First off...your an idiot and yes...I am an asshole most of the time.
I said it was funny that someone calls themselves a professional detailer, yet ask a question of getting a rotary. Very few people know how to properly use a rotary. With the advancement of the technology of detailing, even a slight newb who can follow the videos of hack detailers and great product salesmen as you listed above can become a "professional."
A real professional detailer, would not need to worry about getting a rotary. As those said, with the Rupes, Rupes can do anything. Hell, you can correct most cars today with a polish. Even compounds are becoming obsolete. A professional, can judge there situation of how a paint needs to be corrected and finished down based solely on the buffer, pads, product and type of clear they are working with. You will find almost 1% of your situations that might need the help of a rotary. Only reason I use mine is to finish down on clears that mixed with a ton of clear hardeners. Just because I miss the action and skill required with a rotary. Its fun.
Now if you want me honest opinion to your question...then here....
Flex 3401 is a terrible buffer. Its counter oscillation is a pain. Its OPM speeds are generally either too aggressive or too weak. Takes more effort to use that buffer, than to use something more simple as a Griots or the better item, Rupes 21 or 15. That is why the Flex is not really ever talked about on true professional detailing boards. Go to something like Autogeek and flavor of the month, depending if they are trying to lower their stock of Flex, is to tell everyone is the greatest thing since sliced bread.
As I stated above, if you really are a pro, then why do you want to go to something getting outdated like the Dewalt? For the shits and giggles? Or because you are not achieving the results you are after? Are you even using the correct light to inspect your surface to make sure that you are achieving optimal results? Are you using the incorrect products? Are you using too aggressive product for something that technique could yield better results? Are you using the wrong pad? Are you not buffing long enough? Arm speed too fast? These are probably the better questions you should.
Why do I say this, you ask?
Because the Rotary in the correct hands can always achieve such a beautiful, micro marring free finish, that yields amazing gloss and depth of color. Sometimes on too soft of clears, it can still leave holograms behind. The only time people want to use a rotary is if they are a hack like Thomas *guy who posted in this thread* or they are trying to speed up their working time. I will assume you are not a hack. So if you are trying to speed up your cutting time, you will greatly increase the odds that you will burn or scar the finish. Money to fix that panel just ate up all the time in your job...and probably lost you a customer. Rotaries are for dealerships where its all about maximizing your cutting process in as little time as possible. Never yielding great results. With the correct skill level you can turn a 3 step correction down into a 2 step correction. Do all your cutting in the first step with the Dewalt and finish behind with a Griots or a Rupes to remove the holograms and give it a final glossing step. But that cutting step still takes as long as normal if not longer, since you have to ire on the side of caution for edges, groves, angels and uneven areas.
Now...did I answer your question? Or am I still just an asshole?
Hopefully I got both!!!!
