I cannot for the life of me get my car to hook. Right now the track is down for the season and I have been out on the street trying to get my car to hook from 20 punches and it just won't happen. Setup is bmr springs, strange single fronts, viking double rears, lower control arms and relocation brackets. Hoosier qtp for tires. Car just has a full exhaust, intake, and tune on it with stock converter still. Not sure how I'm blowing off a 28x11.50 slick but just can't get it to work. I have tried bmr setting of 5c, 7r. Have had them close to 50/50. Right now they are at 5c, 10r with no luck. From my understanding a slick doesent like to be drove into the ground like a radial and therefore run a lower compression with higher rebound. Any suggestions guys?
Shock settings
- Thread starter 98Cobraman
- Start date
have you removed your front sway bar? set the front stranges to a max of 4 clicks, my rear vikings are at 4c 7-8r I have just about every imaginable bmr suspension mod including uca and the uca mount from bmr which definatly helps plant the rear end down. Might have better luck with some 305/35/20 mickey thompson et street 2's these hook awesome on my car even in the 40f weather with the tires being totally cold with 28-30psi on asphalt. i cant get them to brake loose. definatly worth the money even though the life of these tires are only rated for 6-8k miles..
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Are your tires old? Is it below 50 degrees in your area? What's your relocation brackets set at? Too much anti squat & not enough front end lift can blow the tires off. I'm not a fan of lowering springs, no matter who makes them... Stockers work great in an A6 car
Weather was 70 yesterday but going to be in 30s and 40s from here on out most likely. Relocation brackets don't have different settings like the bmr one. Front are full loose right now I have only tried that and 2 clicks off full loose and I have the sway bar delete yes.
That thing should be dead hooking...
Hooking from a roll and using a slick on the street , is nothing at all like running from a stop from the track.
I can hook a 20 fine with mostly the same setup on motor but on a drag radial but only if im on a good concrete road. On old black top roads I can spin from a 50 roll.
You can try adjusting your shock settings and suspension setup but it wont be the same as what works from a stop at the track. Just remember you are shocking the drivetrain a lot harder from a low roll like that. Then you have to deal with how a slick reacts to an unprepped street with a cold tire, which is a yet another thing to figure out. My first thing would be to go to a drag radial it will be faster at the track for sure and I think do a lot better on the street with your current setup.
I can hook a 20 fine with mostly the same setup on motor but on a drag radial but only if im on a good concrete road. On old black top roads I can spin from a 50 roll.
You can try adjusting your shock settings and suspension setup but it wont be the same as what works from a stop at the track. Just remember you are shocking the drivetrain a lot harder from a low roll like that. Then you have to deal with how a slick reacts to an unprepped street with a cold tire, which is a yet another thing to figure out. My first thing would be to go to a drag radial it will be faster at the track for sure and I think do a lot better on the street with your current setup.
That's what I'm starting to think. I traded these straight up with my buddy who was parting out his car which is why I have them. I use to run a hoosier drag radial on my gto and that thing hooked no matter what track or street
Next question is what tires. Either hoosier drag radials or the et radial pro. My only issue with the pro is that the hoosier is 8lbs lighter a tire but it seems to have outstanding reviews.
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