Slight Steering Wheel Shake after New Wheel Installed

[freemanjc]

Friends,

I had my stance wheels installed for about three months now and what I noticed is that there is a very small shake in the steering wheel while driving. Not much but it's there. Has anybody had experienced with this.
I was told the following below:

"If you have stock wheels, then the retaining clips aka washers are not the problem. They are only a problem on aftermarket wheels -- the factory wheels have a recess around the studs, so the wheel clears the washers and sits flat on the hub. Aftermarket wheels do not have this recess, or the recess is too small, so the wheel sits on top of the washers, not flat on the hub, and you get the wobble".


So removing the washers are not needed and should remedy the slight steering wheel shake? Any help in the matter would be appreciated?

The whole post can be red hear?

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/2005-2010-mustang-gt-tech/354430-steering-wheel-shake-fix.html

 

[466roller]

How many miles have you driven, possible out of balance issue. A wheel weight may have come off. I'd start there.

 

[RUQWKNF]

Did you remove the factory rotor retaining rings from the wheel studs? (Typically most cars will have one retaining ring per wheel but some may have up to 3, only use was to keep the rotor snugly attached to the hub while the chassis traveled down the assembly line)

Most aftermarket wheels are not designed to work with these retaining rings. They simply unscrew off the studs, you may have to pry them from the rotor face with a flat blade screwdriver or needle nose pliers, but they will unscrew over the wheel stud. I had this exact issue after installing my AMR wheels. I read about these retaining rings on here and immediately removed mine. Took them off and the shimmy/shake completely went away. Very easy to miss when installing new wheels. Yes, I'd recommend removing them.
Just a thought.

Patrick

 

[Zandura99]

as long as the retaining clips are gone (first potential issue) then jack the car up in the air. NO weight on the wheels.
You will need a second person, but loosen the wheels and remove. Make sure the hub and back of wheel are completely clean, and I sometimes if it will be a long time between rotations will lightly dab some oil/grease on the major contact points between the aluminum wheel and steel rotor if the rotors are not treated.

finger tighten the lugs with the socket in your hand no rachet/impact. This is the most important part, hand tighten and do so in a star pattern. once you are finger tight (I often with my palm hit the tire as I am tightening the last bit to make sure its seated properly), then (this is where a second person comes into play for brake application on the front wheels) with no weight on the tire/wheel torque in a 2 step process up to 100 ft/lbs. Star pattern, I typically go to 60 then 100 ft/lbs. do for all 4, and 90% of the time (I sell wheels and tires wholesale for Tire Rack, and this call takes place 5 times a week) I never hear back from the installer. Yes, I am talking about trained professionals at your local shop get this wrong on aftermarket wheels all the time.

The issue is even if there direct fit or have centering rings the 60 deg conical seat lugs are there to center the wheel perfectly on the hub. There has to be a bit of room even with centering rings for assembly... if it was exact you would never be able to slide it over the hub at 50 lbs +/- for the assembly... it would be a nightmare. If you have any weight on the assembly it cannot center properly, therefore you are off just a slight bit. Also, if you are miss-torqued (different torques all around the same wheel) you can cause vibration too... Not 100 percent sure on the physics with this one. I have done the test with this and it does hold true, but cant for the life of me figure out why.