Service Engine Soon?!!

[ArtMan]

Light is on in the dash cluster.

Here’s what happened. Going down the road at 40 MPH and had to stop somewhat fast, due to a changing traffic light. Seemed to cause a little fluctuation in the idle and then the service engine soon light came on. This happened after a couple of otherwise problem free hours of driving.

Tried a couple of restarts to see if it would clear out, no luck. Car is running fine, gets boost, no other apparent problems, just the light.

Anyone have any ideas or know if it could be serious? Am I ok to just disconnect the battery for a while, then see if it comes back? Or should I head to my local SVT dealership?

Any and all help appreciated, Thanks

 

[Shadowgray03]

pull the code that caused the SES light to come on, without having the code no one can even guess whats going on.

 

[Pyro]

Make sure everything in your intake is plugged in. I got that light when I forgot to plug a wire back in after cleaning the filter. Yours may have come off during hard braking.

 

[ArtMan]

Originally posted by Shadowgray03
pull the code that caused the SES light to come on, without having the code no one can even guess whats going on.

Feeling my age now, I'm muscle car old school. how do I pull the code, Other than with a diagnostics device?.. that I don't have...Help me out here Shadowgray03.

Originally posted by Pyro
Make sure everything in your intake is plugged in. I got that light when I forgot to plug a wire back in after cleaning the filter. Yours may have come off during hard braking.

Eyes are still working though. Checked everything out visually top to bottom, no leaks, oil and all fluids check good, nothing broken and no disconnections.

Thanks for thinking though. Any other ideas?

 

[Shadowgray03]

Originally posted by ArtMan
Feeling my age now, I'm muscle car old school. how do I pull the code, Other than with a diagnostics device?.. that I don't have...Help me out here Shadowgray03.

You need a diagnostic tool, any autozone should do it for you for free or next to free.

 

[ArtMan]

Originally posted by Shadowgray03
You need a diagnostic tool, any autozone should do it for you for free or next to free.

Cool, I'll stop by there tomorrow and see if they can tell what it is.
Thanks,

 

[ArtMan]

Code = slow responding O2 sensor

OK, had Autozone pull the code: Front O2 sensor on #2 bank (drivers side) is slow to respond. They sell Bosch replacement O2 sensors, only thing is it doesn't specify for Cobra, just 03 Mustang (looks a little different than stock on the sensor end).

My situation is:

1400 miles on car since new, 750 miles since X pipe and catback install. 600 since AF guage install (all connections at PCM). 100 since K&N FPIK install. No problems whatsoever until now and yes I am a little afraid of warrenty viod from Ford.

My quetions are:

Is the bosch unit safe to use or should I just get one from Ford?

Is this a common failure, or could it be indicative of another problem.

Should I take my chances with the warrenty and just take it to my local SVT Dealership?

Again, any help is appreciated.

 

[BlackGT]

I say take it to Ford explain your situation to them and see if it is in fact covered under the warranty but if not get the part # for the o2 sensor price the one at Ford and then price the o2 at autozone and just get the better deal, hope this helps!

 

[ArtMan]

TTT

 

[SVT4ME]

Let us know who it works out at Ford

 

[ArtMan]

Originally posted by SVT4ME
Let us know who it works out at Ford

Will update with outcome.

Is the bosch O2 sensor safe to use or should I just get one from Ford?

Is this a common failure, or could it be indicative of another problem? ie; Exhaust leak at X-pipe to header connection, or bad connection where I spliced into the PCM wiring for the A/F guage hookup?

Anyone?

 

[ArtMan]

TTT

 

[Cobra28012]

my check engine light is on also, because 02 sensor 1 and 2 are burning lean on mine, and no matter what i do (get new one, change them around, etc.) i cant get the light to STAY off. guess i'm gonna have to order mil eliminators, or 02 simulators this weekend...

 

[King03Cobra]

Before taking your car in, try removing your positive battery lead, turn your head lights on for a minute, then turn off. Re-connect battery lead and start car. This may clear it, if it comes back on then take it to the dealer.

 

[Pyro]

A while back, someone posted the procedure on how to pull the codes. You have to turn on the ignition, do something to some of the switches in some specific order and what not then the car damn near talks to you via the odometer. Do a search.

 

[PowerWheels]

You may have been close to a stall, have you had the reflash? Mine did the same thing when it had say 1500 miles on it, scared the crap out of me, but I shut the engine off and cranked it back up and no more light. Only happened to me once.

 

[sgt d]

did i miss something or did anyone think of asking. when you did the x pipe is it off road? and if so did you use mil eliminators? and if not do you have a chip to adjust for no cats? this would cause the ses light to come on. disconnect your battery and if it comes back on my $ is on that. call dallas mustangs and get the mil eliminators for $55-$60.

 

[ArtMan]

LONG

Well, here is what happened yesterday. (Long but I hope this can help others). Decided against the Bosch replacement and picked up the Ford O2 sensor. Price difference: Bosch $46.00, Ford $86.00. Disconnected the battery to do the O2 swap. 10 min. later quick test drive. light is out, staying out and car is running fine

Now, to share some more info: My Bassani X is catted and 2.5 in. I have never had the need to run MIL eliminators. While picking up the O2 sensor, an SVT tech said deposits on the O2 sensors is the leading cause of failure. He said this can be caused by dirty or bad fuel or any number of things.

The good news: My A/F gauge was actually useful, I know...No way. As I stated before, when I stopped fast from 40 MPH the idle fluctuated slightly and then the SES lit. I only drove about 10 miles after the SES light came on. During that 10 miles, I did noticed a slight fluctuation in idle speed on occasion. this prompted me to check my gauges. The lights on my A/F gauge were no longer bouncing around like a Christmas tree on crack. It was just slowly moving around in the stoich range when reading the #2 bank (side with bad O2 sensor). On the #1 bank, bouncing all over like normal, it is switched to read left or right bank. So at least it indicated a problem.

More: About 2 months ago I thought to myself, my car seems like it’s not as powerful as it used to be, but all was fine and running well. It didn’t happen all at once, just gradually until I could notice it. No indication of a problem at all, so I wrote it off as, “I was just getting used to the power and it must be time to feed my addiction with more mods” syndrome. In retrospect, I believe the O2 sensor may have been slowly going bad over this entire period of time. Because last night, OH MY GOD! This thing was pulling hard.

Possible bad news? Over the past 2 months I have also noticed the head on the drivers side seems to be getting a little noisier, (same side as the bad O2 sensor). At first I thought exhaust leak, checked it out several times, no leak. I don’t know if it is related to the O2 sensor going bad or not, or if the bad sensor could even cause this to happen, running lean maybe? Or even the dreaded “TICK” possibly? Just some food for thought.

Anyway...Thanks to everyone who provided input, greatly appreciated.