Should I buy a GT500, GTR, Or z06 c6? Well I tried them all out... Here are my thoughts...

[MastaAce03]

Congrats on the pick up. I live in Washington as well and 92 octane, shitty 92 at that, is a pain in the ass. As far as a dyno is concerned, Blood Enterprises in Auburn has a mustang Dyno. Then there's Brad's custom auto in Seattle. Keep us updated. If you do decide to get a custom tune from either one of those shops, let me know how it went. I may do the same.


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[MastaAce03]

Congrats on the pick up. I live in Washington as well and 92 octane, shitty 92 at that, is a pain in the ass. As far as a dyno is concerned, Blood Enterprises in Auburn has a mustang Dyno. Then there's Brad's custom auto in Seattle. Keep us updated. If you do decide to get a custom tune from either one of those shops, let me know how it went. I may do the same.

I have the Griggs Gr40ss suspension with the watts link and aluminum drive shaft on my 12. Let me know if you have any questions.

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[VenomousGT500]

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[RedVenom48]

If youre going to road course your GT500 you'll need these:

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-2120AK/Mustang-GT500-Front-Brake-Upgrade-Kit-05-14

Its from the 13-14 Shelbys. Your stock brembos and these brembos offer similar stopping power, the difference is REPEAT stopping power. As good as the 4 pot Brembos are, these will not fade over the course of a few laps. Youll need to upgrade to 19" wheels to fit these brakes, but take a look in the market here and someone is usually selling a set of SVT Performance Pack Wheels both from 11-12 and 13-14. If youre intent on road coursing, these should be highly considered.

It will be an absolute must to upgrade the intercooler system. Heat exchanger, intercooler and high flow pump. Its one thing to be under boost drag racing at a track. On a road course, youre in boost WAAYYY more. Your factory system is probably good for a lap at best, then your starting to heat soak. Once that happens, the computer will pull a ton of ignition timing to protect the engine. 170 Degree T-stat as well. Im sure there are plenty of road race guys that could chime in on this and have expertise far beyond mine.

Griggs rear suspension will definitely get maximum performance from your rear end. I think youd be able to make a decent occasional drag racer out of your car set up for road/roll racing. You cant neglect the front suspension either. Youve got 100 more pounds over the front of that car, so making sure you have the front suspension to handle it is a must.

QA1 and BMR can help you get squared away selecting parts and setting up your car.

Welcome to the rabbit hole hehehe

Talk to Lund and see how he wants you to handle the tune. He may say loading his tune file is ok, he may want you to do as Ive mentioned and flash to stock before hand. Let them tell you what they want you to do.

 

[MastaAce03]

I'd say skip the ford dealership and take it straight to a performance shop for whatever you want done. What area are you in?


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[VenomousGT500]

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[GT Premi]

... I have a full blown nice race track about 30 minutes away from me. Here is the layout. This Shelby should be fun on it as is already, and it just is so much more safe and better than street racing... I don't have a drag strip near me, we do use airplane runways occasionally for legal drag racing but it's once a month. So I will get some videos asap hopefully for you guys before the rain starts.


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I'm jealous! Is that a private track or something used in the IMSA/SCCA circuit? What's the name of it?

It's been over 20 years since I've lived in Washington, but I believe there might be a shop or two in Puyallup. You might surprise yourself and find something out in a hick town called Roy. Hick towns have some good shops sometimes.

Also, if you live in western Washington, there's no such thing as "before the rain starts." LOL

... Anybody have any experience in what it costs to have them remove the heads and inspect the engine thoroughly?

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Look at it this way; if you're going to have that done, you might as well go ahead and buy the parts to have it fully forged. The labor costs of pulling apart an engine is much higher than the actual parts.

If youre going to road course your GT500 you'll need these:

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-2120AK/Mustang-GT500-Front-Brake-Upgrade-Kit-05-14

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$1550 for some "stock" brakes! I'd rather find an aftermarket solution that works with the existing setup. He's in Washington, so heat soak won't be that much of an issue for him. Western Washington only gets about two weeks of actual summer heat. The rest of the "warm" months are extremely mild by southern/southwestern standards.

OP, what car did you have before this?

