Steeda 2015 Mustang IRS Bushing Support System

[EditorTurner]

Hop Stoppers
Steeda’s new IRS bushing support system reduces S550 wheel hop
By Steve Turner
Photos courtesy of Steeda Autosports

Admit it, we were all a little concerned that the arrival of an independent rear suspension under the hindquarters of the 2015 Mustang. It feels great on the street and the road course, but would it hold up to drag strip launches? Well, it hasn’t been all bad, but it could always be better, and Steeda Autosports has developed a clever product that reduces wheel hop by securing the IRS subframe—its IRS Subframe Bushing Support System (PN 555-4437; $134.95).
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[RSKtakR]

pretty SURE I will be picking this up..

 

[Choking_Victim]

Anyone order these yet ?

 

[heatsoaked12]

After installing Steeda lowers on my 12 gt500 with a promise of eliminating wheel hop with no increase in nvh and still having bad wheel hop/vibrations throughout the car, I wouldn't buy anything Steeda.

 

[Choking_Victim]

Curious, for the price it's not a deal breaker....item is currently on backorder due to selling out. Which means someone has to have some feedback once installed.

 

[RSKtakR]

I was reading the comments on the youtube video, and the driver that made the video is posting and states :



I'm the driver, the launch was the exact same, 2000 rpm let the clutch go and kick and pull. It's a night and day difference launching the car with and without these spacers. Scott

I've launched it much harder than that but it's pointless on a cold street. Unfortunately with a tire like a Nitto 555R they start to spin with increased RPM. Wheel hop is almost all gone with just these inserts. Once you add the remaining parts of our rear suspension the entire unit works so much better. Those will be released later this week. I'm a drag racer and trust me, I know you need more RPM if you're strictly doing 1/4 mile testing. But remember the testing surface. This was on a closed street, not the drag strip. Temps were in the mid 40's so traction itself was hard. I kept it at 2000 rpms because it was enough RPM to get a good launch with the Nitto tires without too much wheel speed which would result in instant spin.

 

[RSKtakR]

I just ordered the newest version of these (Steeda has included two more bushings now), should be here next week. So after I pick up some BMR front/rear sway bar kit, Eibach Pro-Kit springs, Steeda extreme G-trac subframe brace, and Steeda billet aluminum rear links, this car should be pretty tight. I wish a good set of adjustable shocks/struts were available for these cars so I could throw those on as well, I'm not a fan of coil overs or I would get those instead. Only other mods so far are a K&N drop in with the Airaid CAI intake tube, tune and MBRP Race catback exhaust.

 

[Dcrypter]

I just ordered the newest version of these (Steeda has included two more bushings now), should be here next week. So after I pick up some BMR front/rear sway bar kit, Eibach Pro-Kit springs, Steeda extreme G-trac subframe brace, and Steeda billet aluminum rear links, this car should be pretty tight. I wish a good set of adjustable shocks/struts were available for these cars so I could throw those on as well, I'm not a fan of coil overs or I would get those instead. Only other mods so far are a K&N drop in with the Airaid CAI intake tube, tune and MBRP Race catback exhaust.

Any reason you aren't doing Steeda's front and rear sway bars?

 

[RSKtakR]

Price and the BMR's already have an anodized mounting block and the Steeda's don't it seems.

 

[RSKtakR]

Well I tried to install these today, and all I can say is that these are a HORRIBLE HORRIBLE design.. whoemever decided that it would be a good idea to make the pieces that have the screws in them out of aluminum should be die a slow death. You get one screw in on one side and you cant get the other in, so you loosen the side you got in and the other screw still doesn't go in, so you take the one screw you got in out and get the 2nd screw in well then guess what? You cant get the 1st screw back in!! I have to say that this was the WORST $145 I have ever spent on a car part. All of the other pieces went it easily so they are installed and I just didn't install the two pieces that have screws in them as I fought with just one side for 4 hours and finally got sick of it. These two pieces should have a ball and socket design so that they get a nice and snug hole alignment when they are put together so the screws don't strip out the aluminum threads trying to get these sloppy things together, and they should be made out of steel. I wouldn't recommend these. I have installed most ALL of my own parts on my toys cars over the years so its not like this the first time I have had tools in my hands either... ridiculous.