Suspension Opinions

Hourigan218

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I too want to lower the car but have a few questions. First I dont track the car and drag every blue moon but want a sharp and aggressive handling car. Are UCA necessary to lower? I know LCA, relocation brackets and adjustable panhard bar an springs. A little help as im new to the suspension area.
 

PowerWheels

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From reading here the UCA will let you adjust pinion angle after you lower the car.
 

OaktownACE

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From reading here the UCA will let you adjust pinion angle after you lower the car.

It all depends on what springs you run. For me, with the Frpp L springs, my uca is exactly the same length as the stock arm and my pinion angle is -1.5. So for my uses, I probably didn't need to change it out.

Where a new uca can help is with wheel hop issues given the difference in compliance between the rubber stock bushings and the poly aftermarket. That said, some people seem very happy without doing the uca and since you aren't dragging the car, you would likely not need to swap it out if you didn't do a radical drop.

The uca and mount are a bit of a hornets nest. If done right it can be fantastic, or if not it is a real pita. In hindsight I would not have changed mine out.
 

Hourigan218

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It all depends on what springs you run. For me, with the Frpp L springs, my uca is exactly the same length as the stock arm and my pinion angle is -1.5. So for my uses, I probably didn't need to change it out.

Where a new uca can help is with wheel hop issues given the difference in compliance between the rubber stock bushings and the poly aftermarket. That said, some people seem very happy without doing the uca and since you aren't dragging the car, you would likely not need to swap it out if you didn't do a radical drop.

The uca and mount are a bit of a hornets nest. If done right it can be fantastic, or if not it is a real pita. In hindsight I would not have changed mine out.



Thats what I was thinking. I am going with the ford springs so I guess just the springs, lca, relocation brackets, and afjustable panhard bar. Thanks you all. Ohh and I am running the shelby cs1 wheels with 315 nt05 in the back
 
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PowerWheels

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Has anyone done this?

FRPP springs, adjustable panhard and relocation brackets only.

It seems that the pinion could be off a hair, but I would think this would be minor with the FRPP springs. No bushing issues, lowered, corrected LCA angle....

What are your thoughts?
 
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BMR Tech

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Has anyone done this?

FRPP springs, adjustable panhard and relocation brackets only.

It seems that the pinion could be off a hair, but I would think this would be minor with the FRPP springs. No bushing issues.

What are your thoughts?

I've got thousands of customers running that combination of parts.

It is somewhat similar to our LSP001 Lowering Spring Package---- Springs, Panhard Bar, New USM Mounts, and LCA Brackets.

That said, I am really a fan of adjusting/setting proper pinion angle on these 13/14's with that CF Driveshaft. I am also a proponent of squaring up the thrust angle as well with adjustable LCA. Occasionally, you can get your thrust angle zeroed out, or close, with the PHR adjustment, though.
 

PowerWheels

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How far off would the pinion possibly be doing this? and what is the thrust angle? PHR?

Sorry, still learning.....
 

BMR Tech

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It's hard to say. The best thing to do, if you are trying to learn...is to measure the pinion flange before and after you lower the car.

Thrust angle is basically the squareness of the vehicle (wheels)

thrustangle_v2.jpg


If you adjust (lengthen/shorten) the PHR while the car is on the alignment rack / lift, you will see the effects of the PHR length in relation to the thrust angle.

The best way to ensure the car is "square" - or, zero thrust angle...is to set the PHR to center the chassis of the car onto the axle, and use adjustable LCA to set thrust angle.

Often times, even on a stock car, getting the thrust angle zeroed....results in the axle sitting to the left within the chassis. This is why you will see many OEM vehicles "needing" an adjustable panhard bar, when the car is bone stock.
 

PowerWheels

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So the thrust angle can't be entirely corrected with just the PHR? I'd think if the wheels are even left to right you would be good.

I'm not sure what would cause a thrust angle change with just a spring, phr, relocation bracket only mod. If the thrust angle is withing spec stock, why would lowering using these parts and then adjusting the PHR back to the same left to right axle location cause any change in thrust angle? I'd think the change would be exactly zero. It seems most here use an adjustable PHR and fixed LCA's and they aren't having an issue. I would think using the stock fixed UCA wouldn't have anything to do with thrust angle changing, only pinion.

Does this make any sense?

And 1 more question, are people changing the bumpstops with the FRPP spring change?
 
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VFORCEJOHN

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Explain to me the benefit of having the lower LCA brackets??

My car is not lowered. would I benefit from them?

is it just better to get a further torque angle this way the lower holds better?
 

BMR Tech

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So the thrust angle can't be entirely corrected with just the PHR? I'd think if the wheels are even left to right you would be good.

I'm not sure what would cause a thrust angle change with just a spring, phr, relocation bracket only mod. If the thrust angle is withing spec stock, why would lowering using these parts and then adjusting the PHR back to the same left to right axle location cause any change in thrust angle? I'd think the change would be exactly zero. It seems most here use an adjustable PHR and fixed LCA's and they aren't having an issue. I would think using the stock fixed UCA wouldn't have anything to do with thrust angle changing, only pinion.

Does this make any sense?

And 1 more question, are people changing the bumpstops with the FRPP spring change?

Moving the relationship of the axle and the chassis - from side to side, will cause thrust angle change.

Spec for S197 thrust angle is .50 to -.50

Most OEM S197's will fall between 0 and .25.

You don't see people having "issues" simply because they are not throwing the thrust angle off enough to cause a change in the steering (straight ahead on the road) and they are likely still within "spec".

Performance-wise, having the thrust angle to zero will result in the most predictable driving conditions, and help with contact patch consistency. In the grand scheme of things, we are splitting hairs here.

Explain to me the benefit of having the lower LCA brackets??

My car is not lowered. would I benefit from them?

is it just better to get a further torque angle this way the lower holds better?

If your LCA are perfectly level, or SLIGHTLY down on the axle end, then I suggest using an upper control arm mount that has a lower mounting position of about 1/2" to 3/4" lower than the OEM position.

If your LCA are higher at the axle side, like 0 to 3/4".... then I recommend using LCA Brackets in the first/top position.

If your LCA are higher at the axle side, by >3/4"....then I recommend using LCA Brackets AND the BMR UCA Mount, in the upper position (our UCA Mount is designed for use with our LCA Brackets - as we raise the UCA mounting point slightly, compared to OEM).
 

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