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SN95 Rollercoaster

Discussion in 'SN95 Cobras' started by Real98roush, Oct 30, 2015.

  1. Real98roush

    Real98roush Well-Known Member Established Member

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    The other night I was laying in bed and it hit me... the instructions from Ford don’t address power for the control pack.
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    I called the tech line the next day and was provided a revised instruction guide. The new guide simply states to run a fused 4ga wire from the battery to the power distribution box terminal. It doesn’t state what size fuse or how to supply power to the starter or alternator.
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    I decided to forego the fuse all together. I ran 4ga to the stock power distribution box when I did the battery relocation, so I made a couple jumper 4ga wires and ran them in this order: stock power distribution to the new Coyote power distribution block to the alternator to the starter.

    4ga with battery lugs
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    Heat shrink
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    Heat shield for the jumper to the starter that’s near the headers
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    96 Cobra starter.
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    IG: @does_not_listen
     
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  2. Real98roush

    Real98roush Well-Known Member Established Member

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    For wiring of the factory gauges and AC, Steve White from VMP Performance provided a nice write up and tech support for small fee. I found him on a FB Coyote Swap page

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    IG: @does_not_listen
     
  3. 04DeadShort

    04DeadShort SVT Addict Established Member

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    Does the 4 gauge wire have any fuse protection?
     
  4. Real98roush

    Real98roush Well-Known Member Established Member

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    No. I will call Ford tech to discuss, but the stock harness isn’t fused to my knowledge so that’s why I did what I did. Either way, adding a fuse block wouldn’t take more than a few minutes.


    IG: @does_not_listen
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2020
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  5. Real98roush

    Real98roush Well-Known Member Established Member

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    The control pack is basically plug and play with the exception of the I/P pigtail. Below are the connections I used.

    A. Fuel pump: wire lead directly to the fuel pump. Initially had it tied into the inertia switch and that worked fine, but more on the fuel system forthcoming.

    B. Ignition: Requires 12V when the key is in the Start and Run positions. Tied into Tan/White stripe wire under the steering column.

    C. Starter Request: Requires 12V during Start ONLY. White/pink stripe under steering column.

    D. Tach: No connection required. This is controlled by the Dallas Speedcal


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    IG: @does_not_listen
     
  6. Real98roush

    Real98roush Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Most people use a oil filter relocation kit because the specified 5” filter conflicts with the sway bar. I have both a MM sway bar relocation kit and an oil filter relocation kit, but I’d prefer to not use them unless they’re absolutely necessary. For the time being I grabbed a AC Delco filter with the same thread pitch, 10 1.5, that’s 3” tall and clears the sway bar. I’ll confirm with Ford a smaller filter is acceptable.

    19fc5ffd5b0e64cb2ce03bc84264f498.jpg 8d891d5e8b37f28143be75b4439419f7.jpg

    Oil changes will require undoing the sway bar end links.
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    The MM oil relocation kit is very nice, high quality. It moves the filter below the driver side fog light. The geometry of the filter to bumper isn’t pleasant and can get messy during oil changes. Removing the sway bar end links is easier for me than dealing with the filter near the fog light.


    IG: @does_not_listen
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2020
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  7. Real98roush

    Real98roush Well-Known Member Established Member

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    As noted in previous posts, I upsized the fuel pump, kept the factory supply and return lines and added a FPR. The push lock AN fitting connection to the factory supply line was leaking. I bought 2 fittings, so I installed the other fitting and it leaked too!

    Instead of continuing down this path I decided to buy a complete fuel kit. I purchased a 900hp kit from Glenn’s Performance. It utilizes the stock tank and stock rails.
    34a1a51e48b9b0d674f5584995ce6e13.jpg 1de7ac14a88ffb51e4d6d5af3488fd25.jpg

    IG: @does_not_listen
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2020
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  8. Real98roush

    Real98roush Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Ford Racing tech support suggests using a 250a fuse between the power source and the control pack power distribution box. The way I routed my power to the alternator and starter is acceptable. No other fuses were suggested.



    IG: @does_not_listen
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2020
  9. 04DeadShort

    04DeadShort SVT Addict Established Member

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    250A.PNG

    250A sounds kinda steep but I was a able to find a picture proving the Ford Racing Tech to be correct. Kinda hard to see but it does show a 250A fuse. Nice.
     
  10. Real98roush

    Real98roush Well-Known Member Established Member

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    2013/2014 GT500 air box to make my own cold air intake

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    IG: @does_not_listen
     
  11. Real98roush

    Real98roush Well-Known Member Established Member

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    I saw that in an instruction guide for another control pack. Must’ve forgot to include it in the instructions for the control pack I’m using.


    IG: @does_not_listen
     
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  12. Real98roush

    Real98roush Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Power steering and coolant reservoirs arrived

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    IG: @does_not_listen
     
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  13. Real98roush

    Real98roush Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Got parts to make a cold air intake. 90° coupler, filter and kit with 4" lengths and bends.

    In the end it's not cheaper, probably slightly more expensive than buying a pre-made kit, but it'll definitely be more fun

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    IG: @does_not_listen
     
  14. Real98roush

    Real98roush Well-Known Member Established Member

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    The Mishimoto PS reservoir will not work. Looked like it had removable fittings, but that’s not the case. I’m going to try to make a bracket this weekend to but the stock reservoir in an inconspicuous location.


    IG: @does_not_listen
     
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  15. Real98roush

    Real98roush Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Initially I wired the control pack fuel pump wire directly to the pump. The connection was on top of the tank. For some reason this was keeping me awake at night, so I decided to redo the wiring using a Fore FC2 controller moving the connections in the trunk.

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    Drilled a hole for the pump wires, used a grommet and heat shrink to protect the wires

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    Ran the -8 supply, -6 return to the engine bay, but need a few more AN fittings to plumb the FPR to the rail. Pictures forthcoming.




    IG: @does_not_listen
     
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  16. Real98roush

    Real98roush Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Buttoned up the fuel system
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    Tried to tuck the FPR behind the passenger shock tower but AC was in the way, so I put it in front.
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    IG: @does_not_listen
     
  17. Real98roush

    Real98roush Well-Known Member Established Member

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    I’m just about done. Need to finish the CAI and mount the coolant and PS reservoirs, but there’s not much room available in the engine bay.

    Looks like the PS might fit, but the connections will be kinked
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    I wanted to put the coolant tank between the alternator and fan, but now that the radiator is mounted I’m seeing there isn’t enough room.
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    Guys on FB pointed me towards a Volvo electric PS pump that can be installed in the fender well.
    Grabbed one today for $45
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    Then I can move the alternator back to its original location where the mechanical PS pump is now. That should free up space for a coolant tank.


    IG: @does_not_listen
     
  18. Real98roush

    Real98roush Well-Known Member Established Member

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    While at the pic-a-part looking for the PS pump I cruised the mustang row and found some interior pieces. 95 door panels with the perforated inserts and a double din for $11 each. We’ll see if I can restore them after I get the car running.

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    Door panels need some love, but should be repairable f2cece8ed8aed0ceb08bd7d6eab37e53.jpg


    IG: @does_not_listen
     
  19. Real98roush

    Real98roush Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Wife got me some MMD hood struts. Happy to ditch the prop rod
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    IG: @does_not_listen
     
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  20. streetpilot

    streetpilot Member Established Member

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    Location:
    Tallahassee
    Car is coming together nicely. Checking in on this after not seeing it for a while. Love the direction and quality!
     

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