Show me your PMAS location in a centri application for a 4.6 4v

[makriluc]

Ok guys. I've been tackling to resolve many issues I had with my Procharger install since last November. Today according to my tuner I was able to resolve my STFTs variance:rockon:. Now my next problem to resolve is my MAF count which are, according to my tuner, "the looks of a 9.0 earthquake graph".
My PMAS is in a 3" x 12" tube in the right front fender as per Procharger's instruction with two 90 degrees elbows which are a no-no as per my tuner. According to him there should be at least 9-12" from any front or back elbows. There is no such room in the fender for that. I have a C&L intake tube, so I don't think I have enough room in the engine bay to install the MAF there.
Thanks for your input as always.

 

[encasedmetal]

pics would be helpful. also is this blow through or draw through?

 

[greasy]

Pics would be helpful like encasedmetal said. I would suggest running a honeycomb right after the 90 degree bend, pre-MAF to help with laminar air flow. You also may want to dump the C&L intake tube because of its odd shape and switch to a 3" straight tube with a curve at the end into the TB.

 

[makriluc]

Ok. This is a blow through set-up
PMAS location

C&L set-up

Greasy, if I replace the C&L with a 3" tube to the TB, what do I do with the hose that goes to the left bank?
And I would have to use a PnP adaptor to hook the IAT sensor in the PMAS to the IAT harness I have, right?
I've read that some other SVT members bought universal piping from Ebay to fit there FMIC. That could solve my rubber 90 degrees elbows.

 

[greasy]

I am currently doing a Paxton Novi 2K intercooled build. I will be running a 90 degree bend off of the IC and to a straight shot all of the way to the TB. I will need to cut into the engine bay fender, but it should give me great MAF readings. One thing I noticed right away which could be the culpirt is that your MAF pigtail does not appear to be soldered in. Did you use crimp connections?

I am just going to have a provison welded onto the tube for the IAC.

 

[makriluc]

One thing I noticed right away which could be the culpirt is that your MAF pigtail does not appear to be soldered in. Did you use crimp connections?

I am just going to have a provison welded onto the tube for the IAC.

Yes they are just crimped right now, I wanted to be sure the PMAS was working ok. Before I start using the car regularly, I will either weld them or buy one of those PnP adaptors.

 

[na svt]

Get rid of the C&L and run a straight tube from the fender to the TB. Put the MAF halfway between the TB and the fender.

 

[encasedmetal]

Get rid of the C&L and run a straight tube from the fender to the TB. Put the MAF halfway between the TB and the fender.

x2- the way you have is setup right OP you are never going to get a smooth maf curve, which will relate into terrible drivibility. you can provision the iat, iac, and maf input into the new tube where ever you like. here's a pic of my old setup for reference.

just make sure that the iac tube and the iat sensor are after the maf sensor.

 

[SpittingCobra]

I've had the same problem ever since I put my procharger on!! What a crock of shit putting it in the fender!?

So basically I can forget about running a strut tower brace if I want this car to run right with a procharger!?

So basically if you run a procharger you have to run around with a soggy front end.. There has to be some other solution.. I'm trying to set mine up for autocross and canyon driving, this really throws a wrench in that plan..

 

[na svt]

You can make the pipe fit under the brace.

 

[Tabres]

Get rid of the C&L and run a straight tube from the fender to the TB. Put the MAF halfway between the TB and the fender.

Yup.

I realize this is on my turbo car but its the same difference for pipe routing from the intercooler. Really pretty cheap to do, too.

Just me too, but if I were you I would think about losing the plastic butt-connectors on your MAF wiring and solder the harness in.

 

[encasedmetal]

I've had the same problem ever since I put my procharger on!! What a crock of shit putting it in the fender!?

So basically I can forget about running a strut tower brace if I want this car to run right with a procharger!?

So basically if you run a procharger you have to run around with a soggy front end.. There has to be some other solution.. I'm trying to set mine up for autocross and canyon driving, this really throws a wrench in that plan..

I've not had a stb in years and haven't noticed anything negative. my car handles like a goddam champ.

 

[Helomech74]

Here is an old picture of one of my setups. You can see the tube and where the PMAS is sitting. As for the IAC hose, just have a provision for it welded onto the new tube that you make. You can incorporate the IAT sensor into the PMAS harness since it has one built in and get rid of the other one.

As for the strut tower bar that someone mentioned, just get rid of it. It makes no noticeable difference in how the car handles, hell 98 Cobras didn't even have one from the factory.

 

[makriluc]

Thanks fellas.
Where did you get the reducer from the oval mouth of the TB to the 3" piping? What would be the size of the oval opening?
As for the wiring of the PMAS, welding was my intention or one the PnP harness from VMP tuning.

 

[Helomech74]

The reducer coupling was bought from Hellion. Unless VMP changed the PnP harness, it won't work on our cars (at least it didn't on mine). I had to cut the connector off one end and solder it into the car harness.

 

[greasy]

I bought my 4.5" to 3" coupler from Treadstone........

Silicone Hose Reducer- TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE

I also got my solder in harness from VMP Tuning.

 

[Senator]

I found a 05+ pigtail which works the same (solder) and it was $20 instead of $40+shipping.

 

[Helomech74]

I bought my 4.5" to 3" coupler from Treadstone........

Silicone Hose Reducer- TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE

I also got my solder in harness from VMP Tuning.

Good price on that coupler. The only difference is that it's a round 4.5" to a round 3" as far as I can tell. The Hellion coupler is oval to round, but it's also quite a bit more expensive, so the Treadstone option looks to be a good one if the fit is decent.

 

[greasy]

Good price on that coupler. The only difference is that it's a round 4.5" to a round 3" as far as I can tell. The Hellion coupler is oval to round, but it's also quite a bit more expensive, so the Treadstone option looks to be a good one if the fit is decent.

The fit is not perfect, but it works pretty well and the price is right. I will post up pics of it on the car within the next few days.

 

[makriluc]

The reducer coupling was bought from Hellion. Unless VMP changed the PnP harness, it won't work on our cars (at least it didn't on mine). I had to cut the connector off one end and solder it into the car harness.

Helomech, I've search on the hellion site and I can't see where your able to buy the coupler/reducer alone.