Roush TVS Aluminator "Take it to the limit" Build

[dsmith658]

Hi SVTPerformance!

I started a build thread on another forum but decided to move to SVT as well, since I have received a good bit of help here as well. This car started as a October 2014 new purchase, with dealer installed phase 3 package. I thought this would be plenty of power for me, however I found myself wanting more almost immediately. At this point I called VMP up and got a tune for it. That woke it up a bit, but still, I find myself wanting sick, huge power. 800 being the new 600 and all...

I am hoping this post will give guys an idea of the level of effort needed to pull and drop a motor in your garage with only a hoist. I am by no means a mechanic, but I do have some pretty decent skills. I did just about all this work by myself in the garage on jackstands, besides when friends wanted to come have a beer and pitch in.

Old Combo:
Roush RS3 (TVS 2300) M6
80mm Pulley
93 Octane VMP Tune
Meth Injection (For added safety factor)
Roush BAP
Roush CAI
Roush AB

New Combo:
5.0 NA Aluminator
Roush RS3 (TVS 2300 Ported) M6
69mm Pulley
E85
JLT 123mm Intake
Revan Dual Pass Dual Fan Heat Exchanger
VMP Elbow
VMP 67mm Twin TB
ID1000 Injectors
Stainless Works LTH 1-7/8"
Catless X
Borla Over Axle Pipes
GT500 AB
JPC Fuel System (1400 HP Version with Twin 465 Walbro)
Spec Stage 2 Clutch
Battery Relocation
FRPP 3.5" DS with BMR Loop
Eibach SportLines
AMR 18" Wheels with Nitto DR on the back

Here is the before picture of the engine bay:



One of the biggest pains in the ass and time killer was getting the stock H-pipe off for me. It didn't matter how much penetrating oil I used it was still locked up. I got all the bolts off from the bottom except for the passenger side top bolt which had to be done from the top. I broke half the bolts off in my efforts and wasted half a day.





I was pretty happy to get it this far, and I believe that's about all I did the first day of work.

 

[dsmith658]

Next I went ahead and tackled the drive shaft since I wasn't planning on dropping the tranny. Removing the stocker was pretty easy. Installing the FRPP / Spicer 3.5" was a bit of a PITA. I had to build a custom tool to get on the differential flange at all. There was no hope of using a torque wrench on these bolts with what I had so I made sure to get them torqued to "tight".

 

[dsmith658]

I spent about half my second full day on the DS (I know I am slow), but then made my way back to the engine bay. I pulled all the pieces off the engine and they slowly collected on my makeshift table.

Here is the blower freshly pulled. Lobes look nice to me, even after a short 13.5k miles.



Here is the bare engine after pulling the intake manifold.



I discovered the 1 ton hoist I bought from harbor freight did not have the boom length I needed. Don't get that one folks!



Get the 2 ton... Don't disconnect the AC pump. Just leave it hanging after unbolting it. You are going to hate the wiring harness bracket they have wrapped around it. It really gets in the way of removal. After pulling the motor I ended up removing it from the harness and tossing it.



And got it out of there... As you're lifting go slow. Some of the wiring harness connnectors are very hard to see from the top. There is a ground attached to the motor mount that must be removed or you will end up stretching the harness. Just be patient and go a little at a time and you will be fine.

As you can see there is no reason to remove the radiator so leave it in. Just be real careful not to have a motor / radiator train wreck as you're leaving the bay.

 

[dsmith658]

Nice collection of parts starting to be accumulated here. Also this is the first appearance of the Aluminator.



Next I had to pull the timing chain cover off the stock motor and transfer it to the aluminator. This is an easy process, just needed to remember which hardware to use where since the stocker is different from the modified version.



Then I reassembled and bagged to stock motor to sell it off. Nothing wrong with this guy; I decided to be proactive instead of wasting a valuable stock motor.



For the last order of the day I went ahead and bolted the headers on the aluminator. I can't imagine how bad this process is for you guys installing them with the engine in the car.

 

[dsmith658]

The next day I decided to try to get the aluminator in the car. I didn't know how it was going to work out with the k-member in place, but I decided to jack the tranny up as much as possible and give it a try.



Unfortunately the headers are going to get trapped between the k-member and body no matter what angle you get with your load leveler.



So I stopped wasting time and unbolted the k-member. I didn't disconnect the electronic steering or any other wiring associated. Just dropped the k-member about 4 inches with everything still attached. This worked out just fine.



