rxt install, now harder to get in gear and softer pedal

[throthaduece85]

prepping for my power adder I decided to do an McLeod rxt clutch with steel flywheel before installing turbo setup. I did the install per the instruction manual, the only thing that somewhat differed is the alignment marks on pressure plate and adapter plate. mine only had an alignment mark on the pressure plate and nothing on adapter plate. I torqued the pressure plate in the star pattern at 25 ft/lbs and then again to 35 ft/lbs. I did not replace the hydraulic TOB/Slave as its an almost new car with 29k on the odometer, plus it looked ok. Installing the trans was easier said than done even with a trans jack as there was a lot of wiggling and such, but it finally went in. Button everything up, add fluid to reservoir and within 4 pumps of the pedal it was almost normal feeling. When I did the clutch line a year ago it must have taken 500 pumps to get the air out. Just struck me as odd as when I disconnected the clutch line this time a decent amount of fluid came out. ANYWAYS, fire it up and notice the pedal is lighter than stock. also noticed that even at idle, there was difficulty shifting into any gear with reverse being the most difficult. I was able to drive it home (one mile) without real issues but this cant be normal. I spoke with McLeod today and he wants measurements from this

http://www.mcleodracing.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/T45-TR3650.jpg

he also said that with only the adapter plate and bottom disc installed, that after the alignment tool is removed the disc should drop and he feels this may be the issue with what im describing and it could be from the disc being to thick. I did spin the bottom disc with the adapter plate installed to verify it was not binding. I have no problem talking with McLeod on this but I can only work on my car during the nights and weekends, and of course its my only car. So to avoid downtime, has anyone experienced the symptoms I am describing after a twin disc install?

 

[blackbeast12]

Did you go with a new slave?its not releasing correctly when its tough to get in gear!

 

[DrTriton]

Could still be air in the hydraulic circuit; I always vacuum bleed mine anytime I have the trans out.

 

[throthaduece85]

i did not replace the slave. and when i say soft pedal i mean it feels lighter than before. there is almost no slack/freeplay in the pedal. with the stock clutch i had about an inch of freeplay, this setup has less. but i do agree that its symptomatic of air in the lines. we have a BG brake flush machine at work, tomorrow i will see if it has a vacuum bleed capability. thank you all for your responses, keep them ideas coming tho :read:

 

[redline5.0]

i did not replace the slave. and when i say soft pedal i mean it feels lighter than before. there is almost no slack/freeplay in the pedal. with the stock clutch i had about an inch of freeplay, this setup has less. but i do agree that its symptomatic of air in the lines. we have a BG brake flush machine at work, tomorrow i will see if it has a vacuum bleed capability. thank you all for your responses, keep them ideas coming tho :read:

I only had one problem after my install was done and still to this day have to do pull the clutch pedal up with my foot just a little bit if the car sits over night or 5-6 hours. I've got used to it now and wonder if maybe I had a weak slave because mine only had 8k on it when I did the install. So every time I start my car I just make sure the pedal is all the way up and I'm good. Hope yours is something easy as well.

 

[SID297]

Could still be air in the hydraulic circuit; I always vacuum bleed mine anytime I have the trans out.

A vac bleed might help.

 

[burke985]

I have 26000 miles on my car and just replaced the clutch also with an exedy mach 600. The mech at the shop said my stock slave was going bad so dont thinkjust because it has low miles its fine. I would have probably changed it out too if i were you while you had it apart just to eliminate it from having issues

 

[F.D.Sako]

Did you take the clutch assembly apart?
I understand they come per-assembled in certain order and orientation to avoid engagement problems.

 

[throthaduece85]

I had to remove the pressure plate from the adapter plate to get the top disc on. There was no alignment mark on the adapter plate, but when I spoke to McLeod he stated that was just there to make sure that the pressure plate straps go directly over the floater plate straps.

Currently the engagement point is stock like. I do get the 1500 rpm rattle when lugging it. Just first and reverse require more effort to go in to with engine runnin. All other gears are easy. I've only gone about 30 miles, nothin close to WOT.

Is there a specific tool for a vacuum bleed? My shops brake fluid machine only does a pressure bleed

 

[Coxy]

If you have access to a hand held vac pump like the Mightyvac kit, there should be a rubber plug/cap to adapt onto the top of the clutch master. Apply vacuum to the master, making sure to not suck up brake fluid, and let it sit while you have lunch/whiskey. It should help pull any air up out of the clutch line. Used this method on a couple vehicles with squirrelly air trapping lines with sucess in the past.

 

[throthaduece85]

appreciate the tips, made me think of what was around the shop. Had a snap on cooling system air lift. I got rid of all coolant in the device and then used in on a brake clean jug to really clean it out. removed a small amount of brake fluid from master cylinder as it was full almost to the cap. then installed the air lift with a fresh brake fluid bottle to pull from. put a vacuum on the master for about a minute then turned the lever and the vacuum was replaced with fresh brake fluid. after cleanup I started the car and noticed the pedal was a little stiffer, almost the exact same pedal effort as the stock clutch with helper spring removed. Took it for a spin and did a pull in 1st and 2nd shifting at 6800, shifted great. Made a loop then did another 1-2-3 pull shifting at 7200 this time, perfect every time. Happy camper now!

 

[Coxy]

He'll yeah buddy! Way to get crafty haha. We don't have a cooling system air lift at the shop, sounds cool though! Can't wait to put a good feeling clutch in the Cobro myself.

 

[Tron84]

My RST did the same thing. 1st and reverse were a pita to get into.
It got much better as the clutch wore in.
It still is hard to get in 1st or reverse but only the first time shifting when it is cold.
I found too that if I shift into 1st then reverse that it goes in much better.

 

[jymboslice]

So your issue was air in the clutch line?

 

[throthaduece85]

Seems to be. First and reverse can require slightly more effort on the first shift, after that its all good. I've got maybe 100 miles on it so I'm still being easy, but the WOT 7k shifts let me know everythang gone be aight

 

[burke985]

Mine does that also with the Exedy , If i come to a dead stop sometimes i have to use more effort putting it in gear in first. If say i'm cruising and coming to a rolling stop it goes in effortlessly. Its only when im at a dead stop and its not every time. Im at 600 of the recommended 750 break in miles