th gear on the longest straight before having to brake for the turn.

At least, I hope so. We'll see.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

It still sounds like you are assembling this car with a drag racing mentality. Remember the car is going to be at high RPM all the time out on track. It does not need to be revved within an inch of its life to be fast.

Where does power start to fall off with your cams?

If your redline is 7000 that is only about 123 MPH in 4th. You are going to be spending a lot of time shifting in the infield. If you ever have to shift into 5th the power is going to fall off a lot because of the overdrive gearing. I am assuming you have not swapped in a close ratio 5th gear or anything like that. The car does have torque so you won't have to get every last RPM out of it like you would a miata or s2000.

I like to be able to get to 135-140 in 4th. My track car has 3.73s and a 7000 RPM redline but I typically shift at 6600-6700. I run on shorter tracks as well with a top speed of around 120 and there is plenty of power. I run 70% of the track in 3rd gear, and shift into 4th on the straights.

 

[isrboss]

Why are people thinking the 4.30 is only for drag, have you checked the transmission gearing yet. The 4.30 basically turns it into a usable 5 speed. Good call on the 4.30 rear op, I'm shopping a 96-01 cobra and I'm putting a 4.30 rear gear, and I hate drag racing, it will only see road courses.

 

[WutApex]

Why are people thinking the 4.30 is only for drag, have you checked the transmission gearing yet. The 4.30 basically turns it into a usable 5 speed. Good call on the 4.30 rear op, I'm shopping a 96-01 cobra and I'm putting a 4.30 rear gear, and I hate drag racing, it will only see road courses.

I'd be curious how this works out for you. I think A1yola was running 4.10s and he seemed to like them IIRC

For me, I'd rather not have to use 5th for the following:

• With me strapped in and my short arms, 5th is a long throw.
• Just another shift I have to make - my philosophy is the least amount of driver input results in the least amount of potential error