 

[RedVenom48]

Lol, stock brakes, dude those are Brembo 6 piston calipers! Hes not building an all out race car

 

[GT Premi]

Lol, stock brakes, dude those are Brembo 6 piston calipers! Hes not building an all out race car

I meant "stock" as in it's the same stuff that came stock on the '13/'14 GT500. Some better pads, SS braided brake lines, and high temp brake fluid can accomplish the same for significantly less money. And he'd still have a ton of money leftover to add some cooling ducts, if he wanted to. $1550 is a lot of loot.

 

[ShelbyGT5HUN]

You can definitely get a pad to work on the stock 4 piston brakes, but it will be so hard, it won't work on the street. I'd consider adding the brake cooling ducts.

 

[WVTrakPak]

My 14 was a blast at Barber Motorsport park wich appears similar to the layout of the track you are near. I added cooling ducts and Motul and still had to baby the brakes late in the day. Stainless steel lines are next in order for me and I think that will be enough. Congrats and enjoy.

 

[VenomousGT500]

I drove down to Mexico today and made my first video with the car, 2nd through 4th pull at half throttle 40mph roll...

 

[VenomousGT500]

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[VenomousGT500]

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[nxhappy]

for sure get it on the dyno, make sure AFR is in check

also glad you didn't get a vette, they are only driven by 60 year old homosexuals ....

 

[VenomousGT500]

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[RBB]

I am emailing John Lund about a custom tune and ngauge, also ordered an afr gauge,boost gauge, and a pillar.

After I get it all dialed in with the tune my next mods will be in the cooling area. Is the Steeda triple bypass dual fan heat exchanger, frp aftermarket intercooler, and lethal performance intercooler pump the best combination for our cars? Or would is there a better setup...

I'd stay away from the Steeda heat exchanger. Go with VMP or the C&R exchanger from Van. Personally, I run the VMP unit and it's performed great. Install is very easy as well with the PnP wiring harness.

I believe that FRPP intercooler is the same thing the 13-14 came with stock. It is an upgrade over what you have stock, but if I was going to spend the money on a new one, I'd jump straight to the KB Bigun. It will require you to make some minor alterations to your lower intake manifold to fit, but nothing major. You might want to check the used parts section. I've seen a couple 13-14 intercoolers floating around in there lately, if that's the way you decide to go.

Can't help you with the Lethal pump, maybe someone else will have an answer there.

 

[MastaAce03]

I'd stay away from the Steeda heat exchanger. Go with VMP or the C&R exchanger from Van. Personally, I run the VMP unit and it's performed great. Install is very easy as well with the PnP wiring harness.

I believe that FRPP intercooler is the same thing the 13-14 came with stock. It is an upgrade over what you have stock, but if I was going to spend the money on a new one, I'd jump straight to the KB Bigun. It will require you to make some minor alterations to your lower intake manifold to fit, but nothing major. You might want to check the used parts section. I've seen a couple 13-14 intercoolers floating around in there lately, if that's the way you decide to go.

Can't help you with the Lethal pump, maybe someone else will have an answer there.

And why would you stay away from a Steeda heat exchanger?


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[RBB]

And why would you stay away from a Steeda heat exchanger?


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In the past it was always considered to be inferior to the other options. I believe this was when the older model that didn't even have fans was their only offering. This model does look to be improved, but the VMP unit still has larger fans. For an extra $50, the VMP piece is superior.

The VMP and C&R kits are much more popular and proven, so might as well go with what is known to work well. Having dealt with both VMP and Van in the past, I will say the customer service is exceptional with both. Nothing against Steeda, but I know where my money would go.

 

[RedVenom48]

I can vouch for the VMP unit. Has performed flawlessly. I had a bit of water intrusion into one of the relays causing corrosion. A swap to a new relay and some dielectric grease to protect the connections has fixed the problem.

@VenomousGT500 You may want to call Lethal performance and get the details for the 55gpm pump. I know they used in on their 2013 GT500, but am unsure of the details. I myself have a Trinity IC pump waiting for install. Im working on plans to create a bypass hose (similar to the 13-14 factory hose), but I may install it without the hose, but with a full reservoir tank and see how it does.

There are a couple of active threads here about rear mounted ice tanks and pumps that could give you some ideas for more extreme intercooling. The Kenne Bell Big Gun is the highest upgrade available for our cars. Id start with a dual fan heat exchanger and pump upgrade first, then see if you need a bigger intercooler. Ill tell you now, the factory heat exchanger 07-12 is a joke.