Spit plug

[SVTerror]

My cobra spit/spat a plug out in #4 :nonono:. I read through the other threads about spark plugs blowing out. I was considering purchasing a time sert kit #5553 ($370 ish) because lock n stitich wanted $240 ish to rent it for 3 days and thought I might as well spend a few extra dollars incase it happens in the future.

Here is my question:
I believe the time sert kit #5553 comes with carbon steel inserts. Is carbon steel good enough? Or should I be getting Aluminum inserts because of the heat transfer rates? (since our heads are made of aluminum)

 

[Monster Mach]

Either is fine.. but mac tools comes with a kit that is amazing.. guides everything.. its less expensive too.. go to your local dealer and get the local mac guys number

This is here just to piss you off

 

[SVTerror]

Hmmm...I looked at that part just now and it doesn't seem to have a insert like the time sert or lock n stitch has (unless I'm looking at the wrong one MAC part # PE39200
). I already got the spark plug out and the coil is not broken nor is the spark plug missing any pieces off of it so I think my engine is safe.

I just want to make sure that carbon steel insert temperature won't affect the the spark plugs, and if it does then I will spend extra $ which I rather not...but will to get the aluminum inserts. My budget is tight right now but wanted it fixed right and not have to worry about it because it's my DD right now.

 

[Jad G]

I got the lock-n-stitch aluminum inserts in my heads on my last rebuild, 9 full threads as far as I could count, looks like 10, and the aluminum seems more robust than the factory threads. I would use these again.

 

[SVTerror]

I got the lock-n-stitch aluminum inserts in my heads on my last rebuild, 9 full threads as far as I could count, looks like 10, and the aluminum seems more robust than the factory threads. I would use these again.

How long ago did you get it done? Have you had any problems since?

I'm still debating if I should rent or buy...I'm just affraid down the road another one will pop lol.

 

[Jad G]

Honestly I just reassembled the motor a few days ago and have yet to fire it, and yes i know that proves little as to the reliability of these, but I am a ME and I have some working knowledge of strengths of materials and with more than double the threads and the way they machined my heads, installed and pinned the inserts, as well as the physical characteristics of the aluminum material , I have no worries they will hold up to anything I can do to them. I would strongly consider them, and if you do a search on lock-n-stitch inserts here in the forums, you will find more info on them and make an informed decision. I believe this is the method ford uses to repair heads in this situation.

EDIT: I believe its best to do them all at once since, now that the spark plugs are contacting more threads it changes the heat transfer characteristics. I would venture to say having all spark plug threads identical would be an advantage, and the cost of the tool is one time, where you'd only need 7 more inserts to finish them all, and if you buy it, you can charge others to do their heads if you wish and get good at it

 

[SVTerror]

Honestly I just reassembled the motor a few days ago and have yet to fire it, and yes i know that proves little as to the reliability of these, but I am a ME and I have some working knowledge of strengths of materials and with more than double the threads and the way they machined my heads, installed and pinned the inserts, as well as the physical characteristics of the aluminum material , I have no worries they will hold up to anything I can do to them. I would strongly consider them, and if you do a search on lock-n-stitch inserts here in the forums, you will find more info on them and make an informed decision. I believe this is the method ford uses to repair heads in this situation.

EDIT: I believe its best to do them all at once since, now that the spark plugs are contacting more threads it changes the heat transfer characteristics. I would venture to say having all spark plug threads identical would be an advantage, and the cost of the tool is one time, where you'd only need 7 more inserts to finish them all, and if you buy it, you can charge others to do their heads if you wish and get good at it

Thank you for the info. I think I will be buying it and will be changing all 8 of them. Sounds like a better idea for me to buy it and fix them all with aluminum inserts. Thanks again.

 

[Driver500]

I went with the aluminum insert because of the different expansion rates of dissimilar metals.

 

[SVTerror]

I just wanted to bring this thread up again because my time-sert kit arrived. I wanted to do this job with the head still on which can be done but I have a question about using grease to capture the pieces of aluminum. The instructions says to apply thick grease while carving the head out, then eventually apply loctite to the aluminum insert and put it in. Does the grease affect the loctite's properties from keeping the insert in place?

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

I just wanted to bring this thread up again because my time-sert kit arrived. I wanted to do this job with the head still on which can be done but I have a question about using grease to capture the pieces of aluminum. The instructions says to apply thick grease while carving the head out, then eventually apply loctite to the aluminum insert and put it in. Does the grease affect the loctite's properties from keeping the insert in place?

I would assume that company is giving correct advice, but I wanted to let you know about a trick, that a couple engine builders I knew used to use on Iron headed engines that had spark plug thread issues.

Obviously Iron shavings are much worse to be ingested by an engine than soft aluminum. Either would best not have shavings dropped in, and this does work for both, I mentioned the Iron because it is a worse case scenario.

My friend used to use foamy shaving cream.
He would bring the cylinder up near top dead center and fill it with foamy, then he would tap the threads.
After he was dome making metal shavings he used a strong shop vac and vacuumed out the foamy and ALL THE SHAVINGS.

It worked every time and he never had any wall damage on any engine he repaired that way.

BTW I like the do them all and do them in Aluminum idea also.

 

[SVTerror]

Jimmy that is a good idea and a great piece of advice. I think I will go with your advice. Thanks!:beer: