Soft Clutch After Short WOT Runs - Will A New Clutch Line Help?

[nuxx]

Hey everyone,

I very rarely get on my car, but when I do, the clutch seems to be a lot softer the rest of the time I'm driving.

I'm just talking about a quick one gear pull here.

I was reading a little bit about the JHR clutch line, but not sure if it would fix this situation.

Just curious if anyone has had this soft clutch issue and if changing out the line helped.

BTW: Also took out the clutch assist spring right after I took delivery of the car.

Thanks! :rolling:

 

[2011 gtcs]

It may help a little. If you do decide to change your clutch line it's a good idea to go with a higher temp brake fluid like motul brake fluid 600.

 

[nuxx]

It may help a little. If you do decide to change your clutch line it's a good idea to go with a higher temp brake fluid like motul brake fluid 600.

Do you think the line and the fluid would do the trick?

Is it a known issue with the 2013s?

Would hate to get a new clutch just for this issue...

 

[2011 gtcs]

Do you think the line and the fluid would do the trick?

Is it a known issue with the 2013s?

Would hate to get a new clutch just for this issue...

My best advice is try the clutch line and the motul brake fluid, but make sure you flush the entire brake/clutch system. You could possibly be getting the clutch fluid hot or it could have some water in the brake fluid and that's why the pedal feels soft. Give Van a call, he will take good care of you and help with any other questions you might have

 

[Norton]

Do you think the line and the fluid would do the trick?

Is it a known issue with the 2013s?

Known issue. Lots of discussion about it here.

It may help a little. If you do decide to change your clutch line it's a good idea to go with a higher temp brake fluid like motul brake fluid 600.

This ^^ is solid advice. Moreover, it's a MUCH cheaper path than a new clutch - well worth trying before taking the bigger plunge.

 

[nuxx]

Thought that thread was mainly about the assist spring, which I removed years ago

Is there a suggested clutch line?

I'll definitely get the higher temp fluid as well. Any idea how much it takes?

First WOT pulls in a bit, forgot how much the clutch upset me after pulls.

Was going with my wife in her Hellcat for happy hour and the weather was perfect for boost.

Thanks so much again guys

 

[Norton]

Thought that thread was mainly about the assist spring, which I removed years ago

Is there a suggested clutch line?

I'll definitely get the higher temp fluid as well. Any idea how much it takes?

First WOT pulls in a bit, forgot how much the clutch upset me after pulls.

Your point is well-taken. (Sorry.) I haven't read the clutch threads in quite a while, so I THOUGHT that one was a little less spring-centric. I recall a LOT of clutch-related threads about two years ago. Many folks complained of the symptoms you describe, or worse. Recommendations remain the same...
1. Remove the spring, which you've done.
2. Go with a SS line and better fluid, which you're planning.
3. Replace the clutch, which I hope you don't have to do.

FWIW, I remain happy with SS brake & clutch lines and Brembo fluid from Revan Racing I installed almost two years ago. I logged 8 1/2-mile passes at last summer's Pikes Peak Airstrip Attack and 14 1-mile passes at the Colorado Mile, all with NO clutch (or brake) problems. Highly recommended.

 

[nuxx]

Thanks!

Did you get these?

http://www.revanracing.com/products/2005-2014-revan-racing-high-performance-clutch-fluid-line.html

http://www.revanracing.com/products/brembo-lcf-600-brake-fluid.html

How many containers of fluid did you need?

What type of shop would you suggest do the work?

Performance shop?

 

[Norton]

Yes, Sir. That's what I got/installed/have.

I think Van sells the fluid in quantities of at least 5 (500ml) bottles only. IIRC, I used ~3-4 bottles when I bled the entire system.

If you're not doing the work yourself, I recommend simply sticking with a place you trust that's experienced in the type of work to be done. (IMO, a performance shop works, as long as they do more than tune cars.)

 

[nuxx]

Yes, Sir. That's what I got/installed/have.

I think Van sells the fluid in quantities of at least 5 (500ml) bottles only. IIRC, I used ~3-4 bottles when I bled the entire system.

If you're not doing the work yourself, I recommend simply sticking with a place you trust that's experienced in the type of work to be done. (IMO, a performance shop works, as long as they do more than tune cars.)

Thanks.

I have a friend that might do it for me. He's extremely knowledgeable about all things Mustang. Has rebuilt a few of the older 4V Cobra motors himself and swapped a few clutches for me back in the day.

Would you think going with 4 bottles would be safe?

Anything you'd change/comment on in this tutorial?

http://www.fastfordmuscle.com/index.php/topic/16-joe-heck-racing-stainless-clutch-line-install/

 

[biminiLX]

I definitely was going to recommend a call to Van, he will get you squared away.
Also remember if air in the system and gets to the ABS, you may need a dealer flush because of ABS.

On the clutch, might want to cruise at low rpm in 5th or 6th and floor it. If the rpm goes up without the car accelerating, you have clutch slip.
I also recommend the clutch line whenever the clutch is replaced, so you have slip, might as well do it all.
If no slip, I'd agree above and do fluid and bleed.
If you never race it and there's no slip, not sure the line upgrade is worth th labor, but it's a no brainer upgrade of the clutch is ever replaced.

Good luck, hope it's not the clutch going.
-J

 

[nuxx]

There isn't any slip, just the soft pedal after any WOT pulls.

I ordered the line from Van and ordered some ATE high temp fluid.

Going to swap the line and top off the fluid, then take it to a local place to flush the system. Don't want to deal with flushing the fluid, plus was quoted $60 to flush if we brought our own fluid.

 

[Norton]

I definitely was going to recommend a call to Van, he will get you squared away.
Also remember if air in the system and gets to the ABS, you may need a dealer flush because of ABS.

On the clutch, might want to cruise at low rpm in 5th or 6th and floor it. If the rpm goes up without the car accelerating, you have clutch slip.
I also recommend the clutch line whenever the clutch is replaced, so you have slip, might as well do it all.
If no slip, I'd agree above and do fluid and bleed.
If you never race it and there's no slip, not sure the line upgrade is worth th labor, but it's a no brainer upgrade of the clutch is ever replaced.

Good luck, hope it's not the clutch going.
-J

+1 to all of this.

Looks like you're well on your way, nuxx. Good luck and let us know how you make out.

 

[nuxx]

+1 to all of this.

Looks like you're well on your way, nuxx. Good luck and let us know how you make out.

Will do

 

[nuxx]

Sorry for the late reply!

A friend changed the cable for me and topped off the fluid with DOT4. He didn't bleed the system though, I said I'd take it to a shop to do that if I felt it was needed.

After a ton of WOT pulls, just changing the cable itself without the fluid swap seems to have done the trick

 

[Novtec1]

Guess I need to do this myself... not having any issues but why not sounds like cheap insurance to me.

 

[2011 gtcs]

Sorry for the late reply!

A friend changed the cable for me and topped off the fluid with DOT4. He didn't bleed the system though, I said I'd take it to a shop to do that if I felt it was needed.

After a ton of WOT pulls, just changing the cable itself without the fluid swap seems to have done the trick

Glade to hear it's fixed. It's still a good idea in the future to upgrade your brake fluid.

 

[Norton]

Glade to hear it's fixed. It's still a good idea in the future to upgrade your brake fluid.

+1 to all of this.