ah a little late, I ordered those along with a few other things from Fore earlier in the week. I don't have to worry about wire harnesses or anything else back there to clear so it should work out for me
Show me your fuel rail fittings w/ aftermarket blowers (KB specifically)
- Thread starter Harley#356
- Start date
Got my Fore fittings in, and wanted to post some updated pics, incase this helps anyone out in the future...
Mocking these up on the bench for now, the motor didn't really have any intrusions on this routing, but once I get it set back together I can take some more.
The fore 90* fitting just barely clears but it works and you can easily get an AN hose end on it...
Fitting facing 90* towards the passenger side. I feed the back of the rails, and it comes from the drivers area of the trans tunnel, so if I use it like this, I'll use a 90* hose end on this and wrap the hose around the back of the turkey pan.
My other option and it clears nicely this way, is straight down instead of out. This will depend where my engine harness falls and valve cover clearance, etc. I'd use the same 90* hose end and wrap the hose around the back side.
Thanks for the help. I also picked up that Fore AN wrench, that thing is pretty low profile and not a bad deal for the $15 or whatever it was.
Mocking these up on the bench for now, the motor didn't really have any intrusions on this routing, but once I get it set back together I can take some more.
The fore 90* fitting just barely clears but it works and you can easily get an AN hose end on it...
Fitting facing 90* towards the passenger side. I feed the back of the rails, and it comes from the drivers area of the trans tunnel, so if I use it like this, I'll use a 90* hose end on this and wrap the hose around the back of the turkey pan.
My other option and it clears nicely this way, is straight down instead of out. This will depend where my engine harness falls and valve cover clearance, etc. I'd use the same 90* hose end and wrap the hose around the back side.
Thanks for the help. I also picked up that Fore AN wrench, that thing is pretty low profile and not a bad deal for the $15 or whatever it was.
I wasn't really sure if the rear fitting would clear or not and seeing how tight it is, it just barely fits without needing to make clearance. I'll bet you had to use that wrench on all four of those fittings. Looks good!
What PCM are you using the run the engine, stock, GT500 or aftermarket? I've only seen one other person do something similar and it was the next generation F-150 and he got away with using the 3v 5.4 PCM, but it was pretty much a stock GT500 engine.
What PCM are you using the run the engine, stock, GT500 or aftermarket? I've only seen one other person do something similar and it was the next generation F-150 and he got away with using the 3v 5.4 PCM, but it was pretty much a stock GT500 engine.
it looks tighter in the pics than in person, but I thought I may have to do a little extra clearancing on that plate as well, which is why I waited on dropping it off for anodizing until i test fit the fittings, but it all clears nicely, between 1/8" to 3/16" around the fitting, it'll rotate fine between 90* out or straight down or 45* between, and plenty of room for the AN hose end to get tightened. I didn't tighten anything down yet so I haven't used that nice thin Fore AN wrench yet, but I will be when I install all the stuff for good! lol
PCM I'm using the "stock" one, which although I have a 00 HD truck, it's actually a 02 HD PCM & full harness. Apparently everything is the same other than the coil wires I need to flip polarity. I do have a GT500 engine harness from JD Coon that I may use and splice into mine, just so cable routing is cleaner being pre-routed for the 4V where coils & injeectors are split out, rather than the 2V where coils & injectors are all in a row in the same bundle.
Tuning will be a little tricky harnessing this much power on a stock s/c HD pcm, but JL's done similar ones before. Eventually I'll go standalone to fully tap into the potential of this monster, but I wanted to keep the project from spiraling too far out of control before I get to enjoy it for a bit. It's a slippery slope as I'm sure many know lol. I'll get it up and running, try to enjoy it for a bit, and the next round of future mods when I get the itch for more will then include standalone, maybe a different trans, etc.
PCM I'm using the "stock" one, which although I have a 00 HD truck, it's actually a 02 HD PCM & full harness. Apparently everything is the same other than the coil wires I need to flip polarity. I do have a GT500 engine harness from JD Coon that I may use and splice into mine, just so cable routing is cleaner being pre-routed for the 4V where coils & injeectors are split out, rather than the 2V where coils & injectors are all in a row in the same bundle.
