"Snuck" up to JLP today.....

booricua

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Hissssnsvt said:
I still think a ported blower is a nice "bang for the buck" mod but once you reach the power level Dwight is at, your pretty much maxxed out power wise on just blower. With the twinscrew, your just getting started. You have to ask yourself what your goals are.


hell thats a difficult question once you get you goal you always want more, all I wanted was a S/C Snake

then a pullied Snake
folowed by 450 hp currently 449
now I want a 500 hp or a low 11 sec

then a Whipple and 10 oh shyyyttttt I dont know what my goal will be :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash:
 

JRS BLOWN SNAKE

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CONGRATS Dwight!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Those numbers are crazy on an Eaton.... It must feel like a monster. I definately want a ride. Really happy for you. It's funny how a person can tell that they have achieved what they want to. I ran the 10.50's doing wheelies and said, Yep, that's it, I'm done. I am absolutely o.k., as I'm sure you are too. You very well know what I've said many times, back at the beginning, I would've kept my set-up just like yours. Back then my Apten port job netted me 491 rwhp and 546 rwtq, 2.80 upper and 6 lb lower. Just a great day for you. Cheers...

J.R.
 

F8LBITE

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Congrats on the new #'s. I think a few of us can 2nd your vote on Johnny's Professionalism and TUNING. I know My car will never see another.
 

JRS BLOWN SNAKE

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RedfireBeast said:
I'm glad your car is running good for you and realize that you may have needed a retune due to the ported blower. I must tell you that the cold weather does not have any affect on your tune if the car car is tuned by the MAF counts. Many tuners do not tune this way they run the car on the dyno see where the A/F falls and adjust it.

My car is tuned by the MAF count and once we added the 4lb lower it pegged the MAF so I went to a SCT2800 after installing the headers my tune was still dead on which was set up in 70 degree weather and was check in 30 degree weather with the header install.

Based on what you are saying the car will need to be retuned once it get warm again because it will be way rich.

I am not bashing anybody and I know your car is safe and runs strong you should not have to get your car retuned just because it is colder. I should be retuned due to not comanding the proper A/F or MAF counts or timing is to high or low.

I definately suggest anyone adding more air volume, ie. StageIV ported blower, get a retune. And I'm not defending any tuners. These Eaton cars are at the point where a low boost KB or Whipple car is, and any major modification like this should have their tune looked at. No matter what tuner, cars blow up in cold weather, plain and simple. Cold air is dense air, rich in oxygen. I agree your tune should not change much through the seasons. But many people race when it's cold, because the cars are faster, because the fuel burns quicker because of air rich in oxygen. Every day driving and jumping on the car here and there is a completely different story than being at the track, running all out to redline every gear. I, for one, would add a little fuel on my car when I raced in November, and early March. May have lost a little, but, cold air is not by any means equal to Nitrous, but has a similar effect on a much lower scale, cool air going into the intake, which requires more fuel. People have different Nitrous tunes than their blower tune. Staying under 5,000 rpms, nobody should ever need more fuel in the winter, it's the racers that should do it, to be safe. Ask any tuner when they're busy motor rebuild time is and they'll tell you it's right after it stays cold and folks are still racing. Especially the nitrous cars, cool nitrous plus cold air needs more fuel. I can remember at least 5 occasions where a blown up Cobra has been sent in from out of state for a motor. Never been tuned in Lancaster, but had ported blowers put on, and no re-tune..POP...

Most of us can't go long without adding a mod, so this may be irrevalent, because, any hp mod, I feel the tune should be looked at to be safe. My car had compression within one pound of each other on all eight cylinders. I feel strongly because I looked at the tune, and adjusted it as I made changes, all year long.

These threads are very educational, because controlled debate is how we learn. Everyone will never always agree, but it's o.k. to agree to disagree.

Good post Lou.

J.R.
 

TRBO VNM

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Awesome numbers dwight. really happy for you and where you have come with that thing. it is an all around amazing car. from the wax, to the engine, to the interior you have done an amazing job with it and at your own pace. I am glad you feel you are done, but beware, the mod bug will bite again soon enough. :rockon:

As far as tuning, I agree with JR and Lou. If the car is tuned properly like Lou is stating you should not need a retune at all. back when these cars first came out and prior it was necessary to even have 2 different tunes depending on the time of yr. With the new software that SCT and Diablo has, if the tuner "knows" and that is the key word, knows the software and how it operates, there is no need to change tunes if your combo does not change. Checking it I will agree with JR there and I would do the same thing on my own with logging and everything myself. Also, since I know my wideband is very accurate compared to Jon's I can trust it as long as the sensor is good and I keep it calibrated.

These cars with the mods we do, they are so standard now. That is why so many tuners are successful with mail order. That doesn't mean every tuner knows how to setup the tune properly. I can't get into specifics and rattle of tuning lingo, but I know the concept. Some tuners would command a 10.0-10.5 A/F and what would happen is it would lean out as you went higher in rpm and you would end up at 11.5 or so. Then depending on when you were tuned(summer or winter), when the next season came or temps changed the way the computer would lean the car out changed. depending on how the temps were it would either lean out more or less. Meaning say you were tuned in the summer and saw a perfect 11.5 a/f, well once winter came and as JR stated the dense air and the car needs more fuel the computer would lean out the car more taking more and more fuel. So you may end up with a 12.x or 13.x a/f and be very unsafe.

but now, with using the MAF transfer functions properly with the fuel and timing tables, what you command is what the computer will strive to maintain as long as you have the fuel delivery required to maintain that a/f.

