Shocks/Struts Tokico blues vs D specs vs OEM 03/04 Bilsteins

[scottydsntknow]

Car is a 2000 GT with a 4V swap, IRS swap and a "frankensuspension" I just had to get it running and driving to be able to take it with me for a military PCS.

Wanting to make all 4 corners match plus I'll be going through the original circa 2000 front suspension stuff as well. I do already have Termi Bilsteins out back.

$250 for low mileage front Termi Bilstein Struts
vs
$250 for new Tokico Blues
vs
$350-$400 for new Tokico D Specs

Likely will be paired with HR Red Race Springs.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

[52merc]

I've got Bilstein B6 35-041382 struts waiting to be installed. I had them on order for 6 months before they arrived, but it appears most places have them in stock now. These are what FTBR sells to go with the H&R springs. I'd go for the Termi struts if you can get them.

I would think if you're going adjustable on the front you'd want adjustable on the rear.

 

[scottydsntknow]

Not going adjustable anywhere unless I got the D specs and that would only be if they are markedly better than the blues or the stockers. Steeda's old IRS spring combo when they made them was blues and their sport springs and is what was on the car from 2000 with the SRA. Have seen a few places that still have their IRS springs in stock or at least they say they do...

 

[shurur]

Out of the three you listed, I would take the used B6 Bilsteins all day long.

 

[FIREBALL]

I Like my Tokico Ds because on the soft setting they help give a nice ride. I couldnt find the Steeda springs anywhere 2 1/2 years ago!!!!

 

[scottydsntknow]

Blowbyracing has them listed in stock on the site but that might be an error. I'm going to email them and find out. I know the Steeda SN95/Edge cars that they did from the "factory" all had their Sport springs and Tokico blues.

And the more reading I do the more I am seeing that the B6s are too much for HR reds... maybe the Steeda Sport springs with the B6s?

Don't need the car to be CRAZY for handling, I just want something that's going to be stable in corners, safe, not bee too much spring for the dampner, and not cost me a crapton of money. I am not trying to buy shit... which is why KYB is not on here...

 

[shurur]

Best match for the H&R race is the B8 sport.
That is basically the 2000R spring/shock set up.
The B8 sport supercedes the 2000R shock/strut.

The B6 is probably fine with that sping too...but I'm guessing it would not take any faster spring than that.

I go by the MM site spring/shock recommendations.
Matching spring rates with dampers

looks like they all work fine for the front race springs

 

[omj]

I had 03/04 Bils. I went with Tokicos and like them because I can adjust perfectly whether I'm cruising, open tracking or drag racing. Much softer than the old Bils too when set to soft.

 

[scottydsntknow]

Well Blowbyracing didn't have them, figured it was the site never being updated. Bleh.

What are the Tokico Blues equivalent to on that MM chart nowadays? Illuminas or just the "premium performance" ones? How easy is it to get to the adjustment on the D specs when they are installed?

 

[shurur]

Well Blowbyracing didn't have them, figured it was the site never being updated. Bleh.

What are the Tokico Blues equivalent to on that MM chart nowadays? Illuminas or just the "premium performance" ones? How easy is it to get to the adjustment on the D specs when they are installed?

From what I can tell, the blues are the premium performance..

 

[scottydsntknow]

That's what I figured. I'll probably just suck it up and pay a little extra for the D specs and then get HR Race. Unless the guys at Steeda can find a set. I have an actual Steeda car so they've gone out of their way a few times to find me shit.

 

[FIREBALL]

The front Ds are easy to adjust but the rears are hard. You have to remove the side covers like when your replacing the shock to adjust them. But I got around that by carefully cutting 1" round holes through the cover over the top of the shock and then use female threaded couplers to extend the top of the Ds adjuster housing. I had to buy a longer allen wrench to adjust the backs. I dont remember the couplers size off hand but they were either 5/16 or 3/8 x1" . I then used a short bolt with a rubber o ring on it to seal of the top of the coupler hand tight. This might sound complicated but it really isnt. The hardest part was locating the exact spot over the shock to cut the hole and the covers arent quite the same on each side which made it harder. Be careful cutting hole as the covers are brittle and will crack.-----So you end up with just having to remove the bolt by hand and stick the allen wrench down in for adjustment and then replace the bolt----no removing covers. I think the Ds are the best of both worlds.

Forgot to mention I used a longer bolt on one side with one or two nuts screwed on as a spacer because one side the cover is higher up, the only other way would be to find a longer coupler.

 

[scottydsntknow]

Nice, that's good info. So did you get some rubber plugs for those holes or just leave em? Probably will get the D specs like I said, and HR Race. And BMR A arms and a UPR mild steel K with perches. MIGHT upgrade the old ass Steeda 3 bolt CC plates with newer 4 bolt stuff. The adjustability on 3 bolts sucks... The whole front suspension is squeaky as hell, every time I hit a little dip in the road=squeak. Rear is dead nuts silent. I just don't want the squeaking to be something in the CC plates and get done replacing everything else and have that be a problem. I mean everything else needs to get replaced anyway, front and back springs/shocks are totally mismatched and all damn near 20 years old...

 

[FIREBALL]

I had thought about plugs or something else to cover the holes but that area is uneven with highs and lows and nothing would fit. Even with the bolt heads slightly sticking out they are really not noticeable unless your looking for them.