Subframe Connector Questions

Sn8kebitten

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I really want to purchase some full length subframe connectors to stiffen up my Cobra. I was looking at these from American Muscle.

SR Performance Mustang Full Length Subframe Connectors (79-04) at AmericanMuscle.com 2155B86 - Free Shipping!

All the reviews are good. But in the description it says "The 1996-1998 SVT Cobras will require modifications to the transmission cross-member mounting flanges for proper installation."

So my question is, do all subframe connectors for Cobra's need modification to the flanges? And if so, what kind of modification?
 

98fourvalve

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It varies depending on which subframes you buy. However, based on those I can tell you what they need modified. I had the Maximum motorsports ones on mine and it's the same design.

The 96-98 have a bolt in flange that is bolted to the frame and the crossmember is then bolted to it. What you modify is the bolted in flanges. You cut them to be even with the standard subframe that is on the car. Then weld them. Then install subframe connectors and reweld. The reason you cut them is because they have overlap that would not allow the subframe connectors to be installed flat.

I can get you a picture if you'd like. Probably tomorrow if it doesn't rain.
 
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Cobra_Kid

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Look at global west subs. Put them on my 98 snake.... No mods and probably some of the strongest subs on the market.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
 

Sn8kebitten

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Just looked them up. They aren't too much more expensive. But I didn't know there was a difference between coupe and convertible subs
 

mustang3X

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Round tubes are superior to square tubes in this type of application. There is a reason roll cages and race car frames are round tube.

Despite the marketing hype, the only reason you see square ones on the market is they are cheaper to make (funny that they aren't cheaper to buy, imagine that). Doesn't mean square tube doesn't stiffen the car but since the cost and installation are similar why not get the superior shape.

The global west are the way the go. If you need more info do some searching on the properties of square vs. round tubing.
 

2DXTRM

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I wouldnt call those Full length, those SR brand from American Muscle.
Look at the customer pics, they're just standard length.

Full length are the ones from say Steeda or Maximum Motorsports.
 

Sn8kebitten

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Oh okay thank guys. I really like the ones from global west. I think I'll go with those how much does a shop usually charge to weld them up?
 

Shake&Bake

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Look at global west subs. Put them on my 98 snake.... No mods and probably some of the strongest subs on the market.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

These don't look like full lengths? You know what they say, every inch counts...
 

98fourvalve

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Oh yeah a picture would be great lol Thanks for the info.

Check out page 5 of this. It's maximums instructions whcih go into detail about the slight modifications needed.
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/content/install/pdf/chass_stiff/MMFL-5.pdf


About the global west ones, if I were paying that kind of money, I'd do it right and get a griggs racing full frame kit and be done with it.
However for pretty much any stang the Maximum full lengths do the job perfectly while being cheap.
In the spring my car is getting the subframes replaced for a frame kit with a torque arm and watts link.
 
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Cobra_Kid

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I had mine welded up for around $75. It's been awhile now so it's hard to remember. You won't be disappointed with the GW subs.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
 

J.Rovirosa

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Global West here, no mods needed to the crossmember. Only reason I didn't go with the Griggs kit was that I didn't want to go through the floor, but it seems like a really stout setup.
 

Sn8kebitten

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Hmm when I try to go to Griggs website it says the account has been suspended. But the reason I want one without any modification needed is because there aren't any shops around here (rural Kentucky) that I would trust to do anything more than the basic welds as I am not a welder or I would do it. The Global west is only like $40 more than the SR from AmericanMuscle and it's tubular so that seems like the best way to go for me
 

deadernie

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I had the full Kenny Brown kit (sub-frame connectors, jacking rails, and matrix braces) put on my car. Feels stiffer, fewer squeaks and rattles and since my car is lowered, jacking rails are pretty damn convenient.
 

scottg

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I got the maximum motorsports xl full length subframes on my 96 convertible and they are great. Where in KY are you? Speedy's (Greg) in Owensboro did mine for me. You can always trust MM.
 

epracmetcon

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Get the MM xl full length ones. You can pick up the unpainted ones for around $100.00.

Cost me about $70.00 to have mine welded and they even painted them.
 

Sn8kebitten

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I got the maximum motorsports xl full length subframes on my 96 convertible and they are great. Where in KY are you? Speedy's (Greg) in Owensboro did mine for me. You can always trust MM.
I live in far western Kentucky (Graves county). Owensboro is about a 2 and a half hour drive but it might be worth it to go to a real shop for once lol.

Get the MM xl full length ones. You can pick up the unpainted ones for around $100.00.

Cost me about $70.00 to have mine welded and they even painted them.

So with these MM connectors, i wouldnt have to have the trans stuff messed with? MM Full Length Subframe Connectors, 1979-04, bare [MMFL-5B] : Maximum Motorsports, the Latemodel Mustang Performance Suspension Leader!
 

Shake&Bake

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SKMCOBRA

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I have had Steeda's tubular sf connectors on mine for about 7 years. They aren't full length but they are definately strong. I bought the cross braces with them. I am not sure they still sell them anymore. They are welded in and since they didn't go all the way up front, no tranny issues. I have drag raced and road raced this car quite a bit and they are holding up just fine.
 

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