After this I was able to jimmy the engine into place. I called it a day after this since I am not 20 anymore. Haha!

 

[dsmith658]

So the next car day I went back and decided to finish mating the engine and see if I can get it in a position to run. I had a friend come over who gave me a hand which was nice.

I installed the braided clutch line from the tranny to the master cylinder. Please pay attention to the metal clip on the firewall. This little guy is sneaky and likes to get away. I had to order a replacement after searching high and low for a part number. Also please keep in mind the clip installs from the drivers side fender in toward the center of the car. I wasted a lot of time trying to install it from the top because I could not remember.



Next we started the top end reassembly. Before this I had torqued down all of the bell housing bolts, and the engine mated with the transmission fine.



When putting the engine back together I noticed how badly mismatched the blower and the new VMP elbow were. That set me up for my next day's project.



Here is the motor back together. I turned the key and she fired right up. I can't describe how loud it was with the open headers, but I didn't run it for long because I didn't want the neighbors coming for me.

 

[dsmith658]

After seeing how bad the port match was I immediately went to home depot and grabbed some carbide bits to start porting my blower inlet. This was very time consuming but not hard at all. I used plenty of rags, a vacuum and loads of patience. I finished off the job with sandpaper cylinders which left a nice smooth finish. When I was done there was no lip left between the two parts.

Before Porting:



After Porting:



When I was finished I went ahead and got everything back together again.



The next day she went for her maiden voyage. There was no noise, vibration, or anything to concern me at all. I was throwing plenty of codes, mostly due to the parts changes. I used my X4 to do a crank re-learn and this eliminated several of them.



This catches us up on my current state. Next on the list is fuel system concerns which I will resolve with a JPC 1400 HP fuel system.



For now I will spend some time breaking in the motor on the stock injectors 47 lb/hr and fuel system :coolman:

 

[92fiveohfox]

Awesome build man. Hope to see you around Houston sometime. Any plans to take it to the track?

 

[dsmith658]

Yep, I do plan on bringing it to the track. I just moved to Houston, and have been putting off this build due to that. Keep an eye out for me there!

 

[gimmie11s]

Great write up and documentation.

 

[Scott8583]

Very Nice!

Couple tips... If you want 800whp on a Aluminator, you'll need a 15% lower pulley with a 69, or maybe 72mm upper pulley with VMP's 8 rib setup.

And anything over 650whp is almost useless in front of a mt82.

 

[dsmith658]

Thanks for the tips! Useless will be fun for a while. I have a lot of work to do before it will have a prayer at making a good pass. But it should be fun.

So 69mm is the way to go? I am sure VMP won't mind me buying another.

I am planning on getting a 93 tune as well. Can I run the 75mm with pump 93 with meth on top without huge danger?

 

[corepwn]

I was able to use a 3/8ths torque wrench on the front and rear sections of the DS.
Also, I did not lower the k-member at all to drop in my Aluminator with the headers on.

It doesn't matter now since you've gone it done, but just adding info in case anyone reads through and thinks they HAVE to do those things.

Good luck to becoming another member of the 800rwhp TVS club

 

[dsmith658]

I was able to use a 3/8ths torque wrench on the front and rear sections of the DS.
Also, I did not lower the k-member at all to drop in my Aluminator with the headers on.

It doesn't matter now since you've gone it done, but just adding info in case anyone reads through and thinks they HAVE to do those things.

Good luck to becoming another member of the 800rwhp TVS club

I would love to have seen that done! Did you have the same headers?

 

[Scott8583]

Go E85 and be done with anything related to pump gas! (93)

 

[dsmith658]

Go E85 and be done with anything related to pump gas! (93)

Then I can't drive the car away from Houston, and that's not going to work. I'll want a tune for 93 just in case I want to take this thing on a road trip.

 

[rhite95]

Very nice build !!

I bet it is super loud with the Roush mufflers and off-road pipe...

 

[dsmith658]

Very nice build !!

I bet it is super loud with the Roush mufflers and off-road pipe...

I am not sure if super loud covers it. I love loud exhaust but this is crazy. This was going to be my next research / question, but exhaust is pretty subjective. Nice car!

 

[rhite95]

I am not sure if super loud covers it. I love loud exhaust but this is crazy. This was going to be my next research / question, but exhaust is pretty subjective. Nice car!

Thank you !!

I am going to do LT's and OR-X or H next. Just not sure which way I am going to go. I am thinking maybe full Kooks exhaust.

 

[Gpcalero]

Love the build thread man, keep it up