Tuning will be a little tricky harnessing this much power on a stock s/c HD pcm, but JL's done similar ones before. Eventually I'll go standalone to fully tap into the potential of this monster, but I wanted to keep the project from spiraling too far out of control before I get to enjoy it for a bit. It's a slippery slope as I'm sure many know lol. I'll get it up and running, try to enjoy it for a bit, and the next round of future mods when I get the itch for more will then include standalone, maybe a different trans, etc.
Mockup pics of the fittings mounted up and this time sitting on the motor.
The rear drivers rail with the 2" fore extension should work perfect for mating up with my 90* AN off my Y-block. I don't use a hose from the Y block to the drivers rail, I have a 90* AN to AN fitting fromthe Y block to the rail, which in turn hard mounts my Y-block off the rail. WIth it sticking just past the back of the engine, it should line up perfect.
The rear passenger with the 90* fore fitting, and a 90* hose end mocked up, clears everything nicely. I'll likely end up using a 120* or 150* hose end instead of the 90* to wrap it more towards the drivers side, to plumb to the other port on the Y block. I need to get my KB lower plate back from PC to mount it up, mount the bypass elbow, and see if a 120 or 150 hose end would align better. I prefer to get my routing from the hose end angle and aim for straight shots of hose, than just slap whatever together and bend the hose to make it work. Just looks less clean that way.
Fronts, the 180* low profile fore fittings, are right on the money. These will both go straight back, then loop off to the passenger side firewall to my FPR.
The rear drivers rail with the 2" fore extension should work perfect for mating up with my 90* AN off my Y-block. I don't use a hose from the Y block to the drivers rail, I have a 90* AN to AN fitting fromthe Y block to the rail, which in turn hard mounts my Y-block off the rail. WIth it sticking just past the back of the engine, it should line up perfect.
The rear passenger with the 90* fore fitting, and a 90* hose end mocked up, clears everything nicely. I'll likely end up using a 120* or 150* hose end instead of the 90* to wrap it more towards the drivers side, to plumb to the other port on the Y block. I need to get my KB lower plate back from PC to mount it up, mount the bypass elbow, and see if a 120 or 150 hose end would align better. I prefer to get my routing from the hose end angle and aim for straight shots of hose, than just slap whatever together and bend the hose to make it work. Just looks less clean that way.
Fronts, the 180* low profile fore fittings, are right on the money. These will both go straight back, then loop off to the passenger side firewall to my FPR.
This is my fuel line set-up on my 3.6KB. I don NOT have a return style fuel system.
I have the BPS billet fuel rail, XRP 90 degree -8AN O-ring fitting (the standard length, NOT the short profile one that cost $70 dollar). XRP 150 degree -8AN push-on fitting.
There is actually a 2mm gap between the XRP 90 degree fitting to the KB base plate which is hard to see in the picture. The 90 degree fitting points to the passenger side. (Pointing down will NOT work - I have try it on the actual motor with everything on)
I want to hide as much fuel line as possible so I "Cut off" the tab of the KB plate as you can see in the pictures so the fuel line can go under the KB base plate.
I have some high temperature (1000 F) insulation sleeve that goes over on the fuel line (Earl's blue Super Stock Push On line - it was FREE from the store) to keep the fuel line expose to high under hood temperature.
I have the BPS billet fuel rail, XRP 90 degree -8AN O-ring fitting (the standard length, NOT the short profile one that cost $70 dollar). XRP 150 degree -8AN push-on fitting.
There is actually a 2mm gap between the XRP 90 degree fitting to the KB base plate which is hard to see in the picture. The 90 degree fitting points to the passenger side. (Pointing down will NOT work - I have try it on the actual motor with everything on)
I want to hide as much fuel line as possible so I "Cut off" the tab of the KB plate as you can see in the pictures so the fuel line can go under the KB base plate.
I have some high temperature (1000 F) insulation sleeve that goes over on the fuel line (Earl's blue Super Stock Push On line - it was FREE from the store) to keep the fuel line expose to high under hood temperature.
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