This is then where you risk pegging the MAF, injectors and pumps.

Tim, BTW your stuff came in today here. With your proposed setup, I would do 60's, the BAP, wire upgrade and might as well get the SCT2800 MAF. You may even eventually consider the fuel line upgrade depending on the injector load.

My analogy regarding the old/new tuning methods may be a bit confusing or I may have something mixed up, but that is the idea behind it all. The only way to really see how one tuner tunes verse another is to look at their tune files.
 

SPRAYED DAILY

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Well my a/f readings were very lean and I had to add 14% fuel and set my BAP to 30% in order to compensate. From what I've heard there is a good chance it was realted to the cold weather. I am glad I bought a wideband or I would still be driving around and risk damaging my engine.
 

TRBO VNM

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JonJ said:
Well my a/f readings were very lean and I had to add 14% fuel and set my BAP to 30% in order to compensate. From what I've heard there is a good chance it was realted to the cold weather. I am glad I bought a wideband or I would still be driving around and risk damaging my engine.

yup, gut feeling is you were tuned the "old" way. glad we did the midpipe when we did huh? :beer:
 

Hissssnsvt

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booricua said:
hell thats a difficult question once you get you goal you always want more, all I wanted was a S/C Snake

then a pullied Snake
folowed by 450 hp currently 449
now I want a 500 hp or a low 11 sec

then a Whipple and 10 oh shyyyttttt I dont know what my goal will be :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash:

You just answered your own question. If your the kinda person thats gonna always want more, then the twinscrew blower might be a wise investment. Or you could take the less expensive route and invest in a simple, yet effective, dry nitrous kit.

Your right Jason, the tuners I've dealt with tune off the MAF tables so regardless of air temps or even the amount of boost your running, your a/f ratio will stay the same. That is of course, your not pegging the MAF, which I have a feeling might have been Dwight's issue on his first dyno run.

Dwight, did Johnny have to change the setting on your MAFXtender?

EDIT- just re-read the thread and realized this was covered by Lou's post.
 
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RedfireBeast

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I think everyone that mods there cobra should just go with a SCT2800 MAF which supports 825rwhp. This way you dont have to worry about your MAF ever and they are only $25.00 more than a 2400. I think Cobra330 "Mike" was the first in our club to get on of these.

Again I was just stating the basics of tuning.
 

TRBO VNM

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Lou, I am going to be shooting for more than 800 soon. but only for a dyno queen. won't run that at the track.

Dwight,

so I assume you are considering 60's? I would like to log your car and get some data regarding your injectors and pumps. It would be interesting to see the difference in yours compared to when I had my ported eaton. you might want to invest in gauges now. fuel and oil at a minimum.
 

Antex

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Congrats Dwight!! :beer: Awesome numbers!! :rockon: Time for us to hit the track for some March/April 1/4 times.... :burnout:

If any one asks I'm going to use your numbers for mine too...LOL, since I now have the 2.93/4lb setup with the Steig 4 combo port as well!!
 
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RedfireBeast

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TRBO VNM said:
Lou, I am going to be shooting for more than 800 soon. but only for a dyno queen. won't run that at the track.

Dwight,

so I assume you are considering 60's? I would like to log your car and get some data regarding your injectors and pumps. It would be interesting to see the difference in yours compared to when I had my ported eaton. you might want to invest in gauges now. fuel and oil at a minimum.

60's are a must with this combo. Antex has the same setup with 60's and his fuel pump duty cycle is at 82-85% "Matt correct me if i'm wrong".
 

Antex

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RedfireBeast said:
60's are a must with this combo. Antex has the same setup with 60's and his fuel pump duty cycle is at 82-85% "Matt correct me if i'm wrong".


Yep - we installed the 60's when I went to the 3.10/8lb un-ported combo and started blowing frps's. I haven't data logged the new stieg port combo yet. But I will be this weekend.. :pepper:
 

IronTerp

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RedfireBeast said:
60's are a must with this combo. Antex has the same setup with 60's and his fuel pump duty cycle is at 82-85% "Matt correct me if i'm wrong".
Not correct.....My factory injectors can still supply the necessary fuel to the cylinders at this horsepower level. Every car is different in this area.

And J, I am/was considering an upgrade to 60's and Johnny said it was unnecessary at this time. And I've been thinking of giving Alan a call for some pillar pod action, but it's a shame that our factory oil gauge is really only an idiot light.....these cars deserve better than that.
 

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IronTerp said:
Not correct.....My factory injectors can still supply the necessary fuel to the cylinders at this horsepower level. Every car is different in this area.

And J, I am/was considering an upgrade to 60's and Johnny said it was unnecessary at this time. And I've been thinking of giving Alan a call for some pillar pod action, but it's a shame that our factory oil gauge is really only an idiot light.....these cars deserve better than that.

ok, let me know about the gauge pod. I am a dealer for him. thought about doing a GB on them.
 

booricua

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TRBO VNM said:
Tim, BTW your stuff came in today here. With your proposed setup, I would do 60's, the BAP, wire upgrade and might as well get the SCT2800 MAF. You may even eventually consider the fuel line upgrade depending on the injector load.

.



YOU MEAN A WHIPPLE ARRIVED :cryying:

when do you know you will need the 2800 at what HP level If I knew that I would have gotten the 2800 from the get go,
 
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