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SVTPerformance's Chain of Restaurants
Road Side Pub
So what is the best way for 700rwhp?
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<blockquote data-quote="thomas91169" data-source="post: 6981052" data-attributes="member: 40530"><p>Fabrication and fitment issues. Both variants suck but as far as hotside fabrication (IE headers and exhaust) but going single is gonna be alot of work. both banks would need to meet as one into the turbo then out again.</p><p></p><p>I would go with twin bb50 trims. We have a 4.6L, each bank would equal roughtly 2.3L of displacment. Me being a DSMer, thats a stroker combo and a bb50 or 60 trim works well on that, so just double it. If you wanted to use a single turbo, it would have to be very large, and finding somewhere to fit it and all the hardware required would becoem an issue. I just saw a while back someone put twins and had the compressor inlet mounted perfectly to where they were at the front brake duct openings. badass. the route the wastegates to a side dump on each side of the car so when you hit full boost and start to gate to the atmosphere, **** making babies cry, it would make grown men cry for their momma.</p><p></p><p>the great thing about turbo's is they make equal or more airflow at the same pressure levels. Airflow = power, not PSI, psi is just how hard the turbos have to work to move a given amount of airflow. That being said, PSI is also what usually kills motors and head gaskets. If a Twin-Screw takes 20psi to make 60lbs/min of airflow, and twin 50trims can push 65lbs/min at 15psi, the twins will make more power. rule of thumb, lbs/min x 10 = rough whp estimate. at a lower psi, you are putting less strain on the motor while making more power. The stock terminator rotating assembly is pretty stout if tuned correctly.</p><p></p><p>Plus if you can fabricate yourself, that woudl be TT for me instantly. not to mention you can sell your stock blower, heat exchanger/intercooler and all related bullshit and that would probably pay for one turbo, and you just have to find the other ~1200 for the next, and say another $1000 for raw materials (piping, n/a cobra intake, fittings, SS braided tubing, oil feeds and return, coolant feed and returns, etc), youll still need support (injectors, fmic, maf extender, fuel pumps, etc) but if you can do it all yourself, you would probably come in at or a little bit more above the cost of a brand new 3.4L Whipple alone without the additional support. If you cant fabricate, the **** that, cause its labor intensive and all the Turbo Kits are major spendy spendy.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="thomas91169, post: 6981052, member: 40530"] Fabrication and fitment issues. Both variants suck but as far as hotside fabrication (IE headers and exhaust) but going single is gonna be alot of work. both banks would need to meet as one into the turbo then out again. I would go with twin bb50 trims. We have a 4.6L, each bank would equal roughtly 2.3L of displacment. Me being a DSMer, thats a stroker combo and a bb50 or 60 trim works well on that, so just double it. If you wanted to use a single turbo, it would have to be very large, and finding somewhere to fit it and all the hardware required would becoem an issue. I just saw a while back someone put twins and had the compressor inlet mounted perfectly to where they were at the front brake duct openings. badass. the route the wastegates to a side dump on each side of the car so when you hit full boost and start to gate to the atmosphere, **** making babies cry, it would make grown men cry for their momma. the great thing about turbo's is they make equal or more airflow at the same pressure levels. Airflow = power, not PSI, psi is just how hard the turbos have to work to move a given amount of airflow. That being said, PSI is also what usually kills motors and head gaskets. If a Twin-Screw takes 20psi to make 60lbs/min of airflow, and twin 50trims can push 65lbs/min at 15psi, the twins will make more power. rule of thumb, lbs/min x 10 = rough whp estimate. at a lower psi, you are putting less strain on the motor while making more power. The stock terminator rotating assembly is pretty stout if tuned correctly. Plus if you can fabricate yourself, that woudl be TT for me instantly. not to mention you can sell your stock blower, heat exchanger/intercooler and all related bullshit and that would probably pay for one turbo, and you just have to find the other ~1200 for the next, and say another $1000 for raw materials (piping, n/a cobra intake, fittings, SS braided tubing, oil feeds and return, coolant feed and returns, etc), youll still need support (injectors, fmic, maf extender, fuel pumps, etc) but if you can do it all yourself, you would probably come in at or a little bit more above the cost of a brand new 3.4L Whipple alone without the additional support. If you cant fabricate, the **** that, cause its labor intensive and all the Turbo Kits are major spendy spendy. [/QUOTE]
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So what is the best way for 700rwhp?
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