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2011-2014 Mustangs
Driveline/Suspension
Suspension questions - LCA brackets/PHR & lowering springs
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<blockquote data-quote="Coz" data-source="post: 15783607" data-attributes="member: 184704"><p>There are no absolutes but the aftermarket springs are not orders of magnitude stiffer than the OEM units, especially on a 2013-14 GT which had stiffer springs than earlier S197s. Therefore, any "balance" changes are minimal. Plus, if you don't like how it feels, it is easy to swap out the springs again. You would be fine leaving the Konis on.</p><p></p><p>I have a 2014 A6 GT just I put my Koni Yellows and Roush springs on the back first because I could do it with just a floor jack and jack stands. I used it for about 2-3 months that way until I could get some time on a friend's lift to do the fronts. I installed the Steeda HD mounts at that time too. I am running with -1.5 degrees of camber for better handling at the track.</p><p></p><p>I had no problem and even took it to the track for a Hooked on Driving session at NJMP. It was an improvement over the stock rear suspension even without the LCA relocation brackets. I did not take it to the dragstrip during this time.</p><p></p><p>After I was done with all the suspension work, including CHE relocation brackets and Whiteline panhard bar, I took it to the strip at MIR on a very cool early December day. I had my friends Nitto 555R drag radials on 20" wheels and a Bama V2 93 Octane Race tune, and a K&N drop in filter. I did 12.51 @ 112.1. Hooked great with just a short non-water burnout. No wheel hop at all. Of course having an automatic with 3.15 rear gears instead of a 6-speed with 3.73's may account for the lack of wheel hop too.</p><p></p><p>Most people that go to strip will add LCA relocation brackets to lower the back of the LCAs.</p><p></p><p>Here is something from sur_real1 in another thread that is a pretty good summary.</p><p></p><p>"Lower control arm adjustment:</p><p>This really comes down to your driving style. With the LCA's facing</p><p>down towards the front and up towards the rear, you'll get more wheel</p><p>spin when launching and turns may feel tighter, but control may be</p><p>unpredictable at the limit. With the LCA's facing the opposite direction,</p><p>launches at the drag strip will be better as the suspension on the rear</p><p>will be loading up and pushing the car up in the rear and forward. For</p><p>daily driving, or open track, I have come to understand that the more</p><p>level the LCA's are, the happier you'll be."</p><p></p><p><a href="https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/suspension-thoughts-and-suggestions.1134633/#post-15546235" target="_blank">https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/suspension-thoughts-and-suggestions.1134633/#post-15546235</a></p><p></p><p>I picked the CHE relocation brackets for two reasons. They are exceptionally beefy and do not hang as low as others such as BMR brackets that have 3 adjustment settings. The CHE brackets took me from moderately high in the back to slightly lower in the back. This suits me fine since I prefer better handling on a road course than traction at the strip. Nevertheless as I mentioned earlier, no problem with traction with the drag radials. Earlier this year I ran the car on a hot June day at Maple Grove Raceway with my street tires (Conti ExtremeSport DW 285/40/18) and ran a 12.76 with very little tire spin and no wheel hop.</p><p></p><p>With a 1.5" drop using the springs you have, I'm not certain the CHE brackets will be enough to drop the rear of your LCA's much below level. The adjustable 3-position relocation brackets will give you the option to change your settings to suit your car and to change from street, to strip, or road course settings. </p><p></p><p>I have not experienced any bumpsteer and therefore have not needed to install a bumpsteer kit on the tie rods. A more aggressive drop in the front may result in the need for these. Everything affects everything else and you'll have no problem making your head explode with various "what if I do this and this" scenarios. Lol.</p><p></p><p>After my suspension mods I upgraded my front brakes to the 14" 4-piston Brembo setup and the rear to the 13.8" GT500 rotor (uses stock caliper but requires a new mounting bracket). You won't need this if you are not taking it on a road course. For autocross I would definitely get better pads and change your brake fluid to a high performance DOT 3 fluid such as Ford PM-1-C High Performance DOT-3 fluid or better yet a DOT 4 fluid such as Motul RBF600 (more expensive and should be flushed every 12-18 months).</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Coz, post: 15783607, member: 184704"] There are no absolutes but the aftermarket springs are not orders of magnitude stiffer than the OEM units, especially on a 2013-14 GT which had stiffer springs than earlier S197s. Therefore, any "balance" changes are minimal. Plus, if you don't like how it feels, it is easy to swap out the springs again. You would be fine leaving the Konis on. I have a 2014 A6 GT just I put my Koni Yellows and Roush springs on the back first because I could do it with just a floor jack and jack stands. I used it for about 2-3 months that way until I could get some time on a friend's lift to do the fronts. I installed the Steeda HD mounts at that time too. I am running with -1.5 degrees of camber for better handling at the track. I had no problem and even took it to the track for a Hooked on Driving session at NJMP. It was an improvement over the stock rear suspension even without the LCA relocation brackets. I did not take it to the dragstrip during this time. After I was done with all the suspension work, including CHE relocation brackets and Whiteline panhard bar, I took it to the strip at MIR on a very cool early December day. I had my friends Nitto 555R drag radials on 20" wheels and a Bama V2 93 Octane Race tune, and a K&N drop in filter. I did 12.51 @ 112.1. Hooked great with just a short non-water burnout. No wheel hop at all. Of course having an automatic with 3.15 rear gears instead of a 6-speed with 3.73's may account for the lack of wheel hop too. Most people that go to strip will add LCA relocation brackets to lower the back of the LCAs. Here is something from sur_real1 in another thread that is a pretty good summary. "Lower control arm adjustment: This really comes down to your driving style. With the LCA's facing down towards the front and up towards the rear, you'll get more wheel spin when launching and turns may feel tighter, but control may be unpredictable at the limit. With the LCA's facing the opposite direction, launches at the drag strip will be better as the suspension on the rear will be loading up and pushing the car up in the rear and forward. For daily driving, or open track, I have come to understand that the more level the LCA's are, the happier you'll be." [URL]https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/suspension-thoughts-and-suggestions.1134633/#post-15546235[/URL] I picked the CHE relocation brackets for two reasons. They are exceptionally beefy and do not hang as low as others such as BMR brackets that have 3 adjustment settings. The CHE brackets took me from moderately high in the back to slightly lower in the back. This suits me fine since I prefer better handling on a road course than traction at the strip. Nevertheless as I mentioned earlier, no problem with traction with the drag radials. Earlier this year I ran the car on a hot June day at Maple Grove Raceway with my street tires (Conti ExtremeSport DW 285/40/18) and ran a 12.76 with very little tire spin and no wheel hop. With a 1.5" drop using the springs you have, I'm not certain the CHE brackets will be enough to drop the rear of your LCA's much below level. The adjustable 3-position relocation brackets will give you the option to change your settings to suit your car and to change from street, to strip, or road course settings. I have not experienced any bumpsteer and therefore have not needed to install a bumpsteer kit on the tie rods. A more aggressive drop in the front may result in the need for these. Everything affects everything else and you'll have no problem making your head explode with various "what if I do this and this" scenarios. Lol. After my suspension mods I upgraded my front brakes to the 14" 4-piston Brembo setup and the rear to the 13.8" GT500 rotor (uses stock caliper but requires a new mounting bracket). You won't need this if you are not taking it on a road course. For autocross I would definitely get better pads and change your brake fluid to a high performance DOT 3 fluid such as Ford PM-1-C High Performance DOT-3 fluid or better yet a DOT 4 fluid such as Motul RBF600 (more expensive and should be flushed every 12-18 months). [/QUOTE]
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Suspension questions - LCA brackets/PHR & lowering springs
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