Someone with a stock clutch quadrant and adjuster please help.

JPB

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Ok there is a huge debate on how a clutch should be adjusted properly. Even clutch companies vary. About 70% of folks say the TOB shouldn't contact the pressure plate fingers while the other 30% of folks argue that the TOB should be in slight contact with the pressure plate. Both sides make valid sounding reasons. I have a McCloud and they say the TOB should have a .100" gap. Centerforce didn't give a number but agreed that the TOB shouldn't ride on the pressure plate. This argument states that if the tob is in contact with the pressure plate ; the clutch is slightly disengaged causing it to slip and wear. Spec on the other hand disagrees and says the TOB should be in slight contact with the pressure plate to prevent the TOB face from being beaten up during clutch engagement. So I need a favor from someone with a stock adjuster and quadrant. Can some one jack up their car, pull the clutch fork cover, start the car and tell me if it is spinning or not. If it spins it is in contact with the pressure plate and if it isn't it has some amour of gap. I'm going to adjust mine with to what the results depict as that is how ford intends it.
 

SnakeBit

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I don't have to jack up my car to look. I have an aftermarket quadrant/adjuster, Spec 3+ and LDC Freeplay kit. I have mine adjusted so it does NOT spin (no measurement, just enough space so it does not spin all of the time). Slight hand pressure on the clutch arm (just enough to overcome the LCD spring) will cause my TOB to contact the pressure place and spin.

:pop:
 
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JPB

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I don't have to jack up my car to look. I have an aftermarket quadrant/adjuster, Spec 3+ and LDC Freeplay kit. I have mine adjusted so it does NOT spin (no measurement, just enough space so it does not spin all of the time). Slight hand pressure on the clutch arm (just enough to overcome the LCD spring) will cause my TOB to contact the pressure place and spin.

:pop:

Thank you but I'm really interested in how ford has them set from the factory.
 

beeradd

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I am still running all factory setup, might not be right away but I am planning on replacing my throwout bearing in the future. I will be sure to snap some pics for you.
 

JPB

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I am still running all factory setup, might not be right away but I am planning on replacing my throwout bearing in the future. I will be sure to snap some pics for you.

Thank you. With the car in the air; do you think you could start it and tell me if the TOB is spinning? It cold be very close but not touching hence not spinning. A pic might not depict that well enough. Anyway, I'm thankful for any assistance you give me though.

Thanks again.
 

JB

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For many years, automakers (including Ford) have used constant-contact type throwout bearings.

They are designed to spin all the time, which reduces wear by eliminating rapid bearing acceleration every time you use the clutch.
 

JPB

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For many years, automakers (including Ford) have used constant-contact type throwout bearings.

They are designed to spin all the time, which reduces wear by eliminating rapid bearing acceleration every time you use the clutch.

Please provide real data from Ford backin up your statement. I appreciate what you're saying. Furthermore, it makes complete sense. However, I need someone to look at their clutch and confirm it for me to take it as gospel. If anyone has a GT that would suffice as well. Or if you could provide the information in a Ford manual; that would work too. I know all data doesn't specify; because I looked.
 

JB

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Please provide real data from Ford backin up your statement. I appreciate what you're saying. Furthermore, it makes complete sense. However, I need someone to look at their clutch and confirm it for me to take it as gospel. If anyone has a GT that would suffice as well. Or if you could provide the information in a Ford manual; that would work too. I know all data doesn't specify; because I looked.



:bored:

OK, I'll bite but my time is valuable and I'm not gonna find supporting documentation for you. Take it or leave it.

I'm not blowing smoke about OEM setups. Been common for about 20 years, I'd say.

I also know what these particular cars are like from the factory. Automatic adjuster can't tell how much clearance there is; It just uses spring pressure to push bearing till it hits and then ratchet gear quadrant holds it there until next time it adjusts.



Most people with manual adjuster set theirs to be minimally gapped but some do keep it spinning. I think most aftermarket companies urge you to leave a gap with their products.

As Fred said, many use a return spring like the LDC to keep TOB clear (RIP, Dan)

If it is resting *lightly* against the PP as the stock self-adjuster places it, there won't be enough pressure to depress the fingers and start disengagement. If using a manual to keep it in contact, care must be taken not to go too far or it will cause the problem you described.

I always advise setting adjustment when everything is fully warmed-up, to take thermal expansion into account...



.
 
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JPB

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JB,

Thank you for taking the time to explain. Also, I can understand why there wouldn't be any data readily available as well. The factory wouldn't put it in their manuals because there is nothing for the technicians to adjust manually since the factory uses an automatic spring type adjuster. My buddy just checked his 02 GT and confirmed the TOB is spinning. Spec also suggested keeping the tob in contact with the fingers. McCleod (whom I have) said there needed to be a .100"-.300" gap. I never set mine that far away. I did just now adjust mine again. I ran it down until the tob began to spin. Took several times getting up and down of course. I also worked the clutch after each adjustment before crawling under the car and checking it. Since mine is a firewall adjuster I think I'm going to back it off one more click but I'm going to go with that I think.

Again thank you for the help.

Justin
 

JB

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......I can understand why there wouldn't be any data readily available as well. The factory wouldn't put it in their manuals because there is nothing for the technicians to adjust manually since the factory uses an automatic spring type adjuster.

You got it, my friend. I had the same thought last night but never made it back here to edit/add.


Again thank you for the help
........Justin

You're more than welcome! :beer:

It's gratifying when someone 'gets it' and the Thank You is always appreciated, especially since so many seem to have poor manners these days.
 

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