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2011-2014 Mustangs
Engine/Tuning
Should I buy boss 302 manifold??
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<blockquote data-quote="Grabber" data-source="post: 15515642" data-attributes="member: 70485"><p>Understand applying general knowledge, which is great BTW, works to the new car. But, if you've never ripped the motor open, heavily modified it and raced it at the track, the experience part with this car is null and void. </p><p></p><p>Before I modded my car, I spent days and days, if not weeks talking to tuners and drag racers about specific setups. Finally, after working with a local guy that was running near 10's on a CJ setup in a 3,550LB race weight car with stock headers, I decided on what I wanted.</p><p></p><p>Granted, you're an exception in the modding world and racing, but, I think it's fair to say you need to perform more trial and error with the 5.0 platform before you can apply previous experience from a car that responds differently to different mods. </p><p></p><p>I hardly go on S197 because of the mentality and attitude from the members there. Just about everyone that goes there regularly is part of a large bandwagon and if your opinion differs in the slightest, it's you against a forum. Not fond of the new owners as well.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>It's one thing to gauge how fast a car feels racing on the street and another at a track. I did that too when I was young and foolish over 10 years ago. It's not the same thing. </p><p></p><p>Great example of this is my previous tuner that worked on my 07 GT with a Vortech through an auto said my car should make 430-450 RWHP. It made 407 RWHP. He then said it would run high 12's on a street tire, low 12's/high 11's on a drag radial. I took it to the track in 100 degree weather, had goodyear eagle street tires on it, weighed around 3850 with me in it and it cracked consistent 12.2 @ 113. Car "felt" faster, but, the reality was it ran faster than it should have and didn't make good power. </p><p></p><p>Never got around to getting my coyote to the track after modding it and selling it almost immediately after I finished. I ran cars that were faster on paper and hung with them. The reality of this is, do some research on the 5.0. There has been so much controversy about gains, and to claim that a BM car with bolt-ons, not sure if you have headers and are running E85, will not make 465+ RWHP unless the dyno hasn't been calibrated or you have cams like Oldbones here does. </p><p></p><p>Bolt-on numbers for the BM/CJ setups are almost ALWAYS in the 440-450 range depending on how happy a dyno is. </p><p></p><p>Either way, once you get some actual numbers and track times, the car is only as fast as you say it is on the internet and the clout behind your point and argument is extremely moot at best. It would be the same as the 03/04 crowd claiming pulley only cars are making 500+ RWHP without a ported blower. Not happening, to be honest.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Grabber, post: 15515642, member: 70485"] Understand applying general knowledge, which is great BTW, works to the new car. But, if you've never ripped the motor open, heavily modified it and raced it at the track, the experience part with this car is null and void. Before I modded my car, I spent days and days, if not weeks talking to tuners and drag racers about specific setups. Finally, after working with a local guy that was running near 10's on a CJ setup in a 3,550LB race weight car with stock headers, I decided on what I wanted. Granted, you're an exception in the modding world and racing, but, I think it's fair to say you need to perform more trial and error with the 5.0 platform before you can apply previous experience from a car that responds differently to different mods. I hardly go on S197 because of the mentality and attitude from the members there. Just about everyone that goes there regularly is part of a large bandwagon and if your opinion differs in the slightest, it's you against a forum. Not fond of the new owners as well. It's one thing to gauge how fast a car feels racing on the street and another at a track. I did that too when I was young and foolish over 10 years ago. It's not the same thing. Great example of this is my previous tuner that worked on my 07 GT with a Vortech through an auto said my car should make 430-450 RWHP. It made 407 RWHP. He then said it would run high 12's on a street tire, low 12's/high 11's on a drag radial. I took it to the track in 100 degree weather, had goodyear eagle street tires on it, weighed around 3850 with me in it and it cracked consistent 12.2 @ 113. Car "felt" faster, but, the reality was it ran faster than it should have and didn't make good power. Never got around to getting my coyote to the track after modding it and selling it almost immediately after I finished. I ran cars that were faster on paper and hung with them. The reality of this is, do some research on the 5.0. There has been so much controversy about gains, and to claim that a BM car with bolt-ons, not sure if you have headers and are running E85, will not make 465+ RWHP unless the dyno hasn't been calibrated or you have cams like Oldbones here does. Bolt-on numbers for the BM/CJ setups are almost ALWAYS in the 440-450 range depending on how happy a dyno is. Either way, once you get some actual numbers and track times, the car is only as fast as you say it is on the internet and the clout behind your point and argument is extremely moot at best. It would be the same as the 03/04 crowd claiming pulley only cars are making 500+ RWHP without a ported blower. Not happening, to be honest. [/QUOTE]
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Should I buy boss 302 manifold??
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